Trip Report
Red Rock Canyon- A Week of Perfect Weather
Sunday November 4, 2012 9:38pm

Red Rock Canyon trip reports all generally share the same characteristics; great photos,great weather, great climbs. This one is no different- just a fun week exploring new routes in one of my favorite areas.

We showed up midday on a Saturday, found a campsite, and went out to Juniper Canyon and climbed Y2K- an easy 5.10 that got us psyched for desert varnish and clean cracks. I didn't take my cameras, so sorry, no pictures of this cool climb.

Camping out beneath a full moon was an added bonus

Sunday, after sleeping in and having a casual start to shake off the road weariness of the drive from Montana, we headed out to Windy Peak and climbed Jubilant Song, a route I saw recommended here on a previous thread. No one else was around, which was a great bonus for a weekend climb.

Greg climbing beneath the big roof on the 3rd pitch.

Jubilant Song climbs the sunlit buttress, through the right side of the roof, and up to the top of the peak.

Monday, after sleeping in and enjoying the warmth of the morning sun, we headed over to Dark Shadows. Strolling in mid day worked well, as the conga line was dissipating, and we were able to enjoy this classic 5.8 with minimal interruption.

looking down at the start of the climb from the top of the 2nd pitch

Dark Clothing on Dark Shadows makes a Dark Picture

Tuesday we decided to check out Black Velvet Canyon, an area I hadn't been back to since 1986. We decided to climb Sand Felipe, to get a feel for the rock and grade.

It was awesome. Since we were in the area, we did a quick romp up Schaeffers Delight, a great mellow climb.

We scoped out Black Velvet Wall and got psyched on Prince of Darkness. It was a more feasible route for us than Rock Warrior, and shares a similar line, right up the center of the huge face, just left of the black water streak. It was our goal for the following day.

We were first into the canyon that day, and was great fun. Here's a shot of Greg on the final rappel back to the ground.

Black Velvet Canyon, left side

We wrapped up our trip the next day with some sport climbing in the Corridor

and some bouldering in the Calico Hills

Looking forward to next year!

  Trip Report Views: 2,270
About the Author
telemon01 is a trad climber from Montana.

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Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Nov 4, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
Hey that was my thread, thanks for the recomendation but we ended up craiging at the calico hills and climbing tunnel visson.

Awsome TR
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 4, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
Love that place, thanks for sharing!!!!!

  Nov 4, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
I've never been but it always looks like such a great place. Thanks for posting.

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Nov 4, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
Gosh, I wish I could have been down there this week, it looks fantastic. I spent a great Fall week there 2 years ago, and after a number of Spring trips have concluded that Fall is really the time I want to be there. So much less wind.
Thanks for the TR!

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 4, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
Beautiful favorite place

Wade Icey

Trad climber
  Nov 5, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Glad to see you getting at it. thanks.

  Nov 5, 2012 - 01:42am PT
Looks so good! Nice TR!

Trad climber
  Nov 5, 2012 - 06:53am PT
Thanks for the trip report. Headed out there in 2 weeks. Can't wait.

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Nov 5, 2012 - 07:25am PT
Good times! Those are a lot of quality pitches! Congrats!

Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
  Nov 15, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
Great trip Marcus and Greg! Great to seeya back in the saddle again Greg!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 9, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Ba bump!!!!

Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
  Dec 9, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
beautiful place!

thank you for sharing

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Dec 9, 2012 - 09:55pm PT

I wasn't expecting to see this tonight- thanks for the bump Ezra Ellis. The heat of the desert seems like a long time ago. It took me about a week after getting back to let go of warm sun baking my bones. Now it is full on winter here, and the skiing is great.

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