Touchstone Wall IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b

 
  • Currently 0.0/5
Search
Go

Cerberus Gendarme


Zion National Park, Utah, USA


Trip Report
Schools out... Going To Zion!!!!! +VIDEO!!!
Thursday December 25, 2014 10:05pm
Credit: whitemeat

So, my sending partner comes home for winter break and we have plans ready in minutes! I skip friday to drive out to Zion! I wanted to try big walls on sand stone and see how they were compared to granite... BETTER!!!

So, the drive...
car is packed for ZION!!!
car is packed for ZION!!!
Credit: whitemeat

Quick stop in baker for the mad greek cafe!

YESSSS
YESSSS
Credit: whitemeat

And when we arrive, we rack up for our first wall/climb in zion, TOUCHSTONE!!

Credit: whitemeat

And we are off, It took us 7 hours and was way too cool, I took the first 4 and max took us to the top!

ready to crush
ready to crush
Credit: whitemeat

pitch 2
pitch 2
Credit: whitemeat

Darkmeat is stoked!!!
Darkmeat is stoked!!!
Credit: whitemeat
These splitters are COOL!!!
Credit: whitemeat

that ledge is NICE!
that ledge is NICE!
Credit: whitemeat

OOGGHH
OOGGHH
Credit: whitemeat

dance party selfie while i am jugging
dance party selfie while i am jugging
Credit: whitemeat

Next we have a cragging day that starts with cave route to warm up, then squeeze play, cherry crack, then finished it up with headache crack... HEADACHE WAS GOOOOOD!!

Credit: whitemeat

o yea baby!
o yea baby!
Credit: whitemeat
SPLITTER
Credit: whitemeat

trying to warm my fingers by putting them in my mouth!!
trying to warm my fingers by putting them in my mouth!!
Credit: whitemeat

Credit: whitemeat

time to go get in n out!!!
time to go get in n out!!!
Credit: whitemeat

I then ate 3 double doubles that night at in n out! it was reallllllllly really gooooood!!!!!

YUM!!!!!!!!
YUM!!!!!!!!
Credit: whitemeat

It was the moonlight day! we picked the climb because it was going to be our last wall and moonlight buttress is supposed to be great... it was! but we didn't get to top it out! We got to the top of pitch 7 in about 5-6 hours... it was really really fun, just leapfrogging purple totem cams up the perfect splitters that never ended! it started to sprincle though, it then turned to light rain.. thinking of people saying that the rock turns to mud and the anchors turn to sh#t, we played it safe and bailed so we wouldn't get caught in a big storm and have to die! Next time we will send it!

making oatmeal in the car...

Credit: whitemeat

pitch 2
pitch 2
Credit: whitemeat

pitch 4 corner is sooooo NICE!!
pitch 4 corner is sooooo NICE!!
Credit: whitemeat

FISH ROCKS!!!!!!!!
FISH ROCKS!!!!!!!!
Credit: whitemeat

Credit: whitemeat

splitter!!!
splitter!!!
Credit: whitemeat

so dang fun
so dang fun
Credit: whitemeat

Credit: whitemeat

PLEASE BIG WALLERS.. DONT LEAVE YOUR CIG BUTTS ON THESE RAD CLIFFS.
Credit: whitemeat

fun boulder
fun boulder
Credit: whitemeat

Now it was back to vegas to meet up with dave and erik. We ended up climbing unimpeachable groping. a super classic 5.10 sport climb that was super cool.

back of the truck ready to send!
back of the truck ready to send!
Credit: whitemeat

Credit: whitemeat

approaching the climb
approaching the climb
Credit: whitemeat

climbing the tree to clip bolt 1
climbing the tree to clip bolt 1
Credit: whitemeat

dave pulling the roof
dave pulling the roof
Credit: whitemeat

max leading pitch 2
max leading pitch 2
Credit: whitemeat

dave cruising
dave cruising
Credit: whitemeat

me on the last pitch
me on the last pitch
Credit: whitemeat

max leading pitch 2
max leading pitch 2
Credit: whitemeat

Credit: whitemeat

on ze top
on ze top
Credit: whitemeat


OOOGGGHHH
OOOGGGHHH
Credit: whitemeat

Now, if you want to check out the video, please do! Pretty cool, i guess :)




Zion was so cool and can't wait for the next trip! stay tuned folks, winter break aint over yet!


Happy Xmas!!!

  Trip Report Views: 3,109
whitemeat
About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
  Dec 25, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
Because of the kids like you I haven't lost faith in the future of humanity.

Thank you for sharing your adventures with us.

Keep it up, youngsters!

Moose
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
  Dec 25, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
Well that was awesome
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Dec 26, 2014 - 03:12am PT
the Greyer set says
Damn good stuff and good on YA!!
MERRY CHRISTMAS!
thank you for posting and climbing and having
FUN!!
Tell us of the suffering, a bit of the smell of dirty socks, for contrast to hi- light the highs you need a low for the offset or foil.c?

Oh wait my wife pointed out that you were sucking P.B.R. s!!
It looked like first thing in the morning!

