Trip Report
Paradise Alley (Shortoff, Linville Gorge)
Monday November 22, 2010 2:15am
Last weekend, I had such a blast being introduced to Shortoff in Linville Gorge, Vic and I headed back for the day today. Shortoff is really cool; about an hour or so from the parking lot, there are great, large, wild campsites overlooking the gorge and a ridge with dozens of established four-or-so-pitch climbs. You access the ridge via a pretty wild climber's trail. Last weekend, we cut our teeth on "Maginot Line," a classic, exposed four-pitch 5.7+ featuring steep positive face and a stemmy corner.

Today Vic had a project in mind, "Paradise Alley," supposed to be just a step above "Maginot" at 5.8+.

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Credit: yosguns
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P1 Paradise Alley, Shortoff
P1 Paradise Alley, Shortoff
Credit: yosguns
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After following Vic up pitch 1, I exclaimed, "I just don't understand this type of rock!!" The pitch was beautiful liebacking and stemming in a steep corner handcrack. It certainly was steeper than what I'm used to and the gear is quite different. Linville Gorge is hard quartzite, which I imagine Shortoff is too (being a part of the gorge). It doesn't seem as hard as granite, but the edges are SHARP. There are lots of shallow, horizontal cracks that flare unexpectedly. We're still getting used to how things work around here.

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I just...don't UNDERSTAND this rock.
I just...don't UNDERSTAND this rock.
Credit: yosguns
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I had a lot of fun learning how to use Vic's camera, which he just got for his birthday. At the bottom of the ridge, the rhododendrons weren't blooming, but at the top of pitch 1, there were a few flowers!

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Credit: yosguns
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Pitch two was wandering and there was an awkward traverse over a bulge. Pitch three was pretty neat! An overhanging wall with huge, positive jugs. I can't imagine getting on something that overhanging in the Valley!

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Credit: yosguns
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Credit: yosguns
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The foliage across the gorge was spectacular as the sun got lower in the sky.

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Credit: yosguns
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I was surprised to see only yellow leaves still glimmering. All the red leaves which were so prominent last week had fallen. We got some rain midweek and I think only the yellow ones are still holding on. In a photo from last week, there's a bit more red:

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Leaves a week before the rain.
Leaves a week before the rain.
Credit: yosguns
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The last pitch was quite an...overhanging surprise.

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Credit: yosguns
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Shadow fun.
Shadow fun.
Credit: yosguns
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And the rhododendrons on top were in full bloom.

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Credit: yosguns
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We enjoyed a quiet walk back to the car. I played with the camera some more. Didn't manage to get a good moon picture with our point-and-shoot, but I'll keep trying!!

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Credit: yosguns
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The whole day the Blue Ridge was peaking from beyond the gorge.

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Credit: yosguns
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Shot the moon.
Shot the moon.
Credit: yosguns
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Shortoff is quickly becoming a favorite climbing place for me. Today, we didn't see any other climbers. The solitude was quite nice. We enjoyed some burgers in the nearby town on our way home. I'm looking forward to next time!






  Trip Report Views: 3,948
yosguns
About the Author
yosguns is a climber from Durham, NC.

Comments
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Nov 22, 2010 - 10:03am PT
Cool-looking rock !
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Nov 22, 2010 - 10:16am PT
Nice! I learned to climb all around the Linville area getting on 35 years ago now. You can climb some steep rock at a moderate grade out there and as is obvious from the photos it is a beautiful part of the country. Thanks for posting the report.
CubicleNation

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
  Nov 22, 2010 - 10:18am PT
Thanks for posting up.

Climbed there in about 1986 before I moved out west. I don't remember what we did but it was pretty steep.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 22, 2010 - 10:19am PT
Great! I climbed in Linville Gorge a few years ago and loved it.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  Nov 22, 2010 - 10:54am PT
Thanks for the TR, yosguns! Where exactly is that located? Looks really cool.
Trevor

Gym climber
Escondido, CA
  Nov 22, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
I agree with the unexpected steepness, I just came out here from CA, 5.5 overhangs? What the Hell?!
sportcamper

Trad climber
seattle
  Nov 22, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
A special place for sure. thanks for the post, and a reminder that i should head down there again soon!
yosguns

climber
Author's Reply  Nov 22, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
Mooser,

Shortoff is in Pisgah National Forest on the western end of Linville Gorge in western North Carolina. The closest town is Morganton, NC (where we got hamburgers). There's a north and south side to the area. "Maginot Line" is at Shortoff South and "Paradise Alley" is at North.


