Trip Report
Player's Ball - Red Rock + Zion (Photo Intensive)

by WML
Tuesday January 7, 2014 12:22am
Trying to put the five days of this 'trip' into a coherent and cogent stream of thought is rather difficult. Lots of good friends that have spanned the past decade of my life were involved, and the depth and duration of the relationships always greatly enhances the quality of a climbing adventure. Add to that quality new editions to the crew and it makes absolutely quality company.

I will try to make this a bit less of a stream of consciousness and a touch less lucid, but try is all we can do.

Just before Christmas I went to Connecticut to visit my family back there. During this trip 213 (Ben) and I decided that it would be a prime time for him to come down and climb in Red Rock. I was off work until the 2nd of January, the weather patterns aligned, and I had other friends coming to town as well. Ben mentored me into climbing 4 1/2 years ago (good lord, it's been that long?) when we were both living in Reno. My tenure in the Biggest Little City came to an end in March and Ben hadn't been down to climb at Red Rock since my arrival. That finally changed.

The soundtrack:



Christmas morning and my girlfriend was working, Christmas Dinner at my Dad's wasn't until after she was off work, so I went to the Kraft Boulders for a quick session. No pics, but a fun time on the mellow circuit. After this I reached out to AJ who was in town from Reno as well and set up plans to climb with him and his girlfriend Shannon the next day. AJ loves to do this annual thing where climbing occurs in plain sight of the pullouts the day after Christmas dressed up in santa suits - always eliciting amusing responses from confused tourists. I would show pics, but AJ has yet to send them to me. Will post once I get some!

We went to the Civilization Crags (not in the Handren guide, newer crag developed by Michael Kimm et al) which provided quality movement on some excellent stone. We climbed some really fun low 5.10 sport climbs and a few more moderate routes there, names escape me at the moment. Great spot for when temperatures are such that you want varied aspect - too warm for direct sun all day, but too cool for pure shade.

That evening Ben rolled into town from Reno, Shane rolled into town from Anaheim, and the next morning it would be Shane and Jon on one rope and Ben and I on the other doing the super fun, super cruisy Myster-Z to Armatron link-up.


Fairly early the next morning Jon came over and we all took off from my place to the Pine Creek Trailhead to start up Myster-Z

Man the scene was so thick <br/>
Low riders, seventy-seven Sevilles, El Da...
Man the scene was so thick
Low riders, seventy-seven Sevilles, El Dawgs
Nuttin but them 'llacs
All the players, all the hustlers
Credit: WML

Gots no snowy weather, have to find something to do better bet
Gots no snowy weather, have to find something to do better bet
Credit: WML

I made it through another year can't ask for nothing much more <br/>
It's ...
I made it through another year can't ask for nothing much more
It's OutKast for the boots I thought you knew so now you know
Let's go
Credit: WML

Looking toward Juniper Canyon, our destination, from the approach.
Looking toward Juniper Canyon, our destination, from the approach.
Credit: WML

We roped up for Myster Z after I fumbled the approach.

Me: "Guys, I swear I've done this thing before, it starts just over here..."

Repeat that a few times and I finally remembered where the route started when I had done it last in September or October.

Myster Z went pretty quickly, including a nice hang out and BS session on the Solar Deck mid-route. Some simul-climbing and we were all hanging out at the top of the route enjoying the incredible views

All the players came from far and wide <br/>
Wearing afros and braids, kic...
All the players came from far and wide
Wearing afros and braids, kicking them gangsta vibes
Now I'm here to tell you there's a better day
When the player's ball is happening, all day ery'day
Credit: WML


Myster-Z, in my opinion, is the best approach for routes on the Brownstone Wall. In addition to providing quality, mellow movement on mostly great rock, with stellar views (as if that isn't enough), it saves you the huff-puff-n-grunt-fest of going up Juniper Canyon.

After a brief bit of hanging out, Shane and Jon took off for P1 of Armatron, a classic with some super unique rock!

View of the Rainbow Wall.  A beautiful chunk of stone
View of the Rainbow Wall. A beautiful chunk of stone
Credit: WML

TRACK 2 -



Jerseys? Check. Headbands? Check. Music blaring out the locker room? Check.

On to Armatron, Jon and Shane up to bat!

