Trip Report
Part 2 Dolomite Adventure
Thursday December 2, 2010 3:21pm
This is part 2 of my Dolomite rock adventure

Part 1 is here

Part 1.

After leaving the Tre Cime I easily found the bus that would take me to Trento. I figured all I needed was one night but after a shower and a night in an air conditioned hotel I realized I was much more tired than I thought. I had some blisters, some of my gear was breaking down and I was just generally tired, I had been climbing for 2 weeks. So the two nights I had to refresh were well
worth it.

Brenta Range

Credit: Hoser

As expected,after missing a summer trip last year Toby showed up rarin to go. Fully stocked up including multiple bottles of whiskey we quickly made tracks for the Brenta range.



We figure we should get him warmed up so we choose the friendly V 12 pitch South face Via Keine




The summit as usual has a statue of Mary



The next day we decide to check out the Campanille Basso. The route takes the obvious groove to the shoulder below the summit right at the pointy rock.

The Fehrman V+ 13 pitches



The climbing was superb and Toby was finding his groove.



On the advice of some Italians we decided to forgoe the summit in favour of getting on the descent route first. The raps are steep and its the same descent for all routes so it can get busy at the end of the day.

Toby on rap 4 of 9.



Then after some discussion we decided to move camp to Rifugio Pedrotti. Pedrotti and Tossa can be seen in the distance; bottom left and upper right.



The weather was crap but we decided to take advantage of a sucker hole and run up Cima Marguerita, unfortunately it was a small window and we were forced off at the halfway point.

good times while it was good though!



After that we went back to the hut and planned for the big route. Route finding in the dolomites is trying at the best of times,therefore I generally like to stick to the ridges. So I have no idea how we decided that a route that is labelled "very difficult route finding" made it on to the list. There ended up being three traverses across this big intimidating face, put up in 1934 by the famous Bruno Detasis, VI- 21 pitches

The NE face in early morning light, what a route! The route starts just left of the snow patch at the base on the far right.



The face was steeep!!







Route finding was very difficult and for sure added to the stress of an already intimidating route, always second geussing your place on the face. Then when the clouds and rain moved in we just wanted it to be over, somehow there is always one more pitch. At the top we were frazzled, but we still had some daylight for the descent. We missed dinner so instead we sucked on power gels as we fell asleep in our bunks.

The summit frazzle



The next day all we wanted was food and more food, if you have been to Italy you know breakfast is not one of their strong points. So after some bread with jam we were off to find pizza and beer in the city.



Next stop was to go back to the Pala range, I wanted to do a Buhl route and Toby wanted on the 20 pitch Gran Pilaster.

The Gran Pilaster takes the sky line to the right on the biggest peak, just left of the snow patch on the right is the start.



Interestingly the route in the lower half is mainly in chimneys, Toby gets ready to enter while some dudes who ended up being kinda weird are already situated in the chimney above.



The trick to be able to stay on route is to make sure both climbers have photocopies of the route. As we left the chimneys we emerged onto the face, I stopped to see where we were and how far we had to go..



The route itself was easy and enjoyable, the descent was another story. We actually had to descend the serrated ridge to the right, 5 of those towers had to be turned and each one was taking time. I really had no desire to repeat my gel for dinner adventure again.



The plan originally was to head back get some rest and head for the Buhl route the following day, the night prior the hut warden mentioned we had not made a reservation for a busy Saturday night. Not to worry though, I belong to the CAI and they must provide me with emergency accomodation. Toby and I talked about what that may be: the generator room, the food shed, possibly the beautiful handmaidens quarters...

Well I suppose it could always be worse, although at the time I was at a loss for what that might be.

Our mats in front of the bathrooms on a busy sat night, we did not climb the next day...



Oh man the Buhl route looked so good, and now with the weather forecast to crap out the next day we were pretty bummed.

The Buhl on the Cima Canali, takes the line just right of the obvious water streak in the centre of the photo
mmm goodness!!



As a consolation prize, we decided to head up another Detasis line, this time on the Cima Wilma.

The route takes the yellow pillar in front and then descends the major left to right ramp on the face.



The route was a great way to end the trip, highly enjoyable!



I have dropped nuts and a cam before and felt pretty bummed, I bet this guy felt alot worse at dropping these.

I found these near the base



After that it was just one more crappy breakfast, how these guys climb these routes on this just blows my mind. I think I have this Dolomite thing figured out, but I have not cracked the breakfast thing. Pop tarts only last so long...

Nutella, three packets of jam, maybe some schinken creme if your lucky



Toby and I managed 80 pitches, which made a total of 153 pitches and ten peaks for my 2010 Dolomite tour. A very grand adventure!!

Slide show of all photos are here

Slide Show.

Individual pics here

Individual.

Then just like that I was in Turkey fishing for Dorado on my girlfriends dads boat.





If your interested the slideshow is here

Slideshow

Pics here

Pics

After that it was time to head back to the mountains, this time my long time friend Dom and I decided to ride motorbikes across the alps. We started at his place in Barcelona ripped across France until Albertville where we headed into the Alps. After that it was 10 days and 3500 km of AMAZING alpine riding until we reached the end of the Alps in Slovenia. A small ride through Tuscany to the coast then an overnight ferry back to Barcelona wrapped up the tour.

I wont write TR since it motorbiking, but here are few pics. We managed to camp most of the way.









