Trip Report
Sawtooth Ridge Traverse, VI 5.9 AO

by Bela
Wednesday August 1, 2012 7:43pm
ASI Climbing Ambassador, Nick Miley, along with his friend, Yu Kuwabara, just completed the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse from Blacksmith Peak to Matterhorn Peak. The route was first done in its entirety by Claude Fiddler and Vern Clevenger in July, 1984. The route took 48hrs, including 2 bivouacs, one in Cleaver Col and the second on the Dragtooth Glacier. They reported they were glad to bring a 70 meter rope that was just long enough to complete some of the heart-stopping, free-hanging rappels. They confirmed the report of encountering mixed rock quality. The most deteriorated rock was experienced near and climbing out of the cols.

Check out some of their photos:!i=2000421502&k=RhQ5RQ6!i=2000306765&k=GrC6XHw

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Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
  Aug 1, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
TFPU! Love that area.

cool to see the perspective of Finger Peaks change as they moved along the traverse. We traversed Finger Peaks a couple of decades back.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 1, 2012 - 09:37pm PT
Stellar pics!!!

Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
  Aug 1, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
This is fantastic. What great photos. That ridge is awesome from any angle and the views from it are too. I'm comforted to know that nearly every peak and canyon visible is protected forever and largely deserted of anyone, still. When I traversed from Finger to Smedberg lake years ago, it seemed as if no other person had ever been there before me. I'll bet it feels the same today.
Some Random Guy

  Aug 1, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
beautiful! tfpu...that's something i'll get around to sometime
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 2, 2012 - 12:52am PT
Well done. Doodad is quite exciting of a summit block eh

Climbing Doodad
Climbing Doodad
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Aug 2, 2012 - 03:43am PT
I tried this traverse myself back in the 1970s....
Dig the knicers and Joe Brown.
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 2, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Not surprised. Nice job Koony & Nick.

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
  Aug 2, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Sweet inspiration. Last time I was up on Matterhorn, the traverse was seriously calling to us... well done!

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 6, 2012 - 12:34pm PT
Threw up a blog post... for those that want a few more words.
Bela, thanx for posting... a buddy guided me here.
Breadbox UR quick on the haps.

and a short vid...

You get a good idea of what the kitty litter chimneys look like @ 1 min. That was one of the easier ones...

fist clamp
  Aug 6, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
Nice pics, great work. Maybe V 5.8 would be a more accurate rating though.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 6, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
Very nice. Thanks for the posts and pictures.


Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 6, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
I've never been up there, but it looks about as attractive as anything I've seen, as viewed from the summit of Conness.

The Granite State.
  Nov 20, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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