Trip Report
Return to Joshua Tree
Tuesday November 16, 2010 10:02am
I'd only been to Joshua Tree National Park three times, all over Thanksgiving weekend. But my buddy Justin and I had some time over Veteran's Day to road trip down there this year, so on Thursday we made the long drive down from the SF Bay area through Bakersfield and Barstow and the high desert to teh Jtree.

First stop on Friday was the Center of the Known Universe, aka Intersection Rock. We decided to get calibrated on Mike's Books (5.6) and Justin took the first lead -

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Mike's Books (5.6) -- first pitch after Justin led it
Mike's Books (5.6) -- first pitch after Justin led it
Credit: rhyang
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The second pitch was wide fun .. I'd followed it once before, but it was still a grunt, and the #4 camalot came in handy.

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Mike's Books (5.6) -- second pitch
Mike's Books (5.6) -- second pitch
Credit: rhyang
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Mike's Books (5.6) -- Justin finishing the second pitch
Mike's Books (5.6) -- Justin finishing the second pitch
Credit: rhyang
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We took in the views from the top of Intersection Rock, rapped off and had lunch :) What next .. ah yes, the infamous Toe Jam (5.7) ! We only had to wait in line for one party, and it was just as fun as I remember it.

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Toe Jam (5.7) -- me leading
Toe Jam (5.7) -- me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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I was in the mood to climb a couple of lines on Hemingway Buttress, and as luck would have it the afternoon shade had chased off all but one party which was way over on the right toproping some 5.11 thing.

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Hemingway Buttress in the afternoon
Hemingway Buttress in the afternoon
Credit: rhyang
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I got on White Lightning (5.7) -

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White Lightning (5.7) - me leading
White Lightning (5.7) - me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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Thoroughly enjoyable, and my first time leading it. Next up was Dung Fu (5.7), which I'd only seen someone leading once (accompanied by much cursing and complaining). I thought it was fun ! The chimney moves were a little awkward, but nothing too difficult.

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Dung Fu (5.7) -- me leading
Dung Fu (5.7) -- me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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By now darkness was spreading across the land, so we decided it was time to head for the Thai place in town (which unfortunately had not yet opened their buffet for the season).

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Darkness falls on Hemingway Buttress
Darkness falls on Hemingway Buttress
Credit: rhyang
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Saturday morning we headed out to Echo Rock, the site of my first lead at Jtree. Justin started up Double Dip (5.6) --

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Double Dip (5.6) -- Justin leading
Double Dip (5.6) -- Justin leading
Credit: rhyang
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The hordes arrived just as we walked back to our packs. We waited in line for Stichter Quits aka Black Tide (5.7), which I led after falling on the first bolt a few times.

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Stichter Quits (5.7) - me leading
Stichter Quits (5.7) - me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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Lunchtime again :) It was time to revisit the Dairy Queen Wall. We arrived to find parties on the climbs I wanted to do, but again the afternoon shade chased them away. We joked that it was good alpine training, hahaha. I started up Frosty Cone (5.7) -

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Frosty Cone (5.7) -- me leading
Frosty Cone (5.7) -- me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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This one felt less like a crack climb than a crack-protected jug haul, but it was a lot of fun nonetheless. Next up was Mr. Misty Kiss (5.8 in the new guide, 5.7 in the old), on which I'd caught a lead fall five years ago.

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Mr. Misty Kiss (5.8) -- me leading
Mr. Misty Kiss (5.8) -- me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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It was pretty challenging for me, but I made it. Phew ! Last climb of the day was Scrumdillyishus (5.7)

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Scrumdillyishus (5.7) -- me leading
Scrumdillyishus (5.7) -- me leading
Credit: Justin Marion
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This one had more jams than Frosty Cone, and was a little tricky getting around the overhung section. Good times. We decided to check out the Mexican food at Edchada's in 29 Palms.

Sunday our plan was to make the hike in to Lenticular Dome in the Wonderland of Rocks. We shouldered our packs, laden with double ropes and too much gear and headed out.

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Uncle Willie's Health Food Store
Uncle Willie's Health Food Store
Credit: Justin Marion
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Cacti in the Wonderland of Rocks
Cacti in the Wonderland of Rocks
Credit: rhyang
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North and South Astro Domes, on the way to Lenticular Dome
North and South Astro Domes, on the way to Lenticular Dome
Credit: rhyang
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Lenticular Dome on the approach
Lenticular Dome on the approach
Credit: rhyang
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After scrambling up through the maze of huge boulders surrounding the dome we were pleased to discover that nobody else was on Mental Physics (5.7+) -- hooray ! Up we went.

