Trip Report
Rogers Pass Alpine: four days of "shIt-fUck" conditions...
Monday March 9, 2015 5:33pm
it's another act of penance for my contributions to the OT...



ok, so as the photos will attest, for the most part it was only the first 600m or so off the highway that were shIt-fUck... when it rains multiple times down low turning everything below the rain line to ice but the stability is good and the forecasts are for bluebird, it's time to see what getting high has to offer. what follows are photos from four days in the alpine over two sequential february weekends...

some days the gods show mercy and repeatedly give undeserving mortals gifts...




1.0 approaching the swiss peaks with their beautiful triptych of coulo...
1.0 approaching the swiss peaks with their beautiful triptych of couloirs...
Credit: nah000

1.1 bootpacking up the central swiss couloir.
1.1 bootpacking up the central swiss couloir.
Credit: nah000

1.2 descending... you can never have too many shots with sir donald in...
1.2 descending... you can never have too many shots with sir donald in the background...
Credit: nah000

1.3 what we came here for: even though we expected more shIt-fucK and ...
1.3 what we came here for: even though we expected more shIt-fucK and less pinch me i can't believe this is happening...
Credit: the pole

1.4 and now on to descending the 600m of shIt-fUck ice that awaited us...
1.4 and now on to descending the 600m of shIt-fUck ice that awaited us at the end of our day.
Credit: nah000







2.0 ascending the bowl next to nrc on the way towards avalanche peak
2.0 ascending the bowl next to nrc on the way towards avalanche peak
Credit: nah000

2.1 descending the vent shaft below avalanche peak
2.1 descending the vent shaft below avalanche peak
Credit: the frenchie

2.2 exiting via the bowl below avalanche peak
2.2 exiting via the bowl below avalanche peak
Credit: nah000







3.0 n face of video peak: ok. this was actual shIt-fucK conditions... ...
3.0 n face of video peak: ok. this was actual shIt-fucK conditions... even if the photo lyingly implies a bit of fluffy spray...
Credit: nah000

3.1 ascending towards n face of 8812 with ursus major at right
3.1 ascending towards n face of 8812 with ursus major at right
Credit: nah000

3.2 summit of 8812: yeah it's a bit of a cheesy shot, but what can you...
3.2 summit of 8812: yeah it's a bit of a cheesy shot, but what can you do?
Credit: nah000







4.0 ascending towards the jupiter traverse over castor, pollux and led...
4.0 ascending towards the jupiter traverse over castor, pollux and leda.
Credit: nah000

4.1 sapphire col hut with castor in the background
4.1 sapphire col hut with castor in the background
Credit: nah000

4.2 bootpacking towards pollux
4.2 bootpacking towards pollux
Credit: nah000

4.3 towards leda: photos usually either underplay or exaggerate exposu...
4.3 towards leda: photos usually either underplay or exaggerate exposure... this one captured it about the way it felt...
Credit: nah000

4.4 fin: approaching the end of the bootpacking and the summit of leda
4.4 fin: approaching the end of the bootpacking and the summit of leda
Credit: nah000

  Trip Report Views: 7,487
nah000
About the Author
nah000 is a climber.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Mar 9, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
Yahhhh Nah!!!
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
  Mar 9, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
Sh#t Yah!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Mar 9, 2015 - 05:49pm PT
Conditions variable, the beauty ever present...thanks for posting. Love that place.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Mar 9, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
Sh#t f*#k conditions are my favorite
Great photos!!!!!!
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
  Mar 9, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
Impressive!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
  Mar 9, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
YAHOOO, Nah000 ! ! !

I went bicycle riding in short pants today. It's just not the same...
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Mar 9, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
Beautiful and badass all at the same time!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Mar 9, 2015 - 07:28pm PT
Wow! I'm impressed! Nice skiing too. Looks like it was wonderful up high! I love the shots with Sir Donald in the background.
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Mar 9, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
At least you have snow up there. We are skiing on dirt. Thanks-lars
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
  Mar 9, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
Super nice pics and lines! TFPU!

The conditions are a bit concerning. Not normal for Selkirks or anywhere else in BC.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Mar 9, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
Burly ! Real deal !

Climate change !
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Mar 9, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
All respect, awesome! thanx for posting!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
  Mar 9, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
freaking sick!

