Trip Report
Party-Walling The Warrior & Rainbow Country
Monday July 7, 2014 12:56pm
Here are the earlier reports about some of the climbs I did over the two trips to RR in April 2014:
Red Rock pt. 1: Epinephrine (IV 5.9)
Mt. Wilson - Inti Watana to Resolution Arete (V 5.10+)
Red Rock pt 3: Levitation 29 (III 5.11c)
Pt 4. Texas Tower Direct to Texas Hold'Em to Lone Star link up (V 5.12 A0)
Pt 5. Cloud Tower Direct 5.11d A0

Two hard days of climbing took toll on our bodies. Our fingers were especially trashed, so we decided to climb one of the best crack climbs in Red Rock – The Warrior. Alix and Jim joined the party and we ended up having a blast climbing the route as a party wall. People on Mountainproject made the approach sound fairly intimidating but we ended up getting to the base in an hour and a half.


L to R: Alix, Me, Jim and Luke on top of ThweWarrior


Mt. Wilson and Cactus Flower Tower


Luke sending the approach. Scrambling about to begin.


Me following the 5.10d pitch


Jim having to much fun

“There a different kinds of approaches for the classics of RR. There are long ones(Rainbow Wall), confusing or complicated ones(levitation), strenuous but straightforward ones(Cloud Tower), and then there are approaches where you arrive at the climb so exhausted from such heinous schwaking and mandatory 5th class groveling up chimneys and moss slabs it seems like a 5 pitch extension of the climb itself(Warrior).”
–Dramatic description of the approach from MP


Alix crushing


Me starting the crux pitch


Luke starting up the 6th pitch with Eagle wall behind him


Jim having too much fun, again


Luke crushing

The route itself was fairly fun. First five pitches involved fun chimneying, awesome fist jamming and a climb through a giant bird nest. When I was leading the bird nest pitch the bird went nuts and I thought it was actually a pterodactyl. Fortunately I survived the pitch and was able to onsight the crux (5.11a fingers/stem), which involved a long 5.8 runout for some added excitement. My favorite pitch of the route was probably the long 5.10d fist-jamming corner that Luke got. His excitement didn’t end there since he led the last two pitches that had giant runouts on your typical Red Rock crumble. In any case we thought those pitches were actually solid and fairly fun. Alix and Jim were perfect models and we took a gazillion photos of them climbing. We ended the day at Four Guys and Yogurtland. Everybody sent, everybody had fun everybody got their stomach full (as I remember by the time I was done with half of my burger, Alix finished two!) and we can probably agree it was a really fun day!


Luke stemming. 4th pitch of Rainbow Country/Wall


Rainbow Wall


Luke and Rainbow wall


Awesome crack on Rainbow Country. I thought it would spit me off but it turned out to be doable


Me leading the 5.11b (?) overhang on Rainbow Country

Next up Luke and I took a rest day before going up to Challenger wall and climbing Jupiter II. The run-outs there gave both of us some mental stimulation. The physical stimulation was also there, seemed like the routes were a little less soft and not fuzzy at all. For me, low point of the trip was being frozen in a stance, unable to make a slabby move with a tiny sloping slippery crimp. The foothold I was standing on was not at all where I wanted it to be and I wasted about ten minutes trying and getting frustrated. To my surprise I did not fall and I stuck the move in the end. The frustration I got from being unable to move had me close to a full on meltdown. In any case, Luke wrote about the day of climbing at the Challenger HERE.


Luke enjoying the route


Luke starting the crux pitch of Rainbow Country. Can't see it here, but the first moves themselves were mid 5.11


Some creeper giving me 'the look'


Following first crux pitch in red dihedral

Last day of climbing at Red Rocks was one of the best. Even though Luke has done the Rainbow Wall on a prior trip, he was game to get on Rainbow County. It avoids the easier pitches of Rainbow Wall and substitutes them with two pitches of mid 5.11, one pitch of 5.12 and the crux 5.12+ pitch. On this day, I was able to crush only a few things. One of them fortunately was the approach. I did sent a few 5.11 pitches on the route, but I wasn’t even close to getting the 5.12+ pitch on Rainbow Country clean.


Luke following the 2nd crux pitch (5.12) in red dihedral


Cool position


Luke practicing his stemming. Linking the last two "easy" pitches to the summit


Summit!!!