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Mental Physics (5.7+) -- me on lead
Mental Physics (5.7+) -- me on lead
Credit: Justin Marion
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Mental Physics (5.7+) -- Justin following first pitch
Mental Physics (5.7+) -- Justin following first pitch
Credit: rhyang
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I thought about doing the second pitch, but we hadn't brought our approach shoes up with us, and weren't sure if there was a rap anchor up top. So we called it good. I brought way too much gear -- it was a romp !

As we coiled our ropes a party started scrambling up the boulders. On the hike out we encountered a large group heading for the dome .. good thing we got an early start :)

After getting back to the parking lot we decided to go check out Headstone Rock in the afternoon.

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Headstone Rock
Headstone Rock
Credit: rhyang
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SW Corner of Headstone Rock (5.6) -- Justin leading
SW Corner of Headstone Rock (5.6) -- Justin leading
Credit: rhyang
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Cryptic (5.8) on Headstone Rock -- we didn't climb it, next ti...
Cryptic (5.8) on Headstone Rock -- we didn't climb it, next time maybe :)
Credit: rhyang
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The SW Corner was everything I'd read about -- fantastic exposure and fun climbing. We decided to leave Cryptic (5.8) for another day, though it looked enjoyable.

It was a warm day, but the wind was picking up. Justin decided to go check out Cap Rock in memory of Gram Parsons and we started off on the long drive home.

  Trip Report Views: 4,743
rhyang
About the Author

Comments
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Nov 16, 2010 - 10:10am PT
Very nice TR to wake up to today!! Thanks for the post!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Nov 16, 2010 - 10:24am PT
Good stuff there, Rhyang. Nice to see folk out & about.
yeehaw!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 16, 2010 - 10:53am PT
Coolio, headed out tuesday!
Phil_B

Social climber
CHC, en zed
  Nov 16, 2010 - 11:19am PT
Sweet!

Getting the stoke on for JT. Heading out this weekend. Thanks for the TR
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Nov 16, 2010 - 11:27am PT
I feel warmer and am smiling just from looking at those photos. Thanks for sharing. :)
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 16, 2010 - 11:27am PT
You nailed some classics! Nice work.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Nov 16, 2010 - 11:33am PT
Wow-
Nice TR! Makes me all the more anxious to go there again...

You did several of my old favorites, esp. "Black Tide," a.k.a. "Stichter Quits," and "Double Dip." "Black Tide" must be getting pretty polished and greasy by now after countless ascents. I've led it 5-6 times in the past---wonder how I'd do now? "Toe Jam" is another Joshua Tree classic, as is "Tiptoe!" How did you forget that one?

Seem to recall we met up on "After Six" back in August; I was with Ed Hartouni, and trying to regain "my feet" on rock again after an accident earlier this year.

Two of your climbs, "White Lightning," and "Mental Physics" are both on my very short list of "things to do."

Again, nice TR!

Rodger
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
  Nov 16, 2010 - 11:39am PT
Awesome, thanksfor the tr man!!!!!!!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Nov 16, 2010 - 11:44am PT
RHYang - A classic trip! You should be a guide. People would pay for that much fun.
D. Rivas

climber
Ventura, CA.
  Nov 16, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
Cool TR. Looks like you guys put in some work, and timed the crowds just right. Thanks for this.
davi
Chris Wegener

Trad climber
Los Angeles
  Nov 16, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Very nice photos!

Regards,
Chris
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Nov 16, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
Super cool TR!!

Thanks for posting the pics.

That headstone at the end of the day looked to be an awesome climb.

Thanks
delendaest

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Nov 16, 2010 - 12:56pm PT
Nice TR, thanks for all the pics
pc

climber
  Nov 16, 2010 - 01:03pm PT
very nice! thanks for the tour.
Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer

Trad climber
  Nov 16, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
Excellent! I have yet to make it to Joshua Tree, but this more or less exactly sums up what I want to do - a lot of classic, moderate routes. Looks like so much fun.
PhotogEC

climber
In front of my computer
  Nov 16, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
Looks like you guys had a great time, and that's what it's all about. Thanks for the pics!

--Eric
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
Thanks all ! It was a great time.