She was angry when I pointed out it was a poser can, for the photo stoke,
the can was not cracked!
she said. . .
" Not yet, they'll get to it!"
We disagree, I think that she has gone soft, she thinks it is me. We but both loved the Trip report! the tail gate shot brought back great memories.
She claims that I should shower you with
praise for the cigarettes awareness comment!
(she is again a vegan but BITD when she was getting it done, she at "Gunks" burgers too)
That counts as suffering or at least dirt bagging with a nod to history.
Following in the foot steps And the budget of all the Dirt Kings going back to the beginning!!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Dec 26, 2014 - 03:46am PT
"Pretty cool," all right--and right nifty.

I watched the video in slowed-down speed so as to keep up!

"awesome"
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Dec 26, 2014 - 05:54am PT
Whitemeat strikes again,
way to go dudes!
TFPU
Tad
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 26, 2014 - 06:57am PT
thanks dudes!

Gnome Ofthe Diabase....

You want to hear the suffering? well, the drive back from vegas was long and brutal, took most of the day and it was just boring! also, We both smelt like a couple dudes that have been climbing for a while with no shower! who woulda guessed!

the most suffering though, When I climbed cave crack, it was really cold and the first route of the day, I jammed my toes and worked my fingers, so when i came down And put on my warm gloves on my cold worked fingers and took off my climbing shoes of my cold jammed toes, SCREAMING BARFIES! it was the worst I have ever had, SO BAD!!!

As for the PBR question...

Your wife was most certainly correct! darkmeat likes beer and was about to crack it open but wanted a pic so he set it on the tailgate! And, it was like 8:30PM!!!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Dec 26, 2014 - 07:39am PT
Thanks for the TR!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Dec 26, 2014 - 07:55am PT
Whitemeat is living the dream.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Dec 26, 2014 - 08:00am PT
Awesome visit to Zion, whitemeat! Some classics ticked. The cragging at ceberus is world class. Too bad touchstone isn't as good as those base routes! How did moonlight compare? Solid work bud
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Dec 26, 2014 - 08:05am PT
Cool report/pics guys!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The real McCoy from the inside of my van.
  Dec 26, 2014 - 08:15am PT
Great share yet again whitemeat! Unbridled enthusiasm for this strange activity we are all hooked on always works for me. Cheers!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
  Dec 26, 2014 - 08:30am PT
You are living the life that dreams are made of!
Keep enjoying....stay injury free and have a blast!


Susan
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
  Dec 26, 2014 - 09:55am PT
White and Dark meat...Groping....what's not to love? ;-)

You guys are definitely sonic youth!!

Happy New Year
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Dec 26, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
Another great TR guys - thanks for posting - and thanks for the Vance Joy introduction!
SeaToSky

Mountain climber
Fresno, CA
  Dec 26, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
Nice work, fellas! Part of what I like about this Supertopo forum is the great trip reports. Thanks for contributing!

Warmly,
joe
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Dec 28, 2014 - 08:14am PT
Nice work guys! Way to get in some great climbing before the rain arrived! And thanks for setting a good example to others in bailing from Moonlight, and leaving the sandstone until it has a chance to dry off. Very cool video, Mickey!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 29, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
Hells yeah meat livin the dream!!!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Dec 29, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
awesome. Makes me miss my partner.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Dec 29, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
Getting after it!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Dec 29, 2014 - 07:09pm PT
OMG! Whitemeat wins me over. all in all awesome and the best is:

it started to sprincle though, it then turned to light rain.. thinking of people saying that the rock turns to mud and the anchors turn to sh#t, we played it safe and bailed so we wouldn't get caught in a big storm and have to die! Next time we will send it!
Oso Flaco

Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
  Dec 29, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
Mickey, Awesome photos and trip report! Awesome shots by Eric too! Thank you guys for keeping the stoke alive! Those splitters are calling my name...
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Dec 29, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
Way good lads and nice pics too.....Thanx for sharing your trip....

Stevo
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 29, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
Dug it. That tree-climb start looks fun!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Dec 29, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
PBR sighting
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Dec 29, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
Nice work meat boys. Thanks for picking up the trash and for making the right call when the weather went south.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Cerberus Gendarme - Touchstone Wall IV/V 5.10 C1 or 5.13b - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
Other Routes on Cerberus Gendarme
Cerberus Gendarme - Cave Crack 5.7 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Cave Crack, 5.7
Cerberus Gendarme
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cerberus Gendarme - Cynthia's Hand Job II 5.10 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Cynthia's Hand Job, II 5.10
Cerberus Gendarme
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cerberus Gendarme - Cherry Crack I 5.10 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Cherry Crack, I 5.10
Cerberus Gendarme
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cerberus Gendarme - Mean High Tide III/IV 5.10+ - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Mean High Tide, III/IV 5.10+
Cerberus Gendarme
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Cerberus Gendarme - Fails of Power I 5.11 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Fails of Power, I 5.11
Cerberus Gendarme
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

More routes on Cerberus Gendarme