South Face 5.7

Currently 4.0/5

North Dome

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Trip Report

North Dome: South Face Trip

Monday September 17, 2012 9:06am

Did the Royal Arches to North Dome link up on the 1st of September. Royal Arches went fast, 3.5 hours, some simul-climbing, lots of linking. The hike to the Dome definitely took longer than we thought that it would, but the climb up the South Face was awesome and well worth the adventure. It's a huge step up from Nutcracker or other 5.8 climbs in the valley. I've been up the East Buttress on Cathedral 5.9AO and El Cap 5.10b and they were both on par with the South Face in my humble opinion. I've attached my feedback map as a photo. We actually were planning on doing the Crest Jewel and didn't copy the route description for the South Face, so we tore the page out of the book and when were in the dish where we had to choose which route, we ended up doing the South Face, instead. I'd still like to go back and do the Jewel. Maybe next season. Oh... and the hike out to Porcupine Flat: pretty mellow, and well worth the shuttle. Awesome overall day.


	Our feedback on the route. More detail would be helpful and we never found the sustained 5.8, but maybe we were just delirious from all the climbing. Credit: Gantt

Trip Report Views: 800

Gantt

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JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Sep 17, 2012 - 10:25am PT

Thanks for the info. Once I get back to climbing shape (I'm still on the injured reserve list), I'm anxious to do the link-up.

John

survival

Big Wall climber

Terrapin Station

Sep 17, 2012 - 11:35am PT

Sweet.

PICTURES PLEASE!

jvSF

Trad climber

San Francisco

Sep 17, 2012 - 11:47am PT

Here are some pictures from our link-up from
July 2011

Peter Haan

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, CA

Sep 17, 2012 - 01:43pm PT

Thanks Gantt. Glad your party had a good time. I love South Face of North Dome. It is for sure an excellent route with so many fun aspects to it, especially the section where one improbably mounts the giant arch and then figuring out what is required, proudly launches over the rim of it while still hanging on to the strange detached white flake to very good holds unseen over that rim. And then right there, you are suddenly out on the Dome's beautiful slabby face following much subtler features to the summit on beautiful featured stone.

I would point out and beg to differ: this route has been considered to be 5.7 for many decades. I have done it seven times, four of those times unroped. It is a classic 5.7 not a sandbagged 5.8 or 5.9 waiting to cause trouble. I can't recall any accidents or major epics on the route either in five decades. Certainly for a 5.7 it is really stunning at times though but there are always holds, locks, rests, no large powerful moves ever required, and terrific views the whole time.

curt wohlgemuth

Social climber

Bay Area, California

Sep 17, 2012 - 01:46pm PT

I did this link-up in my first season of climbing, many years ago. Without much experience in laybacking, and with a pair of old Chouinard Shoenards on my feet, the slick 5.7 laybacks completely trashed me.

It was a great route and a great day, but boy were we tired after walking down the Falls trail in the dark!

Radish

Trad climber

SeKi, California

Sep 19, 2012 - 10:02am PT

Yea, its 5.7 for a 5.11 leader. I think for the average weekend warrior its probably harder. It would be a good idea to feel strong leading and placing gear at a 5.9 level to go and lead this really great climb. Its one of the best long climbs I've done and definaltly worth the effort of getting out there and expanding your Trad experience.

On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber

Riverside

Sep 19, 2012 - 12:23pm PT

"5.7 for a 5.11 leader "

This doesn't make any logical sense. Please explain.

Radish

Trad climber

SeKi, California

Sep 19, 2012 - 12:44pm PT

If you feel good leading 5.11 then everything below that grade is going to feel easier, and, you have had the experience to know about route finding and gear placing. This climb has all schools of the different climbing techniques, face, off width, crack, lieback with glacier polish for the feet and some routefinding.