Trip Report
Quick trip to Zion - Batter Up!

by WML
Sunday April 14, 2013 5:30pm
At my going away party in Reno a month and a half ago I brought up the idea to two of my closest friends that we should reunite for a weekend of laughter, climbing, making fun of one another, and laughter. Jeff got the days off almost immediately, with Shawn getting his days as well.

We met up at my new house, caught up briefly, picked up some items and after some brief traffic leaving Vegas were headed North on I-15.

Campgrounds were full but we found an incredible bivy spot...didn't suck!

nice bivy spot
nice bivy spot
Credit: WML


In the morning we went to Oscar's in Springdale for breakfast...that place rocks! Cost of Denny's but 1,000,000 x better.

After that it was on to the shuttle (takes for-ev-er) to get to the Cerberus Gendarme for our dose of cragging.

We got there and it was sunny and a little warm, but not a soul in sight.

Views weren't bad for craggin'
Views weren't bad for craggin'
Credit: WML


On to the warm-up, Jeff gets his lead on Cave Crack. Fun!

Cave Crack
Cave Crack
Credit: WML

What's the opposite of low?
What's the opposite of low?
Credit: WML

Cool Cacti Circa Cave Crack
Cool Cacti Circa Cave Crack
Credit: WML

Shawn with an attentive mullet belay
Shawn with an attentive mullet belay
Credit: WML

I said the fish gon' fry in the kitchen, beans gon' burn on the grill....
I said the fish gon' fry in the kitchen, beans gon' burn on the grill...
Credit: WML

It took a whole lot'a t-r-yin' just to get up that hill
It took a whole lot'a t-r-yin' just to get up that hill
Credit: WML

Shawny was up to follow it next

Shawn cruising, venerable locks blowing in the breeze (shortly aft...
Shawn cruising, venerable locks blowing in the breeze (shortly after photo)
Credit: WML

Then I ran a lap and cleaned it and we were off climb Squeeze Play - my lead! And that route wasn't playin'

What a beautiful line and an incredible climb (one of the few times my hands have ever cramped from hand jamming), Desert Splitters don't play!!!!!!

Dirty it's our turn at bat!
Dirty it's our turn at bat!
Credit: WML

You should see me now, I'm eatin' Wheatie's now, I'm stealin' second a...
You should see me now, I'm eatin' Wheatie's now, I'm stealin' second and third and lookin' home gettin' greedy now
Credit: WML

Steep and splitter!
Steep and splitter!
Credit: WML

Squeeze Play in profile with me on it
Squeeze Play in profile with me on it
Credit: WML

While I was leading and Jeff was belaying, Shawn made friends with a lizard (and fed him a bug he killed) which he named "Lizard Bro"

'Lizard-Bro' as dubbed by Shawn.  Not sure if he was still hungry at t...
'Lizard-Bro' as dubbed by Shawn. Not sure if he was still hungry at this point or not.
Credit: WML

Shawn also found a block at the base shaped like Nevada - of import since all three of us live in the Silver State

Nevada block
Nevada block
Credit: WML

Next at bat was Shawn to second

splitter start!
splitter start!
Credit: WML


Jeff ran a lap and then we packed up and went around to Tails of Fails first pitch which weighs in solidly in the 5.10 grade. Second pitch reportedly is about 11+ - I'll wait for that one until I'm a big boy, considering that the first pitch was pretty tough as well. Desert cracks are WAY sustained!

Tails of Fails - First pitch goes at 5.10, second 11+
Tails of Fails - First pitch goes at 5.10, second 11+
Credit: WML

Starting up de pitch
Starting up de pitch
Credit: WML

Beautiful line
Beautiful line
Credit: WML

Nearing the anchors, exhausted.
Nearing the anchors, exhausted.
Credit: WML

After my go on the sustained crack, Jeff took a quick lap


Jeff at the crux
Jeff at the crux
Credit: WML

Once we were done with Tails of Fails P1, we took the shuttle back, had a beer and some chips at the river, and then had dinner at Roberto's in St. George and back to Vegas we went!


What a blast, my first time climbing any true 'desert splitters' aside from The Fox here. They are burly and SO fun! Can't wait for more trips to UT to get on 'em. Totally a different animal from some of the splitters in the valley, even.

  Trip Report Views: 1,057
WML
About the Author
WML is a purveyor of margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together) who lives to redline the fun meter

Comments
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skywalker

climber
  Apr 14, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
Wait...where's coconut corner? That's the best climb in the canyon!
;-) Well you'll have to hit that next time.

Nice!

S...
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 15, 2013 - 07:38am PT
Thanks! If it were only a party of two I was going to get on something longer, but cragging for a first trip to Zion didn't suck. Stoked to return sometime soon!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Apr 15, 2013 - 08:07am PT
WHOOOOEEEEE!!!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 15, 2013 - 08:09am PT
thanks for photos of cracks and just plain climbing content!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 15, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Jebus, the Oak Creek Boar Man may have been in the vicinity

Thanks for the comment, Darwin. Climbing content, on a climbing site....what a concept.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 15, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Very nice, I like. But Nelly? Come on, that's so 9th grade bra!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 15, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
BRUH...I'm just glad you got the reference ;-)


It came on the ipod at some point during the trip and much laughter came about.




Esp after the previous weekend's adventures and similar soundtrack thanks to someone blasting it from the parking lot (and canyons echoing things)
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Apr 15, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
Very cool! The pics are awesome!

TFPU!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Apr 15, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Nice man! Looks awesome there, wow!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 16, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
Cool, thanks!!!!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Apr 16, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
Isn't cragging in Zion a bit like going to a really good seafood place and ordering a burger?
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 21, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
Ron, only had a day and wanted to see what the hype was all about. All choss!!!!!
Definitely not coming back to that awful sandstone as soon as i can...not one bit. With the heinous approaches, horriffic logistics, and lack of stone nope. Zion sucks, stay home lololol
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 22, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Dang that looks boring!

Lame TR man...

:) -- Kovar
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 26, 2013 - 10:15am PT
kovar, it totally sucked!
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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