Trip Report
North Face, Mt Whitney-Hammerless solo FA? 1971
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Thursday November 15, 2012 12:46pm
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In September, 1971, I soloed Mt Whitney via an excellent route involving a couple of pitches of perfect 5.8 straight-in hand cracks on a nearly vertical section of the North Face, and have frequently wondered if it might be a FA. The plan was to travel light, so I left the ice axe, hammer, pitons and crampons at home, carried about a dozen nuts and a 9mm 150' rope, three prussik loops and a swami belt. Around 5 am the weather looked superb as I headed up the trail.
Some of the approach near the benches was a bit daunting, but it was a warm day and I hoped for the best. Originally, the plan was to climb the East Face, however as I approached the point where that route leaves the buttress, the persistent lure of the unknown became irresistible. This is a view of approximately the point where I traversed right to the North side. I self belayed with a prussik, then after about 70', set anchors, rapped down to the pack, cleaned the pitch and kept climbing on several short pitches of typical solid high Sierra granite until I reached the large snow and ice-filled recess near the summit.
This is where the climbing became somewhat frightening. Without any ice tools, I scraped the hard snow and ice from the ledges with my fingers all the while muttering under my breath "wish I had some type of scraping tool!!" Coincidentally, about half way up the section in the picture below, I was amazed to find a 1"x10" metal rod (guy stake?) protruding from the snow! It worked great!! You can just see my footprints in the lower center of the photo and follow them down to the point where I unroped above the rock face and committed to free soloing the remainder of the climb. The edge of Iceberg Lake can be seen also. It was a great adventure, got to the summit around 1 pm, didn't see anyone on the climb, nor the summit nor on the trail down. Was so happy that I had my picture taken when I returned home.
I haven't seen many views of this side of the mountain. The first photo showing the route is somewhere here on Supertopo, but I haven't been able to re-locate it yet for permission-hope its usage will be allowed. So to whomever it belongs, thank you in advance! Wondering if many have ventured to this less-traveled side of Whitney.
KL
Keith Leaman
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About the Author Keith Leaman is a trad climber from Seattle. |
Comments
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Nov 15, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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Nice Keith. I know Galen did a route he called the North Ridge, from the Whitney Russell col.I think you were in virgin territory. I have a nice shot of the northern aspect somewhere. I try and find it and post up. Cheers, Tony
TY
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Nov 15, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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fantastic!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Awesome TR from the way back machine,
Thank you sir!!!
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Gene
climber
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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The next to last picture is freaking amazing. Proud climb!
g
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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Jeepers, self-belaying on friction knots sounds exciting. If you fall and nobody hears you scream, does it really make a sound?
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DonC
climber
CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:42pm PT
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Good show Keith! You look like a kid in that photo, I remembered you as an old guy back then :-)
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Nov 15, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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no clue as to whether fa or not, but ty very much for sharing.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Nov 16, 2012 - 06:23am PT
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Thanks for the comments. Surprising that some of those 41 year old Ectachrome slides survived. I thought about taking more photos of the route, but the impulse to reach the summit by mid-day superseded. Thanks to Supertopo for providing a place to gather and present the information. We're all just kids then and now, right Don? Glad you're back safely, Tony.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 16, 2012 - 06:38am PT
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Very nice! Here is another picture of the North Face from Russell.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 16, 2012 - 06:42am PT
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Sweet!! Looks like a grand adventure. Thanks for the morning stoke
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 16, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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Very cool thanks for sharing
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nov 16, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Nice! I bet it was an FA.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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Nov 16, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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I hope it was an fa. it would be interesting to find out.
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Nov 16, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Cool BITD report, nice pics even.
Thanks for sharing,
Tad
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 16, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
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Killer adventure, very nice TR & photos. Sounds like that day is burned into your memory pretty good! Nice photos too, love the old school TRs that are written in the present day from the memory banks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 17, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Great TR Keith!
That's grabbing adventure by the horns alrighty!
I hope it's an FA for you.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 18, 2012 - 07:59am PT
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I love to see this old stuff come to light. MORE!
Though I don't like this "hammerless" stuff. PINS RULE!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 18, 2012 - 08:51am PT
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Stellar!
Excellent trip report, man. You did some bold climbing on that one.
When I think back on some of the climbs we did (i.e. that time with Paul on the north side of Tahquitz in the wind/rain storm) I'm amazed that we're still alive.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 10:43am PT
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Pins are for BOWLERS!

Fortunately for ALL of us nuts carried the day...
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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I did take along my lucky nut removing pitonDuring an FA push at Granite Mountains near Amboy, this thing was tied off after only being driven about 3/4". It was my only protection on a runout 5.10 pitch and kept me from decking after a large flake broke off in my hands and I plummeted about 50'.
This pin was stashed in my pack on the Whitney climb though, and by the time I realized how tricky the upper section was, decided it was too risky to try to take off my pack on those thin icy edges and kept going till I found the metal stake.
Nice pic Stahlbro.
RyanD...sometimes I feel like Vonnegut's Billy Pilgrim being "unstuck in time". Maybe someday I'll meet Montana Wildhack on Tralfamadore!
Hope you're staying dry Steve.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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Holy Buckets!
Was it difficult dragging your huge baalsak around for a couple days after?
Some of this stuff doesn't seem so incredible anymore with all the superheroes running around in big magazine spreads.
But in 1971?
Hat's off man, major league.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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Just looking at the route, and reading what you did, gave my stomach the bouncies! Well done....WOWSA
Susan
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Nov 19, 2012 - 11:47am PT
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at least it wasnt Gold line! Stellar Job man!!!!!!!!!!
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Zander
climber
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Nov 19, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
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Nice thread, thanks,
Zander
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Nov 20, 2012 - 05:20am PT
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Way to go for it. Thanks for posting this!
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