Jon following Shane up P1 of Armatron
Jon following Shane up P1 of Armatron
Credit: WML

Ben and I getting ready to get started
Ben and I getting ready to get started
Credit: WML

Ben leading P1 of Armatron, Shane and Jon ahead.
Ben leading P1 of Armatron, Shane and Jon ahead.
Credit: WML

More sweet Rainbow Wall views - the main corner system holds the Origi...
More sweet Rainbow Wall views - the main corner system holds the Original Route.
Credit: WML

Obligatory shoe shot atop P2 of Armatron
Obligatory shoe shot atop P2 of Armatron
Credit: WML

Shane leading the unique P3
Shane leading the unique P3
Credit: WML

Ben following P2
Ben following P2
Credit: WML

Ben leading P3 of Armatron
Ben leading P3 of Armatron
Credit: WML

Selfie up high on the route &#40;wtf nosebleed?&#41;
Selfie up high on the route (wtf nosebleed?)
Credit: WML

Credit: WML
WML belaying 213 on P3 of Armatron

213 making moves
213 making moves
Credit: WML

View of Las Vegas from the route
View of Las Vegas from the route
Credit: WML

After the uber-classic P3 we decided that we would rap. Jon was supposed to be at work fairly shortly (he was called off, thankfully, as he would have been late as hell) and it was getting a bit dark. A day is considered to be casual so long as no headlamps are employed on the approach or descent - and that day was causal!

Armatron was fantastic, each of the three pitches we did of it were of high quality in position, movement, quality of stone, and naturally company.

These two routes were my first multi-pitch routes since my back injury about a month and a half earlier. This week my back had been giving me some pain. In the back of my mind the entire time was "I hope to God I don't have to use the pain pills and muscle relaxers in my "oh sh#t kit." I hadn't experienced any spasms since a week after the initial injury and had experienced some sharp pain on Christmas Day on my bouldering circuit, but the day of sport climbing was affirmation to me that I would be alright to go for a long day, and thankfully i was.

Nothing like hitting the hot tub for a few drinks and to watch a bowl game after a long day in the hills. We did that and decided cragging would be the ticket the next day.

Shane had to leave for Anaheim fairly early, Jon had work, and we had a few other friends in town. Pablo and Jorge wanted to go cragging, along with Jorge's dog. We went to Icebox Canyon since we were lazy and didn't want to walk very far and it was my first time at the Sunnyside Crags. Ben lead the classic Mister Masters and we TR'd the SUPER classic Spring Break (5.11+) after. Wowsers! Awesome climbing.

Jorge & Puppy
Jorge & Puppy
Credit: WML

Ben leading Mister Masters
Ben leading Mister Masters
Credit: WML

No pics of Spring Break, unfortunately. It is pictured in the Handren guidebook and some great pics of it on MP. Stellar movement on that one as well. Mister Masters is one of the steepest 5.9's I have EVER climbed. Pump-fiesta!

After climbing Mister Masters, Shane returned to Anaheim and Pablo and Jorge went off to watch the UFC fights that evening. Ben and I went home to some great dinner cooked by my girlfriend and had to be up early when Jon would be over and we would head off to Zion.



Fails of Power was first on the list...Ben's first Zion splitter!

Whatcha gon' do? GHOST RIDE IT!
Whatcha gon' do? GHOST RIDE IT!
Credit: WML

Pull up, hop out, all in one motion - dancin' on the hood while the ca...
Pull up, hop out, all in one motion - dancin' on the hood while the car's still rollin'
Credit: WML

Great shot by Jon of Ben on Fails of Power
Great shot by Jon of Ben on Fails of Power
Credit: WML

Encountering the crux of the route
Encountering the crux of the route
Credit: WML

A cool party of two &#40;Father-Son I think&#41; from SLC warming up o...
A cool party of two (Father-Son I think) from SLC warming up on Cherry Crack, another rad climb on the Cerberus Gendarme
Credit: WML

A beautiful place to crag
A beautiful place to crag
Credit: WML

The cragging at the base of the Cerberus Gendarme is fantastic. The Cookie Cliff of Zion, I'd venture to say. Laps were had by all on Fails of Power to the first anchors - that thing is about as good as it gets for single pitch. After some lounging, it was time to hop on a route I had been spooked from hopping on before due to technique deficits on my behalf. I am terrible at laybacking and hate to do it on lead. One of the most beautiful looking routes on the Cerberus Gendarme is Scarlet Begonias, a jam crack with power laybacking cruxes. Off I went!

WML starting up Scarlet Begonias.  Jon belaying
WML starting up Scarlet Begonias. Jon belaying
Credit: WML

Lifestyle.
Lifestyle.
Credit: WML

Irie cactus
Irie cactus
Credit: WML

working under the flake
working under the flake
Credit: WML

WML leading Scarlet Begonias
WML leading Scarlet Begonias
Credit: WML

WML on the upper section of Scarlet Begonias
WML on the upper section of Scarlet Begonias
Credit: WML

After this route we decided to 'call it' on our day trip to Zion and head back to Summerlin. The mission of our quick trip to Zion was more to whet the appetite of Ben and Jon, who had never been there. Mission accomplished, as the stoke was high!

Roadside views in Zion don't suck
Roadside views in Zion don't suck
Credit: WML

The final day of climbing on the trip was mostly bouldering in the Kraft Boulders as well as a little bit in Gateway Canyon.