Rc.com directions:

The hiking up to Shortoff is a little grueling, but not bad enough to keep most away. There are free campsites located at the top and a mountain spring coming out of the rock on the approach, located at the descent gully. To get there from I-40, take exit 100 north (Jamestown Rd) 1.5 miles or so to Hwy 70 and turn Left. Go about 3.2 miles to the traffic light. The road changes names a few times, but starts out as Bridge St. Go about 2 miles to the "T" and turn left at the school. This is Hwy 126. Go 8.1 miles and turn right on Wolf Pitt Rd. The turnoff is .4 miles past the Lake James Boat ramp. The road is really good dirt and gravel until you reach the house at the top. Take the left hand split and go about 1/3 mile across very rough road until you reach the parking lot. Follow the trail up the mountain. It's about a 45 minute to an hour hike (2+ hours at night!). Once get on the edge of the gorge, it's about 10 minutes to the campsites. The descent gully is right below the spring.
noshoesnoshirt

climber
Arkansas, I suppose
  Nov 22, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
Linville is incredible, a great unknown to most climbers.

Thanks for the report.
drc

Trad climber
Durham, NC
  Nov 22, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
I'm still sore from having to use arms for climbing yesterday;)

The approach isn't bad, no worse than, say, Medlicott. Well worth humping beer to the glory campsites.

The ratings still feel bizarre to me in NC, after a year of climbing here. Handcracks and stem corners are rated harder than 50 ft continuous overhangs with funky gear. I keep getting my ass handed to me on 5.7+.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 22, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
Thanks for the TR,
I climbed that route in 2002 and fount it a bit stout also.
Thanks for a trip down memory lane.

Dopey duck is no harder take doubles of TCUs, A #9 BD stopper protects the crux on dopey ducky after the traverse.

-ezra
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Nov 23, 2010 - 08:41am PT
Yeah Victor! Now you're gettin' after it! Shortoff is pretty dreamy, what with camping on top, a spring on top of the cliff (?!), and the views. Climb a route, eat lunch, run back down and climb another that tops out in camp...

(does this make it the Black Canyon of the East?)

Thanks for the memories drc.

Dopey Duck is a must, yes.
Lichen Express, too. Really. An actual 5.10 finger crack, a nothing-special wandery lichen slab, and then look for the steep, clean jug-haul topout pitch.

Supercrack and Help Mr. Wizard!, but those are harder.
PhotogEC

climber
In front of my computer
  Nov 23, 2010 - 02:28pm PT
I lived in NC for 6 years, and this brings back some awesome memories. Thanks for the great TR and pics!
Bob Ordner

Trad climber
Spokane
  Nov 24, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
Very nice TR,
So many good things to love about Shortoff, when you return be sure to give Straight and Narrow a tour...definately one of the best 5.10 traditional routes anywhere in my book.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 24, 2010 - 05:59pm PT
Bob,
+1 on strait and Narrow being a great route,

did you think it was kinda soft for a 10?
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 24, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
Dig the TR, thanks!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Nov 24, 2010 - 07:32pm PT

Neat report & pics. Thanks for sharing!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Nov 25, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
Straight and Narrow!

(whatever with the grade)
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Nov 26, 2010 - 12:15am PT
Missed this one!

Nice to see you two out and about!

Thanks for the TR!

Vic is lookin a bit thin in some of those pics :)

Must be climbin more...

Mucci
Thomas

Trad climber
The Tilted World
  Nov 28, 2010 - 10:18am PT
Nice TR! I'm glad that you folks had fun.

Shortoff is definitely the gem of Linville Gorge. I always appreciate the wild exposure of the place. I recently did Paradise Alley as the first route of a four route day at Shortoff. So good.

Thanks for sharing. Cheers!
susu

climber
East Bay, CA
  Dec 1, 2010 - 11:06am PT
Enjoyed your TR, Ally! Only missing a photo of you, tho! Looks like a fun and adventurous place. Makes me miss some east coast climbing.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 12:54am PT
NC looks cool.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 17, 2016 - 09:52am PT
Just found this TR from Yosguns and it reminded me of the 12 years I spent in the south. Fun little write up of a seldom heard of spot if you are from the west coast. Linville and the NC areas are rad. Linville, Table Rock, Whitesides, Laurel Mtn, Stone Mtn, Crowders, Boone, Looking Glass...so much great stone out there!

Sometimes I miss the south and the smell of rhododendrons and the wind blowing down the canyon in the magnolia infused springtime.....


Thanks for the TR Yosguns!
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