Views


Us happy to be done with our last climb at RR! Time to get some frozen yogurt, drive home and recover our skin.

Having climbed 10 pitches up to 5.12+, only one of which was a 5.10, I did not manage to lead the crux pitch of Rainbow Wall clean. Not enough juice. But even with a few hangs in the lower section I put up a fight and was happy about putting together the moves to get through the middle and upper sections of the pitch clean. Small victories also matter. The route was one of the best I had done in my life and I can't wait for 2015 to give Rainbow Wall a try. Crux pitch of Rainbow Country seemed way above my head, and it will be at least a few (or 10) years till I have any desire to lead that. In any case, I loved climbing at Red Rock and hope to be back there in 2015!

  Trip Report Views: 1,580
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
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whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
That's awesome! Makes me want to go to red rocks! Great pics!! TFPU
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
You guys look like you had entirely too much fun. Great pictures of great routes. Thanks much.

John
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Jul 7, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
WHOA BRAH. WHY WAIT TILL 15? Rocktober here rocks dude!

It was great getting to hang out with you guys while ya'll were out here, you guys crushed! #CRUSHERSGONNACRUSH

Seriously though, git back out here for Fall...
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Jul 7, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
Great TR Vitaliy. Awesome pics too.

TFPU!

Andrzej
pc

climber
  Jul 7, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
Nice TR.

But I thought this was going to be about Russ.

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
Nice, V, nice.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
Beautiful pitches, beautiful views, makes me want to be a 5.11 climber.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
Awesome stuff people! Red Rocks has just insanely beautiful miltipich routes.


btw, Are you all sponsored by some energy drink Co?
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Jul 7, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Great climbing and pics. That group shot is insane.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
  Jul 7, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
I tried Rainbow Country a while back. It was a spectacular route, and a much cleaner harder version of the Regular Route. I cruised it all, except one 10' section about halfway (?) up the crux pitch which seemed damn near impossible and couldn't even speculate how to free it. How did that feel to you guys? Luke, did you get those moves? If so, I'll have to hit you up for how, because I was STUMPED! Nice work getting on a load of classics. Red Rocks is amazing!

Josh
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jul 7, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
Damn, dude, you basically get done what I plan on getting on a trip before realizing I'm far too lazy and skilless to get the business done. Well played! I'm exhausted just reading of your exploits.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Jul 7, 2014 - 04:27pm PT
When I grow up I want to be an annoying gym climber from SF.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 7, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
Witness the sickness!

You kids sure know how to pardy!

"We ended the day at Four Guys and Yogurtland."
By the way, its FIVE Guys. You left out a guy.
Credit: micronut

#climbcracksandgetheartattacks
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
yes!

look forward to roping up with you guys some day, its bound to happen
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jul 7, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
Great TR, thanks for sharing and thanks for the links to your other climbs. Loved it.
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jul 7, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
Crushing son!!! TFPU!
MikeL

Social climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 7, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
Wonderful TR. Very envious. Great job.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 7, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
Proud and strong!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 7, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
Josh, the crux stretch on that pitch stopped us both. No idea how to free it to be honest. Maybe in several years I will try it again and it will not feel as bad, but I think it would take years till I can do 12th clean.

Haha micronut, good catch
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 7, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
Nice! Absolutely beautiful photos!!!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Jul 7, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
I always enjoy your TR's, Vitaliy... always...
and f*#king rad photos.
Your stoke is contagious!

~peace, Leggs
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Jul 7, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
Vitally, as usual, you guys are out there having all the fun. thanks for sharing some.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jul 7, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
Damn, some nice looking climbing!!!


The warrior looks mega, rainbow country too. Great TR V!
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
  Jul 8, 2014 - 07:08am PT
I checked the Roxanna Brock guide, and I was talking about the 9th 12d pitch, not the 12th 12b pitch. The 12th pitch (last hard one) has some relatively powerful underclinging/traversing that is tricky, but the pitch that blew my mind in difficulty was the crux on the Rainbow Country variation. It was so hard, that I wasn't even inspired to ever go back and try it again until I talked to someone who freed it, which I haven't found yet...

In any case, nice work guys! You're tearing it up as usual. Your pictures make me want to go hop on The Warrior. What a great looking crack!

Josh
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Jul 8, 2014 - 07:55am PT
Stupid auto correct. I was talking about the 12d crux as well.
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