North Ridge 5.6

  • Currently 4.0/5

Mt. Conness

Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

Trip Report
North Ridge of Conness- Classic Sierra climb
Tuesday February 8, 2011 12:29pm
Credit: Vitaliy M.
After completion of Sierra Challenge 2010, my goal was to do more technical climbing and to work on my trad skills. Not too many ranges in the world can compete with what Sierra has to offer-high altitude, rugged peaks, beautiful scenery, load of routes of all difficulties, and usually stable weather. A week after leading 5 pitches on Half Dome's Snake Dike (5.7) I decided not to pass on the opportunity to climb Mount Conness (12,590 feet). After reading about North Ridge (5.6) and West Ridge (5.6) of Conness, it was difficult for me to decide on the route- both seemed equally as awesome. But, after checking out some of the exposed "hero shots" from North Ridge and talking to several people that have done both ridges, the deal was sealed-North Ridge it is!
I left the Bay Area fairly early Friday, and was able to squeeze in a brief hike around Saddlebag Lake, than got some needed rest for the day to come.


During the night to my surprise I didn't sleep well (maybe due to driving from San Francisco to over 10,000 feet, or due to forgetting to bring my favorite sleeping pad) and the temperature reached below freezing (surprise!). However, I did not have any trouble getting up in the morning. Instead of waiting for the boat ride across Saddlebag Lake my two partners and I decided to hike- our cold bodies begged us to get our blood flowing again. After we left camp we chose to take the trail on western side of Saddleback lake (10,080 feet) going north. Disadvantage of west side are a load of loose rocks on the trail which could easily result in a twisted ankle. East side has a better trail, but adds on extra distance and time to the hike. Before Saddlebag lake ends there is a left (west) turn we took, and passed Greenstone lake on it's South side. The trail was very straight forward and easy to follow, but map is required to avoid getting lost. After we passed Greenstone lake the trail crosses the stream (to the north), and continues to lead the climber north-west along a creek, over some slabs, towards Conness lakes, glacier, and mountain itself.

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Conness lakes scenery

The approach was very scenic, and I was able to spot little fish going crazy around these streams, especially in first couple of Conness lakes.
As we passed lake after lake the scenery only got better. North ridge came into view- a beautiful thousand foot granite wall towering over Conness glacier. We followed the lakes on their north side. At this point route is easy to follow, and only at one spot we had to get over some slabs to join the trail on their other side. After we approached the last lake we filled up our empty water bottles and filled up our stomachs with fresh Sierra glacier water. To the right (north) of lakes there is a scree slope with numerous trails going up it and towards North Ridge of Conness.

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On the scree slope. Traversing towards the ridge

We took one of these trails up and traversed northwest (towards the ridge) to the beginning of North Ridge. At the base of the route we got in some calories and had a rest stop. I noted we are making great time, and other folks that were a bit behind are out sight. It took us only two hours to get to the ridge.

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Route and I

The Climb

I don't believe I ever approached an alpine route and found it to be as perfect as North Ridge looked. As the ridge continues the terrain gets narrow and more difficult. Like a pair of giant guards two towers stand in the way of any climber that dares to set their foot on this beauty. From the distance the towers look very intimidating and difficult to get around.

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Two intimidating towers

We made our way to the first tower, starting from second class terrain, which transformed into 3rd class with exposure. As we approached the 1st tower our route ran into couple of 4th class moves and to get around the 1st tower (on it's left side) we got a bit higher than 3rd class ledges and had to make a exposed and airy 5th class move over the drop on to the glacier. As we approached harder terrain our pace slowed down, but we still were making a good time since we decided to climb unroped (all 3 of us were comfortable on this terrain in our climbing shoes).

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Start of 3rd class

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Little past the first tower

After we managed to get up to the top of second tower we decided to use the webbing at the rap station and get down quick, in order to save time. We put on our harnesses and flaked out the rope. Before raping down we enjoyed some of the exposure and the views. Looking back at our route I thought about "What would my Mom say is she saw this, FROM THIS EXACT SPOT?!" From the top of second tower we were able to pick a nice line to take up to the summit. As we got ready to take turns on the rap station I noticed the party behind us starting up the ridge. As we took turns getting down, we noticed that there were actually 3 rap stations on the way down, possibly to allow a party with a 30M rope to safely get down. We skipped the station in the middle and were down in the saddle between second tower and the summit shortly after.

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Rap down from 2nd tower

From the saddle to the summit the route was class 4 to 5. easy, even though if one really wants I am sure there is a class 4 line available somewhere. The climb from the saddle starts out with easy slab climbing, than gets steeper with more than a few cracks available for holds. Half way up we decided to stop and snap couple of hero shots.

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*Peter Croft wanna-be* shot

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Hanging over a 1000 ft drop

On this ridge it is not difficult at all to find an exposed spot for a few hero shots, the whole ridge is exposed! As we were getting done with our photo session we spotted the other party getting up to the second tower. We waved to them, and continued up. As we continued up the climbing got more fun. At one point we had to climb down a 10 foot chimney, and than climb up a nice hand crack. After couple more minutes and another exposed traverse we were approaching the summit. It was only noon on Saturday and my big weekend plan was already complete! I pulled out my celebratory skittles and enjoyed the view from the top. We took some summit photos, rested and attempted to wait for the following party a bit longer.

