Trip Report
North Peak TR
Wednesday July 9, 2008 1:11pm
I decided to take a few days off work for the holidays and go stretch my legs.

Saturday I got an alpine start of 7am (haha) and headed up to the North Peak glacier to look at how the couloirs are shaping up this year -

left

middle/right

I traversed up from there, hoping to do some the Northwest Ridge. Looking down at the start from where I was I decided instead to cross a suncupped snowfield to what the SP route page calls the 'second impasse'. Wish I'd taken a pic, but there's kind of a chimney-ish thing (2nd or 3rd class) which offers a view of Upper McCabe Lake -


I scrambled up to the ridge from there - here's the part I missed out on (plus the 5.3 crux :)


I headed up from there. I didn't feel strong enough to stay on the ridge proper, but took some kind of class 3-ish bypass on the right side. A view of the fun parts of the route -


After a short bit of that, the route becomes class 2 walking.


From further up -


The views were of course stellar -



At the summit I heard voices and looked down at the couloir exit - skiers ! Sure enough when I got back in town there was a post on SP from the guys who skied the couloirs.

Thought about doing the glacier route on Conness, but by then I'd had enough for one day :)

  Trip Report Views: 946
rhyang
About the Author
rhyang is a climber from SJC.

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jul 9, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
Looks like some fun stuff.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jul 9, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Rhyang,

Friggin' awesome photos and TR! No joking...I'm really impressed!



Weren't you injured pretty badly not so long ago? Has it been a year?
davidji

Social climber
CA
  Jul 9, 2008 - 01:29pm PT
Glad you're getting out on the rock again!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Jul 9, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
Thanks guys :)

L: it's been almost 11 months. No complaints here - I could be on a wheelchair for life right now.

In about six weeks I'll go back to see my neurosurgeon to see what he thinks about me getting back to technical climbing. In the meantime I've just been doing class 3 (ish) scrambles and snow climbs.

As for the rest of my vacation, Monday / Tuesday I headed up NF Big Pine to do Mt. Winchell's east arete (also class 3). It's not really a technical objective, but here's a link to some pics - it shows some conditions from the Palisades. Haven't been back since 2005 - it always takes my breath away (literally and figuratively :)

btw as I was driving back over Tioga Pass I noticed all the clouds (it was clouding up in the afternoons in the Palisades area earlier in the week but nothing ever came of it). Looked like it rained pretty good west of Tuolumne yesterday afternoon - hard to beat the smell of the forest after rain :)
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jul 9, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
Nice...wonderful to hear you've recovered so well and are getting out like this.
Flashlight

climber
  Sep 6, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
Cool report and pictures. I was in the same place the end of July. Not sure how I missed this one the first go 'round.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Sep 6, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
Thank goodness, a fresh TR. (for me at least) and a super one.... Gorgeous pics!

You are such a great testimony to the toughness and determination of the human spirit mixed with miracle.

All the best for you in the future, Rhyang. Lynne
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 6, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
Somehow I missed it, too. Nice!

Here are some photo overlays (guesses; I haven't been there) that I posted on one of Jody's threads. Maybe they will be more useful here, since this one has North Peak in the title.





Overlays based on Jody's photos at:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=655177
Flashlight

climber
  Sep 6, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
Clint, those are great. What program did you use?

BTW, up for some west side Pinns when it cools off?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 6, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
Jody,

For photo overlays, I have been using some pretty simple tools:
 IrfanView to crop, resize a JPG to 800 x 600 (for photobucket) and save as BMP
 Paint to draw the lines and text
 IrvanView to convert it to JPG for upload to photobucket
The fuzzy text for some colors happens when they are saved
on photobucket with some JPG compression.

Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop should be better tools, but I haven't invested the time to learn them yet.

Pinnacles West Side? Sure, that would be great. It may take awhile to cool off, though! November/December can be pretty nice there.
Flashlight

climber
  Sep 6, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
Cool. Whatever you did to them didn't reduce the quality when you resaved them.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 6, 2008 - 05:47pm PT
When I save to BMP, there is no image quality lost, because BMP does not do any compression. So I can do several rounds of line drawing with Paint, and the quality does not degrade.

Even when I convert back from BMP to JPG with IrfanView, my JPG Save settings are for 100% (no compression). Photobucket does some compression, though.

If you were to draw lines directly on a JPG with Paint, then you would lose quality every time you save, because it does a compression each time.
hungry man

Trad climber
around
  Sep 7, 2008 - 01:29am PT
really Kool!

Damn, people ski down that thing?!@!!!
Fletcher

Boulder climber
A very quiet place
  Sep 7, 2008 - 02:45am PT
Nice! Brought back some pleasant memories from a climb up the NW ridge a couple of years ago. Still looks as good as ever. Such a beautiful area.

Fletch
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Sep 7, 2008 - 03:13am PT
hey there rhyang.. say, great trip.. great to hear from you with the share here... say, i can smell that wet rained woods, too...

god bless...
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
  Sep 7, 2008 - 10:37pm PT
Anyone have a good guess as to when those chutes are going to firm up into decent ice?

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
  Sep 7, 2008 - 10:58pm PT
Could someone tell me about this area ? I'm still way new here on the Taco. Are these rock climbs, or do you wait for snow and ice....? or both.

If they are rock climbs, could you pick one or two routes from the great overlays done and briefly describe number of pitches and difficulty rating along with mix of rock...chimney, face etc. Or is there a guidebook I should get?

Thanks, Lynne
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Sep 7, 2008 - 11:04pm PT
Could someone tell me about this area?

What Lynne said. North Peak of what? California someplace, I'm sure...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Sep 7, 2008 - 11:04pm PT
Lynne,

There are both rock and snow/ice climbs on North Peak. The climbs are listed in Richard Secor's to the Sierras. You can also read more about them on summitpost.org:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150613/north-peak.html

Have fun,

Clint
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Sep 11, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
Missed the replies on this thread from last weekend - thanks all !

Noticed this thread on mp.com :
http://mountainproject.com/v/injuries_and_accidents/accident_gear_on_north_couloir_north_peak_ca/106238039

"My party and I found what we think was bail gear on the North Couloir route of North Peak outside of Toulumne, CA. We spoke with another climber who mentioned that there was a rockfall accident a few days before we did the route. If you know the party involved with this accident, please put them in contact with me and have them describe the gear and we can arrange to get them their gear back.

Cheers,
John
albersjohn@hotmail.com"


Posted on 25-August, so it might be a bit dated, but just in case ...
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Sep 17, 2008 - 04:39am PT
Dood,
great to hear see you back on the rock. Great photos. I wish I would spend more time up there truely beautiful!
My Thanks for sharing.
Aloha,
wil
Roman

Trad climber
Bostonia
  Sep 17, 2008 - 10:23am PT
Did you and a partner take the ferry at saddlebag lake when you did this? If so I think I saw you while I was nursing my ego after having to bail from Conness north ridge due to weather. Whatta shitty walk to camp that was.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Author's Reply  Sep 17, 2008 - 11:02am PT
Thanks wil.

Roman - never been on the ferry personally, and I was solo that day.
guycan

Trad climber
flagstaff
  Sep 18, 2008 - 11:09am PT
does anyone have beta on Deliverance?
I was just up in 20lakes basin, and was checking out that formation--looks sweeeeet!
Flashlight

climber
  Sep 21, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
On a mission....to get McPalin/NoBama off the front page.
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