New Wave 5.11d

 
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Chapel Wall


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
New Wave, Chapel Wall
Monday June 23, 2014 9:32pm
Credit: karodrinker
Spent yesterday enjoying a perfect day in the Valley at the Chapel Wall. Climbed Gold Dust, Drive By Shooting and New Wave. Hope you enjoy this video I made of my friend Mike climbing New Wave.


Thanks to Jay Smith, Mark Carpenter and Ken Ariza for finding and bolting this awesome climb. If you haven't tried it, go do it! Shady and cool in the summer, and stays dry in the rain.

Enjoy!

Kalen

  Trip Report Views: 1,094
karodrinker
About the Author
Kalen Glenn is from San Jose, CA.

Comments
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le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 24, 2014 - 10:50am PT
Sweet! Nice and concise. Dug the music, too.

Did you edit out the crux pulls, after the second bolt? That part gave me hell and I was getting ready to see how he did it.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 24, 2014 - 11:17am PT
Really awesome freaking video. Seriously. Your friend got some badass technique, loved watching him climb.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 24, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
Le Bruce, just uploaded a pic of the move you might be talking about. I almost fell of of the corner move on the roof, but was able to re set my feet and lunge up to the good right hand hold up high in the corner.

V- thanks man means a lot. I love climbing with Michael, always pushes me to climb harder. His nickname is psyched Mike, and it is easy to know why once you meet him.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Jun 25, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
cool video.

I camped with Mike for a couple night at Shuteye a couple months ago. Super mellow, humble and nice guy. I could sense he climbed hard.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Jun 25, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
That was fun. Thanks!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 25, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
Great video. Thanks for posting. Now that I'm old and have nothing left for which to live, it's too bad I'm too out of shape to try the route!

John
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Jun 25, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
Nice video. Reminds me of Kauk's climbing.
snyd

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
  Jun 25, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
Damn! Looks like the original bolts! Those dudes were all hopped up on weed and cough syrup... sporty.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Jun 25, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
A nicely shot video and I agree with Breedlove... Could be Ron in disguise!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jun 26, 2014 - 12:07am PT
Excellent rock in that area. I remember Drive by Shooting as a very fun route.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 26, 2014 - 12:10am PT
I'll say it again, great edit worthy of its own TR. Thank you this route looks awesome, yet another to the list.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jun 27, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Was that someone drinking unfiltered water out of a stream in Yosemite?
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 27, 2014 - 11:31am PT
Fern spring.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 29, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
Nice pic you added, Karo! Watched the vid again, such a good job editing. Do you use Premiere, After Effects, other?

Also noticed that your partner didn't even stem or chimney off of the back wall at the start... Nice!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 29, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
Cool!
Bad Climber

climber
  Jun 29, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
Fun. Psyched Mike is good!

BAd
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jun 29, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
everything about this was great!

Karo - john took that #6 cam we got from you up Zodiac last week
chappy

Social climber
ventura
  Jun 29, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Hey Kalen,
I just realized your my friend Blair's son. Nice video. Its been years since I've done that route (or for that matter climbed in the Chapel Wall area. Great routes there. Climbing in the shade in June is awesome!
Chappy
damienn

Trad climber
nevada city
  Jun 30, 2014 - 08:53am PT
Psyched Mike you're a celebrity!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 30, 2014 - 09:57am PT
great edit...also curious as to what editor you're using.


thanks for posting,
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
Thanks for the feedback!

Chappy, I am Blairs son, we met a long time ago when I was just a kid, you took us to the Knobby Wall. Give my Dad a call and lets drag him out climbing, he needs it.

I used Premiere, been trying to clean up my skills a bit, really cool to see that you guys are liking it.
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