Pioneer Route II 5.7 C1

 
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Monkey Face


Smith Rocks, Oregon, USA


Trip Report
Poineer Route Solo (kinda) 7/17/14
Monday August 25, 2014 10:08pm
This was my first trip to Smith Rocks I was in the area for a wedding and had no partners to climb with so I chose to do a solo ascent of the Pioneer Route on Monkeys Face.
Monkey's Face From The Misery Ridge Trail.
Monkey's Face From The Misery Ridge Trail.
Credit: TahoeClimb
At The base of The Route I ran into a father son team Tom and Dave also doing Pioneer Route. For fear that they would Be Slow They were kind enough to let me pass them and climb ahead.

Pitch 1 was pretty strait forward some easy crack climbing to easy face with bolts to a big ledge called Bohn Street.

Pitch 2 the overhanging bolt ladder was the crux of the route I heard one of the bolts was missing but I really couldn't tell nor did I see any sign of a pulled bolt. There were a few reaches but I never had to top step my aiders.
Tom leading pitch 2
Tom leading pitch 2
Credit: TahoeClimb

To Save time Tom and Dave popped my directional knot for my solo belay and used my draws to climb pitch 2 witch saved me a lot of work also.
Me hanging out in the monkeys mouth.
Me hanging out in the monkeys mouth.
Credit: TahoeClimb

Pitch 3 the "panic point" pitch was very short with huge bucket holds after the step out of the monkeys mouth the panic is over and the fun climbing begins.
Tom on the 4th pitch.
Tom on the 4th pitch.
Credit: TahoeClimb
Pitch 4 was easy 5.5 I didn't place any protection.
Dave topping out on pioneer's Route.
Dave topping out on pioneer's Route.
Credit: TahoeClimb

Tom & Dave on the Summit of Monkeys Face.
Tom & Dave on the Summit of Monkeys Face.
Credit: TahoeClimb

Smokey Panoramic from Summit of Monkeys Face
Smokey Panoramic from Summit of Monkeys Face
Credit: TahoeClimb

Credit: TahoeClimb

There were 2 Rappels off. The first one was easy The second Very exposed and free hanging.

Rappel off Monkey's Face
Rappel off Monkey's Face
Credit: TahoeClimb

Credit: TahoeClimb

Overall a fun day and a good intro to Smith Rocks.

  Trip Report Views: 591
TahoeClimb
About the Author
TahoeClimb is a trad climber from Westside of the Eastside.

Comments
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whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Aug 26, 2014 - 07:22am PT
Nice pics, looks like a fun trip! I can't wait until I get to go!!

TFPU
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Aug 26, 2014 - 09:34am PT
Nice way to enjoy a day on the rocks without the need for a partner.

TFPU.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 26, 2014 - 01:36pm PT

Good for you for getting on it! It is a good route. Some of those bolt kind of freaked me out. As I recall, they were giant but often so loose that kind of sloped down in the bolt hole.

It sounds like you and the other party were about the same speed, and that y'all had a good day and interactions on the route.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 26, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
Cool! I was in the area about 20 years ago in similar circumstances (reunion of family on my wife's side), but too stupid to bring my climbing gear. Way to do it right.

John
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
  Aug 26, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
I've soloed that route a bunch of times.... usually starting with West Side Variation to get up to the notch for a more interesting free climbing start. I have always just daisyed into the bolts one at a time. testing my karma I guess. I think I would figure out a more redundant system if I was to do it again. I miss Smith.

good on you
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Aug 26, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
Good on ya. Now you just need to do the West face, its da bomb!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 26, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
Cool!!!, smookin!!!
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Monkey Face - Pioneer Route II 5.7 C1 - Smith Rocks, Oregon, USA. Click to Enlarge
Liberty Crack is the left red line.
Photo: Joe Puryear