Slideshow here

Slideshow

Pics here

Pics

Then some cragging in Spain and I went home two months after I left, now what to do next summer...the Julian Alps in Slovenia look real purdy and cheap...



  Trip Report Views: 2,011
Hoser
About the Author
Hoser is a climber from Canada

Comments
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PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Dec 2, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
Great trip report!
Wonderful pictures and stories.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Dec 2, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
Completely and totally rad!

TFPU!

eKat
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 2, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
Awesome Ya Hoser!
You Canuks seem to have that whole living thing figured out!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Dec 2, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
Wow, living the life! Great!
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
  Dec 2, 2010 - 07:03pm PT
I am so envious!
I love Europe and you brought back so many good memories.
Enjoy your youth as you can always be a responsible citizen
later on. Work will always be there.


tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Dec 2, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
Thanks for the trip report. The Dolomites look incredible. Slovenia too. I have to say I'm jealous.

Take of eh? Hoser.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
  Dec 2, 2010 - 09:09pm PT
Ohhhhhhhhh I wanna go there!
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Dec 3, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
Great TR!
Congrats on accomplishing so very much.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Dec 3, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
Wowza, thanks for posting. What are you, some kind of trustfunder? Self made millionaire? Thats some serious free time you got there...
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
You know what man, I am a hard worker from a single mom! She taught me well. :)

In my other TR I mentioned that I had to work 18 hours a day for the entire Olympic games. I asked work to allow me to bank the entire OT in time off. That included with my regular vaction time, 1 month, allowed me to take the entire summer off.

For sure I had it easy with a few friends and my GF parents in Europe allowing me to have many free nights accomodation when I was not climbing. But being climbers and boards like this allow us all to have some friends most anywhere we go..you just gotta go for it eh?

So the huts are 10 euros a night and the dinners are about 10 euros, the more you climb the less you eat and drink :)

Not including the flights or the motorbike, the trip averaged 50 euros a day for the entire two months, so 3 G's. That being said the round trip from Barcelona Vancouver was 799 CAD, and the Bike was 50 euros a day, so 500 euros total. Totally within reason for anybody with an ok job.

Wish I was a trust funder, but nah just workin hard like everyone else.

Thanks for the kind comments, and ya totally doable for us mortals!
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Dec 3, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
I was just razzin ya because I'm jealous! Sounds like you had a well deserved rad vacation. Thanks again for posting up, I'm sure your pics will inspire others to climb the Dolomites. You put in on my list for sure.

Kalen.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Mar 4, 2011 - 07:54am PT
Seems time to invoke:

"At either end of the social spectrum lies a leisure class" - Beck, but it is derived from "The Theory of the Leisure Class" by Thorstein Veblen. (see http://dev.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=268647&tn=40

God, I wish I were young again, I think. It's not lack of money that prevents at least me from doing a trip like this. I'll leave it at that for now.

skywalker

climber
  Dec 3, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
bump. Did you run into map/ language barriers? We had that near the Sella group. We had issues with German/ Italian names. Apparently a WWII (earlier?) thing in terms of influence.

We had to switch languages.

Cheers...

S...
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Dec 3, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
Ur the Euro James Bond... oh wait, . Awesome TR man. That is already the trip of a life tyme.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
  Dec 4, 2010 - 01:21am PT
Wow. Some day...
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Dec 4, 2010 - 12:52pm PT
A wonderful trip report that brought back some wonderful memories for me.
Re: the German/Italian thing: It goes back to W.W-I when parts of what is now Italy were Austrian territory. Most of the town names are posted in BOTH languages, and German is spoken by most folks there. The area in question is Sued Tirol (South Tirol). In the 1960's when I was there, a terrorist movement was in full swing. Alpini Mountain troops carrying Beretta submachine guns were everywhere, guarding tunnels and bridges from bombers.
John Morton

climber
  Dec 5, 2010 - 12:24am PT
Thanks for an excellent and well illustrated report. I remember that barbed wire on the summit ridges, an astounding and sobering sight.

I and three other young Yosemite lads made a brief Dolomite tour in 1965 - it remains a highlight of my climbing career. We had no notion of what to expect, other than the terrifying accounts of Buhl and Gervasutti. This was before the first Europeans and Brits came to the Valley, and I don't think we had ever met anyone who had climbed there. It was a tremendous relief and a great joy to find that the epic Comici and Cassin N face routes on the Tre Cime were regular one day climbs for us. And it was 1965 - no other parties on the routes, no pesky helmets.

John
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Dec 5, 2010 - 06:14am PT
hey there say, hoser..... this is wonderful.... very nice hearing this trip....

say, best wishes with the slide show, etc...

also, my mom's folks were from slovenia... (haha, perhaps that is why the love of the rocks flows in me, chappy and the rest of us! ) ;)

love them alps.... :)


well, if you have a few picks of slovenia, specifically, and you don't mind sharing, can you email me a few, for nostalgia-sake...
:)


thanks so much, if not, that's fine, too... but thought it would be neat to share them with my mom....

god bless... :)

thanks again for the great report here, loved the feel of the first pic, starting this off, too...
:)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Mar 28, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
Great TR. Awesome photos.
divad

Trad climber
wmass
  Mar 28, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
Nice. It's hard to take a bad picture there....
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Mar 28, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Man, great TR! I'm so jonesing for some quality choss! Next year looks
likely but how to decide which routes?

Nutella - gag me!
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