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summit photo (group)

After waiting for about thirty minutes we went down to find the chute leading down to West ridge (another classic). It took us about an hour to find the right chute, and by than we decided not to try our luck on this day. Climbing four or so roped pitches with three climbers would make things a lot slower, and we would be risking an epic. We decided to avoid one and take the East ridge (class 2) back to Saddleback lake.

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Traveling towards East Ridge

After couple more hours of slogging down we ended up at our camp, two hours earlier than the rest of the people in our group.

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I give this route 5 stars based on solid rock, great segments of exposure, fun climbing, beautiful scenery, and of course awesome partners. Peter Croft was right to include this route in his top 40 Sierra climbs. After such a great experience on # 1 out of 40 I might have to pick several more routes straight out of his book, or maybe at some point complete the whole list! However, for now I need to get away from dreaming, and back to training!

Follow the ridge, pass the 1st tower on the left side, continue up to 2nd tower, down climb/rap down to the saddle, and take 4th/low 5th class way to the summit

*Leave early enough to have a full day for this route. Our party finished fairly early, but another team of two from our group ended up getting back to camp at 2AM (because their tent-mate didn't let me know they were back I actually ended up leaving camp at 4:30am and hiking to the north ridge again to look for them. At least I took some great sunrise photos), without even making it past 1st tower. They got lost on the way up(even though perfect maps, and directions are available), didn't even bring a watch (which resulted in getting lost again on the way down).
*Know how to use a map & compass
*Bring a watch and try to be on your way back to camp about two hours before sunset
*Just in case have a bit more water/food/clothes available in case you do get lost and need to spent a night on the ridge (bivy spots with great views on to Conness glacier are readily available!)
*Be careful and don't climb anything that looks above your level of comfort.
*In case you are not comfortable to solo terrain up to 5.6 bring a rope/protection (know how to use it).
*Make sure you and your partner are on the same page
*It is not often you are on a classic Sierra route, ENJOY IT!

  Trip Report Views: 4,501
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is a mountain climber from San Francisco.


Social climber
  Feb 8, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
hey there say, vitaliy... wow, thanks for the neat trip report...

i don't much about any of anyyyyy of these trips...

so i love to learn, but dont always get to see all the pics, due to dial up... but i sure love to join in and read them....

thank for the classic sierra route, as you called it...

i LOVED the intro picture, too!

hope you post more trips...
god bless...

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
  Feb 8, 2011 - 01:52pm PT

Thanks so much for posting this!! What at great trip!
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
  Feb 8, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
Thanks for the nice TR. Can't wait for Summer,
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Feb 8, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
So good you had to post it twice.

I love that route and that area. Nice photos brought back how beautiful a trip that is. Thanks again.

  Feb 8, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
Thanks for posting.
Your post reminded me what a great climb it is.

Oakland, CA
  Feb 8, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
Thank you for the beautiful TR!

I had thought of doing this route and carry only a short rope. I've done the rappel with a 60m some years ago but didn't look to see if it would be doable with a 30m. I do remember distinctly that I was very glad to have a rope and didn't need to solo down into the notch.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Feb 8, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
Nice report of a classic moderate. Something the everyman can aspire to. Thanks.

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Feb 8, 2011 - 07:51pm PT
Nice write-up Vitaliy!

I think we stood in line next to each other at the Mountain Hardware sale a few months ago and exchanged contact info. Let me know when you're looking for partners in the valley!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 8, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
Awesome Job, Nice Hero shots,
Nice Pics, TPFU!

Mountain climber
  Feb 8, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
Very nice, one of my favorite routes, but I haven't done the west ridge yet...too bad SummitPost deleted this from their, the taco would never..

Sonoma, CA
  Feb 13, 2011 - 05:30pm PT
Here are a couple of views of Conness to whet your appetite.

Sonoma, CA
  Feb 13, 2011 - 05:32pm PT

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Feb 13, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
climbed this way back in 1997. I remember it as being a fun climb. We climbed it in a thunderstorm.
I've yet to climb the west ridge, but maybe try it this summer.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 13, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
very nice
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
Thank you guys!

Mountain climber
Nanoose Bay, BC
  Dec 15, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
Thanks for the info about the N Ridge of Conness - a very enjoyable climb. A friend and I climbed it in September. We kept looking for the "airy traverse" around the first tower but did not find it - we thought this part was pretty casual. The rap is also easy with a 30m rope - so go light.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Dec 15, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
I went back with another friend this year for a link up of North Ridge of North peak, North ridge of Conness, than down and did West Ridge of Conness.
This time around I did not do that same airy traverse around 1st tower, found a casual way. Was a blast doing all 3 routes in a day.
Mt. Conness - North Ridge 5.6 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on Mt. Conness
Mt. Conness - West Ridge 5.6 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
West Ridge, 5.6
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One of Tuolumne's finest ridge climbs.
Mt. Conness - Southwest Face 5.10c - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Southwest Face, 5.10c
Mt. Conness
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Tuolumne's proudest face.