Sawtooth Ridge Traverse, VI 5.9 AO

Trip Report

Wednesday August 1, 2012 4:43pm

ASI Climbing Ambassador, Nick Miley, along with his friend, Yu Kuwabara, just completed the Sawtooth Ridge Traverse from Blacksmith Peak to Matterhorn Peak. The route was first done in its entirety by Claude Fiddler and Vern Clevenger in July, 1984. The route took 48hrs, including 2 bivouacs, one in Cleaver Col and the second on the Dragtooth Glacier. They reported they were glad to bring a 70 meter rope that was just long enough to complete some of the heart-stopping, free-hanging rappels. They confirmed the report of encountering mixed rock quality. The most deteriorated rock was experienced near and climbing out of the cols.

Check out some of their photos:
http://telek.smugmug.com/Climbing/Sawtooths-Traverse-Panos/24506802_ScWMfn#!i=2000421502&k=RhQ5RQ6

http://tahoepulp.smugmug.com/Other/sawtooth/24505910_xpF6kM#!i=2000306765&k=GrC6XHw

Trip Report Views: 1,466

Bela

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Recone

Social climber

New Zealand

Aug 1, 2012 - 04:49pm PT

Nice work!

Nibs

Trad climber

Humboldt, CA

Aug 1, 2012 - 05:03pm PT

TFPU! Love that area.

cool to see the perspective of Finger Peaks change as they moved along the traverse. We traversed Finger Peaks a couple of decades back.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber

WA, & NC & Idaho

Aug 1, 2012 - 06:37pm PT

Stellar pics!!!

TMJesse

Mountain climber

Olympia, WA

Aug 1, 2012 - 07:04pm PT

This is fantastic. What great photos. That ridge is awesome from any angle and the views from it are too. I'm comforted to know that nearly every peak and canyon visible is protected forever and largely deserted of anyone, still. When I traversed from Finger to Smedberg lake years ago, it seemed as if no other person had ever been there before me. I'll bet it feels the same today.

Some Random Guy

climber

Under a Little Pink Umbrella

Aug 1, 2012 - 07:29pm PT

beautiful! tfpu...that's something i'll get around to sometime

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Aug 1, 2012 - 09:52pm PT

Well done. Doodad is quite exciting of a summit block eh


	Climbing Doodad Credit: Vitaliy M.


	Doodad Credit: Vitaliy M.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Aug 2, 2012 - 12:43am PT

Awesome
I tried this traverse myself back in the 1970s....
Dig the knicers and Joe Brown.


	Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Stevee B

Mountain climber

Oakland, CA

Aug 2, 2012 - 08:39am PT

Not surprised. Nice job Koony & Nick.

WML

climber

Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

Aug 2, 2012 - 09:08am PT

Sweet pics! Awesome TR, little info out about that traverse and seeing these photos piques my interest big-time. Care to offer some words about it as well? Spray us down a bit, eh? ;-)

aran

Trad climber

berkeley, ca

Aug 2, 2012 - 01:07pm PT

Sweet inspiration. Last time I was up on Matterhorn, the traverse was seriously calling to us... well done!

TeleK

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Aug 6, 2012 - 09:34am PT

Threw up a blog post... for those that want a few more words.
Bela, thanx for posting... a buddy guided me here.
Breadbox UR quick on the haps.

http://snowymonk.blogspot.com/2012/08/sawtooths-crest-traverse-one-in-ca-part.html

and a short vid...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj0ocBOo3O8

You get a good idea of what the kitty litter chimneys look like @ 1 min. That was one of the easier ones...