Ben on the Ultimate Grandstaff problem
Ben on the Ultimate Grandstaff problem
Credit: WML

Ben on the Ultimate Grandstaff problem, Jon spotting
Ben on the Ultimate Grandstaff problem, Jon spotting
Credit: WML

Jon on the Pork Chop Boulder
Jon on the Pork Chop Boulder
Credit: WML

Ben on the Pork Chop
Ben on the Pork Chop
Credit: WML

Ben on the crux moves of the Alexisizer
Ben on the crux moves of the Alexisizer
Credit: WML

After a successful thrashing on the boulders, we went back to my house where we finally got to use the fire pit that Shane was generous enough to give us (he already had one).

The fire pit was a raucous bit of discourse, as one always should be, with many laughs had among friends and generous amounts of libations enjoyed.

Credit: WML


While not much of a 'trip' for me, I am very grateful that two of my friends made the trip solely to climb (Ben and Shane) and that two others took time on family trips to climb (Jorge and Pablo) after a considerable amount of time away from climbing.

Thank you for reading & Sorry for interrupting the political banter (inane babble?) and name-calling

  Trip Report Views: 999
WML
About the Author
WML is a purveyor of premium malt liquor beverages, margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together, nor necessarily in that order) who lives to redline the fun meter

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
  Jan 7, 2014 - 07:26am PT
Great trip report!
Myster Z to Armatron is a great link up.
I have done it twice and agree about using Myster Z as
the approach to Brownstone Wall..
Definitely the way to go..
Linked the 2 pitches of Armatron's amazing and unique
patina face last trip with an 80 meter rope to create
a fantastic 240 foot pitch of pure joy..
Awesome pictures Weston!!

Also I love Cerberus Gendarme for Zion cragging!
All of those splitters are really good!
I personally liked Fat-hedral at .10d and Randy Leavitt's
Intruder at .11c the best..
But Scarlett Begonias and Fails of Power are both great too..
Great Trip Report, you always deliver the goods..
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 7, 2014 - 08:40am PT
Looks a little nicer than the -11 far. we had a couple of days ago. What have the temps been down there. Need to get back and take the Jack to Red Rocks. I think he would really like it.... who doesn't?
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jan 7, 2014 - 08:47am PT
Thanks homeslice!

Good stuff.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 7, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
Rollover,

You should have seen the sales pitch I was putting on Ben and Jon to go do Intruder. I had lead it two weeks prior and feel that it is one of the best single pitches I have done anywhere. Sooo good! Fat Hedral is on my list for my next trip out there, same with Flip of a Coin. Excited for temps to warm up there so that I can hop on some of the fun looking 11 stuff on the Tunnel Wall and other areas that catch shade.

BTW, do I know you? bein' from vegas and all...small community and whatnot.

--------------------------



Thanks for the comments everyone, I put a lot of work into this thing so always appreciate it. Just trying to get people psyched to get out there and have fun!
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Jan 7, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
RR to Zion link-up. Great idea and TR.

Those plates on Armatron are awsome.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jan 7, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
Fun stuff, WML!

Never been to Zion. Travesty :(.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 7, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
Sending the gnar brah! More selfies!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jan 7, 2014 - 03:33pm PT

Man the scene was so thick
Low riders, seventy-seven Sevilles, El Dawgs
Nuttin but them 'llacs
All the players, all the hustlers

probably the best caption ever for a picture of a white guy from Connecticut playing some white-guy sports with his white-guy friends .
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jan 7, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
They white boys do love their hippity hops.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Jan 7, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
Great TR.

Knowing Ben, I get the jersey comment and I now see a common theme with your TR titles and putting in rap vids in trip report. 213 mentored you well. :)

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 8, 2014 - 02:52am PT
That Stash looks 70s pimp!!!!
Thanks for the TR, love those places!!!!
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Jan 8, 2014 - 09:03am PT
Fun trip! Thanks!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jan 8, 2014 - 11:59am PT
Nice....very nice! You know how to get thru the winter.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 8, 2014 - 03:11pm PT
Thanks everyone!

Sending the gnar brah! More selfies!

Naturally, brah! Need more mock leading as well...brah.

probably the best caption ever for a picture of a white guy from Connecticut playing some white-guy sports with his white-guy friends .

I do what I can.

They white boys do love their hippity hops.



Knowing Ben, I get the jersey comment and I now see a common theme with your TR titles and putting in rap vids in trip report. 213 mentored you well. :)

Thanks! Had no idea you knew Ben - indeed, I was mentored well. Never take yoself too seriously and redline the fun meter!

That Stash looks 70s pimp!!!!
Thanks for the TR, love those places!!!!

Jon's stash is classic. Hilarious! Thanks for the comment, RR and Zion don't suck!

Nice....very nice! You know how to get thru the winter.

Jim, we do what we can to get through the day ;-) Thank you for the nice comment
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jan 8, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
Nice one WML, looks like some really killer stone! Wow!
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
Bump
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
Desert splitter bump
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