Thank you
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
  Mar 9, 2015 - 11:50pm PT
omg you're killing me here. agh. great tr . om g wish I was there..
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
  Mar 10, 2015 - 06:19am PT
Way to get out there. It's easy to get lazy and blow off skiing when it takes so much effort to get to the goods but it's most always worth it as you showed. Strange winter all over the west. I thought we'd have a bit more time before climate change really took hold!
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Mar 10, 2015 - 06:37am PT
Wow.
alannamal

climber
B.C.
  Mar 10, 2015 - 07:08am PT
I bet you knew the conditions were gonna be kinda nasty. Way to go for it anyways!
nah000

climber
now/here
Author's Reply  Mar 10, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
thanks for all of your kind comments!

alannamal and norm: it was a case of desperation... i had wanted to get out the weekends prior but the condition reports were so depressing i stayed home and on at least one weekend went running... in shorts and a t-shirt... in calgary... in february. which is what made these days so incredibly special. the first weekend, we went out purely due to cabin fever and only with the intent of getting some fitness in. and so especially the swiss day truly felt like slowly tearing into a well wrapped present. we had zero expectations and didn't even consider that couloir until we were on the swiss glacier. just proof it pays to get out even if all indications are it'll be a waste of time.

tami [you made me lol :)] and kunlan: climate change is all well and good when you are going running in calgary in february... but goddamn it, don't mess with the snowpack at the pass !@#!@#11111!!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 10, 2015 - 09:38am PT
Wow that looks great. Got ski very little so far this year so thanks for the report.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Mar 10, 2015 - 09:41am PT
Superb Awesomeness has descended upon you!!

Thanks!!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Mar 10, 2015 - 11:59am PT
Dang it all, that's some beautiful stuff right there.

Thanks.

BAd
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 22, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
I was rummaging through the treasure chest and bumped into this fine offering.
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
  Dec 22, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
Very nice!

This TR has me jonesing.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 22, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
Beautiful!
zBrown

Ice climber
  Dec 22, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
Icy, even cool! :}

thanks
gumbyKing

climber
Temporarily away from any good rock
  Dec 29, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
Great looking photos! Thanks for sharing
moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Dec 29, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
Brings back great memories of times I use to take for granted...Thanks for sharing and a Happy New Year to all.........

Stevo
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Dec 29, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
Just as awesome as the first time perusing those pix. And agree with you regarding "anything with Sir Donald in the background...."

:-)
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
  Dec 29, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
Photo 2.1 looks dreamy.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Dec 29, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
GLOW-REE-USSSS!

In a few days I'll be climbing in Italy or Switzerland, and probably will cross little or no snow!!! El Nino!!!!!!!!!!1111111

But dreamin' of getting back to some Sierra love this winter.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Dec 29, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
Nice pics!

I broke the tail on my splitboard, but I plan to replace and do some hiking soon!
nah000

climber
now/here
Author's Reply  Dec 30, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
thanks for the props folks...

we're having one of the best starts at the pass in terms of snowpack stability and depth that i've seen and the rockies are all three by green right now as well... pretty rare to have the whole area see stability like this... there have been some pretty ridiculous descents happening in both the rockies and at the pass that don't usually happen until spring... so, so far so good! hope you all are getting and/or get some good days wherever you all are at!

what? the rockies are all at low^3 late in december?
what? the rockies are all at low^3 late in december?
Credit: avalanche.ca
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 30, 2015 - 11:12am PT
Nice to see something from out of state! Thanks for posting!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jan 8, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
I missed this first time around.
I guess there are some good results from global warming.
Stoke!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jan 11, 2016 - 02:20pm PT
looks like MOMS doing a flip flop from last year,,a few snow records broken in the northwest already,,,better get some wax out,,,for my surfboard,,
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Oct 27, 2017 - 05:53pm PT
Bump the door open on the Nabooski train, & step inside, always worth the ride!
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
  Oct 27, 2017 - 07:22pm PT
Rogers Pass driving can be a lottery as avalanches and summer mud slides can close the highway. They don't call it Revelstuck for nuttin
Best Rogers Pass driving story was when a Calgary climber was driving through in winter. -20 or 25C. Donnie had the heater going full blast so he was wearing shorts and a T shirt.
He stops at the pass to take a leak. Leaves the vehicle running.
During the process his dog( inside the vehicle) hits the door lock button.
Donnie is somewhat concerned
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 27, 2017 - 08:25pm PT
Nice!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Oct 27, 2017 - 08:27pm PT


And AP you gotta finish that story. I had my kids lock me outta the car when they were toddlers. We were at the dump for drywall.....a giant shed with drywall mountain at one end... I was finally able to get my son, then 3, to roll down the window enough I could reach in and unlock the door.

And third time around these pix are still Fabooooooo



L

climber
It's a Bear Affair
  Oct 27, 2017 - 08:47pm PT
Aaaaaahhhhhhh....now we really know who nah000 is!

As one who's suffered with Raynaud's Syndrome since her 20s, I look at that endless expanse of glittering white stuff and think: Not. In. A. Million. Years.

But it looks like home to you, nah000, and amazingly beautiful.....from a great distance. Glad you made it out to the peaks. Thanks for sharing with us toasty-by-the-fire weenies.
johnokner

Trad climber
Omis
  Oct 28, 2017 - 04:36am PT
way to Hit it! Roger's pass is fun!

Credit: johnokner
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 2, 2017 - 07:03am PT

Dude, nice shot. Freaking "Ogre"esque. Great report. Just what I needed this morning.


Scott
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