Rodger, I remember the Valley that day. I hope you are feeling better and better.

re: Stichter Quits -- there is some discussion about how thin and polished those first moves have become on mountainproject. The first time I followed it was four years ago, and it was pretty slick then. We did watch an older gentleman with a helmet cam totally flash the thing after my desperate effort though :)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 16, 2010 - 06:13pm PT
Nice TR, thanks for sharing!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 16, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
Thanks! You guys know how to have fun.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Nov 16, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
rhyang-
"Black Tide" is still one of my favorite climbs ANYWHERE! I've always liked slab/friction climbing. Another one of my all-time faves in Joshua Tree is "Chalk Up Another One," but I hear that it too, has become harder. It was only a 5.9+ and now, according to Mountain Project, is a 5.10a or 5.10b.
Rodger
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Seattle Washington
  Nov 17, 2010 - 01:06am PT
Wow! Amazing trip report, should re title it all the jtree classics revisited.....
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Nov 17, 2010 - 01:42am PT
Bravo Rhyang...you guys really checked off a bunch of high quality routes for a 3-day weekend.
Port

Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden 🇸🇪
  Nov 17, 2010 - 01:50am PT
Oh man, you climbed Dung Fu huh? I climbed that thing ages and couldn't figure out why it was called DUNG fu.....until I came to the massive pile of Bat sh#t about 6 feet in diameter! Oh shit!
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Nov 17, 2010 - 01:52am PT
Oh Yeah! Thanks for building the stoke for me! Great TR and what gorgeous blue sky for you guys! Thanks for taking the time to post this.
426

climber
  Nov 17, 2010 - 08:07am PT
I was about to say the same thing about the blue, whoa, vivid! NJ.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Nov 17, 2010 - 08:12am PT
Oh man, I got to get back to JT sooner then later, thanks for posting up.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:54am PT
Nice trip report! The hitlist is more or less in my wheel house, and I appreciated it all the more for that. I had done some of the climbs, but there rest are going on my list for the next time I flee the Washington rain and get down there. It didn't sound too crowded?

Thank for the mention of the Gram Parsons story. I hadn't know about that. Wikipedia has a good or at least very bizarre accounting of his life, death and his relationship to Joshua Tree:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gram_Parsons#Death

Darwin
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:15am PT
re: crowds -- this is prime Jtree season and from what I can tell it's more crowded on holiday weekends (such as Veterans Day or Thanksgiving). To give you an idea, I think the first time I followed White Lightning over a Thanksgiving weekend we waited in line for an hour. This time we only waited in line for Toe Jam and Stichter Quits. A group had a toprope set up on the latter ..

Most people this time of year chase the sun and flee the cold shade, so you might try doing the opposite, which worked well for us. For south-facing routes which are always in the sun (like on Lenticular Dome), perhaps the only strategy is to get an early start, or be prepared to wait (or have alternate plans).

But Thanksgiving weekend seems to be a zoo there in general .. which can be fun if you look forward to running into people you may not have seen in a while.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Nov 17, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Re - chasing the shade: Rhyang nailed it!

However the big trick to climbing in some solitude in the park is pretty easy. Walk about 10 minutes and you won't see a soul. Unfortunately many of the classics are within eyesight of the parking lot, Ive found tons of gems just a little bit off the beaten path. Baskerville Crack, Planet X, Comic Book, Pop Goes the Hawaiian hardly ever have a soul!
Zander

climber
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
Awesome! Thanks for posting.
Zander
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
I'd stay away from the place;....there are creepy crawly things there.....

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
Now that's a nice pet to take to the desert!

And the lady in purple isn't even freaked out!
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
Cool report thanks! You guys ticked some really fun classic lines.
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
Nice TR. Looks like you guys were busy....having a blast!
Renatus

Trad climber
Greenbrae, CA (San Francisco/Bay Area)
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
There is nothing like Joshua Tree - very nice report!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
Rob

Nice TR. Great pics.

I think we crossed paths by Dairy Queen. We were cold and on the way to the sun. You were on the way in.

I'm a big fan of your climbing exploits.

Keep up the great work.

Wes
Moquah

Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
  Nov 18, 2010 - 01:12am PT
I just got back from JT. It was cold and windy much of the time. I would not have wanted to climb in the shade. I've climbed literally hundreds of routes there and have never had to wait in line for a route; granted I usually climb rasty nasty routes, but I still have a good time. Too bad there were so many tarantulas all over the park. Good thing I got my vaccinations before I got there.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Nov 18, 2010 - 10:44am PT
Thanks again everyone ! Hope you all had a good time Wes !
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Nov 19, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
Nice! You've reminded me that I must get back down there one of these days.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Nov 20, 2010 - 01:28am PT
hey there say, rhyang... wow, thanks for the wonderful jt share...

love the pics, but did not get to see them all...
same ol' same ol' = slow dial up...

but i sure DID stick it out as long as i could...

god bless!!!
:)
swanson

Trad climber
Carlsbad
  Nov 23, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
Looks like a great time. Thanks for the TR!
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Nov 23, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
Joshua Tree, WHEE HOO!
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