Trip Report
North Duke, South Ridge, Taku Range
Saturday August 2, 2014 2:01pm
The Lower 1/3 of the South Ridge of North Duke in the Taku Range
The Lower 1/3 of the South Ridge of North Duke in the Taku Range
Credit: johnkelley

I flew in Saturday morning and was dropped off below the West Face of North Duke Peak in the Taku Range. My second trip to this peak in two weeks. My plan was to attempt the unclimbed peak between Emperor Peak and the North Duke but after a closer look I decided to go for the South Ridge of North Duke instead.

Below the North Duke
Below the North Duke
Credit: johnkelley

I pitched my tent crawled inside made breakfast and had some coffee. An few hours later I made the short approach to North Dukes South Ridge.

The crux of the South Ridge (5.8)
The crux of the South Ridge (5.8)
Credit: johnkelley

The crux of the route was near the bottom. A nice clean corner that went at 5.8. After that it was 1,000 or so feet, mostly on good clean rock. There were a few spots of 5.7 here and there.

South Ridge of North Duke
South Ridge of North Duke
Credit: johnkelley

South Ridge of North Duke
South Ridge of North Duke
Credit: johnkelley

The summit of North Duke Peak
The summit of North Duke Peak
Credit: johnkelley

A few hours and I was on the summit. From there I descended the North Ridge using the rap stations I had left two weeks earlier when I made the FA of the peak. After about an hour I was at the base. I took a short nap in the tent, packed up and left for "dog camp" around 3:00pm.

North Duke Peak. The North Ridge is left skyline and the South Ridge i...
North Duke Peak. The North Ridge is left skyline and the South Ridge is the right skyline
Credit: johnkelley

The ski out went pretty fast.

Looking back across the Taku Glacier
Looking back across the Taku Glacier
Credit: johnkelley

The edge of the icefall
The edge of the icefall
Credit: johnkelley

Navigating through the icefall between the Taku Glacier and the North Fork of the Mendenhall Glacier was much easier then two weeks ago. It's nice being able to see where you're going.

In the icefall
In the icefall
Credit: johnkelley

After getting down to the North Fork of the Mendenhall Glacier I stopped for a rest and melted some snow. It was easy going from there to "dog camp".

North Fork of Mendenhall Glacier
North Fork of Mendenhall Glacier
Credit: johnkelley

North side of the Mendenhall Towers
North side of the Mendenhall Towers
Credit: johnkelley

I arrived at "dog camp around 7:00pm where I spent the night and flew out the next morning.

Dog camp
Dog camp
Credit: johnkelley

Dog camp
Dog camp
Credit: johnkelley


  Trip Report Views: 525
johnkelley
About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
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johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Here's the north ridge of the unclimbed peak, my origional objective, between North Duke and Emperor Peak. The rock didn't look so good for 3rd classing so I chickened out and went for the South Ridge of North Duke instead.
BJ

climber
  Aug 2, 2014 - 07:54pm PT
Whats Dog Camp? I went to JIRP thirty plus years ago, but they had nothing like that.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 2, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
Nice....keep on truckin!
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
"Dog camp" is a tourist mushing operation on the Mendenhall Glacier. Those people are great! They let me stay the night in one of their tents and fed me breakfast with the staff the next morning while I waited for a flight out.

The dogs started going nuts when i skied up to their camp. Ever hear 280 dogs barking at the same time? It's an impressive noise.
this just in

climber
north fork
  Aug 2, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
Wow, that is a great looking trip. Thanks.
BJ

climber
  Aug 2, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
"Dog camp" is a tourist mushing operation on the Mendenhall Glacier. Those people are great! They let me stay the night in one of their tents and fed me breakfast with the staff the next morning while I waited for a flight out.

How far away from the JIRP stuff were you?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
Dog Camp is at the confluence of the Mendenhall Glacier and the North Fork of the Mendenhall Glacier. I think it's around 10 miles from the west side of the Taku Range where I was.

JIRP - Juneau Icefield Research Project right? I think that project is spread out over several square miles. I'm not really sure where they are? Don't they have a number of camps up there also?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 3, 2014 - 02:56am PT
Living the dream, thanks john!
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
  Aug 3, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
Could you determine whether North Duke is higher than South Duke?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 3, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
South Duke is obviously higher. When I was on the top of South Duke we were looking down at North Duke.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Aug 3, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
"We were looking down"

Was this a solo climb?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 3, 2014 - 09:22pm PT
I was alone for the two routes on North Duke and had a partner when I climbed South Duke.

There's a TR on here for the other route on North Duke, the North Ridge and one for the route Bo Duke It on the South Duke.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Aug 3, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
Nice John.

Must be really good to hit it back to back.

What a wide open canvas.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 3, 2014 - 09:36pm PT
Here's the North side of the South Duke taken from the South Ridge of the North Duke.

Credit: johnkelley
rfshore

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
  Aug 13, 2014 - 06:42am PT
Too much sadness and bullshit on the front page. BUMP for climbing!
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Aug 13, 2014 - 07:23am PT
Nice! Your trip reports inspire.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Aug 13, 2014 - 07:33am PT
That's about as blue a sky as I've ever seen.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Aug 13, 2014 - 10:11am PT
It's been raining ever since. The lack of climb able weather on the Juneau Icefield is frustrating to say the least
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