Trip Report
Rock Warrior & The Fiddler on the Roof. A Black Velvet Weekend
Wednesday December 19, 2012 10:27am
After many many years of walking into Black Velvet Canyon and staring at the magnificent stretch of rock to the left of the "Prince of Darkness", I finally had the opportunity and the partner to give the route "Rock Warrior" a try. This route links a beautiful series of natural features with just enough bolts to show the way and keep things relatively safe but still interesting. Just 30 feet to the right, "The Prince" is a seven pitch clip up which makes for an interesting juxtaposition in style and boldness.
I led the even pitches and my great partner led the odds. I think the odds are a little scarier but it's always hard to say when on a top rope. I always start thinking how scared I would be "if" I were leading the pitch. When on lead I guess I think things through a little more carefully and try not to climb into a pickle.
This route has great climbing and links beautiful cracks and natural features and has interesting climbing that seems more varied than the endless edge pulling on "The Prince of Darkness".
A good rack would include lots of small and medium stoppers and single cams from a green C3 to a .75 C4.

Pitch two of Rock Warrior with climber to the Right on the Prince of D...
Pitch two of Rock Warrior with climber to the Right on the Prince of Darkness
Credit: spectreman

Nothing too scary but I probably wouldn't want to lead every pitch. It was nice to swap leads and just enjoy the exposure and movement without always thinking so much.

Beautiful black varnish
Beautiful black varnish
Credit: spectreman

This wall is so wonderful and goes unbroken by ledges for pitch after pitch. The exposure is great and makes you feel like you are on a more committing and serious route.

looking down on pitch three of Rock Warrior
looking down on pitch three of Rock Warrior
Credit: spectreman

Credit: spectreman

Rock Warrior was so fun we decided to go back in the next day and give "Fiddler on the Roof" a try. Many people call this the best route on the wall and there is a famous pitch that traverses the lip of a massive roof. Rumors abound about climbers falling on the traverse and swinging out over the roof and having to prussik back to solid ground.
The climbing proved to be fantastic and the roof traverse was spectacular! The pitch above the roof involved some of the best face climbing and varnish that I have yet seen in Red Rocks.
Unfortunately the belay before the traverse doesn't have a good view of the roof so it's impossible to get a good photo that shows the wonderful climbing and exposure.

heading towards the big roof traverse
heading towards the big roof traverse
Credit: spectreman

starting into the traverse
starting into the traverse
Credit: spectreman

Amazing varnish on pitch four of Fiddler
Amazing varnish on pitch four of Fiddler
Credit: spectreman

Credit: spectreman

What a fantastic place to be.

Credit: spectreman


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spectreman
About the Author
spectreman is a climber and recovering Republicon

Comments
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Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Dec 19, 2012 - 10:31am PT
Nice!

DMT
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Dec 19, 2012 - 10:42am PT
Awesome. That climb is definitely on the list!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Dec 19, 2012 - 10:43am PT
Sweet
TFPU
Tad
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
  Dec 19, 2012 - 10:49am PT
Dave Wonderly aka Tapes, one of the great unsung climbers of the S. Cal scene.
cowpoke

climber
  Dec 19, 2012 - 11:14am PT
Yay! Two on my short list. They both look so sweet.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Dec 19, 2012 - 11:23am PT
Nice TR! Great routes.
Prod

Trad climber
  Dec 19, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Nice pics.

I did RW in 1990ish and lead the Odds. I remember clipping the first bolt, way the f*#k off the deck and thinking "WHEW". Then I remember being runout leaning back on hollow flakes looking for the next bolt, and slinging hollow flakes laughing at how useless they would be.

Gotta get on Fiddler on the Roof.

Prod.
Shurlock_Ventriloquist

climber
  Dec 19, 2012 - 11:56am PT
nice stuff...that face pitch above the roof on fiddler is some of the sweetest chocolate-silver varnish in the canyon and has to be experienced directly
cowpoke

climber
  Dec 19, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
This needs to stay on the front page for at least a few days. Nice pics of two RR classics. Gets me psyched.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Dec 19, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
Rock Warrior, sweet. Rowdy Yates!
spectreman

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 20, 2012 - 12:06am PT
Thanks for the comments! Going back for Christmas, hopefully the weather will cooperate for some more Red Rock classics!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 20, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
Awesome, love that place!!!!!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Dec 20, 2012 - 09:29pm PT

Thanks for sharing--awesome photos!
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