Trip Report
Red Dihedral- Weather Window
Thursday September 22, 2016 2:51pm
Well, nearly off the couch climb, as I have not been hiking or climbing much. As always an adventure begins with the research of looking over your trip. My buddy and I had been planning on the Incredible Hulk for the past year. Timing was an issue. I being in my late 40's was like Goldilocks, I didn't want it Too Hot nor Too Cold. Call it the "Pussification," my age, or the lack of hardcore climbing that I used to do. Perhaps just enjoying a bit too much of the so called "Domestication." All the same, after finishing this route I think of guys older than me that basically run up the route from car to car in one day and think nothing of it (my hats off to you Mr Croft and Mr Nettle, you guys are badass).

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Our view on hike up Little Slide Canyon.
Our view on hike up Little Slide Canyon.
Credit: Brock
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McNamara's "High Sierra" guide book was dead on for map, route, and information. Many thanks Chris! I felt route was easy to find but carrying a pack up 3000' my legs felt it. Glad we chose to hike in the day before. We decided to climb later part of mid Sept. Weather, in Sept., can be a bit hit or miss. As we hiked in there was a party that stated they got nearly blown off of Positive Vibration and had to retreat. Guess with routes like Solar Flare, Venturi Effect, the winds are pretty consistant and can be a determining factor on ones success up the routes on the Hulk.

The Hike in was 2.5 miles from campground to the tree (easily noted from pictures) then another 2.5 miles up Little Slide Canyon (not a faint trail anymore as appears to be popular climbing area now).

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Tree to turn off main trail to head up Little Slide Canyon.
Tree to turn off main trail to head up Little Slide Canyon.
Credit: Brock
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Trees were still there to cross the "river" but in Mid September the river was just a small creek.
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Credit: Brock
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The wind was fierce when we got to the camp area. We had just brought sleeping bags, pads, and no tent. We had to find some rock shelters which was easy to do. Beautiful star filled night. It was fun watching satellites and shooting stars. When we awoke the next morning the wind was still present but had died down a bit. The temps were in the 40's without the wind chill effect. With a late Alpine start, we were at the base of the climb at 7am. Make sure to bring layers for the weather on this climb. We decided to each carry small camel backpacks and it worked just fine. As the route is West facing (on East side up Little Slide Canyon), it didn't get sun until 11:30 on the mid portion of the route. Luckily we were first on route but by the time I was on the 5.10b pitch there were two other parties at the base and moving quick.

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Credit: Brock
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Guess I was a bit out of shape and the cold took it toll on my hands on the upper pitches as I started to cramp a bit. My buddy took over the last 4 pitches. Granite is stellar and high quality. Gear placement was never an issue.

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Pitch 3? Pitch just before the Dihedral.
Pitch 3? Pitch just before the Dihedral.
Credit: Brock
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Beautiful pitch! 5.9 to a 5.10b move.  Altitude could be felt.
Beautiful pitch! 5.9 to a 5.10b move. Altitude could be felt.
Credit: Brock
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Credit: Brock
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Rap down could be tricky. We took a copy of the Supertopo instructions just incase. From the top of the last pitch (the hole), go southeast and then down climb (5.4?) to the obviouse rap anchor with webbing.

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down climb to the anchor.
down climb to the anchor.
Credit: Brock
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Rap webbing. Anyone want to bring and update it with chains?
Rap webbing. Anyone want to bring and update it with chains?
Credit: Brock
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Credit: Brock
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Make sure to bring up some shoes for hike down. Loose scree/rock canyon. Unless your super fit, I recommend two days for the route, 1st day to hike in and the 2nd climb then hike out. That being said, a 3rd day would have been nice to have for the hike out. Incredible views. Bear scat all over the lower area of Little Slide Canyon so bring bear canisters. Pack out what ever you bring. We picked up some trash near where we camped. Be safe and have a blast.

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Credit: Brock
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Many cool other formations in the area. A great deal of potential first ascents await!

  Trip Report Views: 2,032
Brock
About the Author
Brock is a trad climber from RENO, NV.

Comments
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Sep 22, 2016 - 02:59pm PT
TFPU, Brock! Good TR and good pics.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Sep 22, 2016 - 03:11pm PT
Great job on the TR. Thanks for posting!

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Sep 22, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
Nice send. Way to get after it.

Scott
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Sep 22, 2016 - 04:04pm PT
Nice to read the off the couch perspective! Looks like a fun time out with a little Sierra coolness, wind and a pretty major backcountry route under your belt. Thanks!! Rene'
MP

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  Sep 22, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
Nice, thanks for the TR.
The weather window is definitely closing.
We climbed RD on 9/9 with perfect conditions, but talked to a party that had to bail from Venturi due to wind and cold the week before.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Sep 22, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
Incredible Hulk off the couch! TFPU
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 23, 2016 - 12:51am PT
Beauty! Thanks for sharing
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Author's Reply  Sep 23, 2016 - 08:29am PT
Thanks everyone. It was a blast but I am still feeling it in the thighs from hike down with the pack.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 23, 2016 - 09:51am PT
Strong effort sir!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Sep 23, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
such a great place and fun romp
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