Trip Report
New River Boulders - Bend OR

by mfsb
Wednesday December 18, 2013 5:22pm
I moved to Bend, OR for several years (about a decade ago) and, at first, it was all about the 45 minute drive to Smith Rocks in Terrebonne. But, as I was scrambling to pay bills, and the like, the two hour round-trip drive, the hike in and out, the gas, the day use fee, and the finding partners got to be a pain in the ass.

"How is that possible?!?" you may ask. Well, when it's in your backyard its easy to make excuses. After a season or two I began to meet people in town who climbed locally. I noticed people riding bikes with bouldering pads on their backs and wondered, "Where are they going?!?" This is when I learned of the IN EXCESS of twenty local bouldering and climbing spots mere minutes from my house.

I found I could go over to the Old Mill District (home of the Les Schwab Ampitheater) cross the Reed Market Rd bridge, and boulder and climb myself stupid EVERY DAY after work.

The first place I went was the 'New River Boulders' aka the 'West Side Boulders'. These can be found by driving down Century Dr, out of town, towards Mt Bachelor. You then turn into the Mt Bachelor Village Resort and park. Heres a map:

Last I was there, you could IMMEDIATELY turn into a parking lot next to the tennis courts. Once parked, you walked across the road (opposite the tennis courts INSIDE the Village) and down the hill on a walking path. Follow this for about fifteen minutes down to, then along, the river (walk back TOWARDS town) and make a sharp cut through the underbrush and then - bang - you are in a boulder field next to the water.

My good friend HOSH and I decided it was our destiny to go there every day and, once we were able to do almost every problem there, we started filming ourselves. The result was two kids having the time of their lives as they made fun of themselves, each other, and every climbing thing you could think of;
-80s lycra spandex? check
-bizarre music choices? check
-inside jokes run amuck? check
-spontaneous 'that would be genius' moments? check

Fortunately/unfortunately (for you) the only way to show off the climbing, is to have you suffer through our (what became a) bouldering show: FCMM. Episode One, the "PILOT" shows HOSH doing a few problems on the entrance wall, including a bit of a contrived (but big) dyno. While MFSB does a sit down problem at the end of the wall, and then another problem in the boulder field in the back.

Episode Two "DANCIN & DYIN" finds MFSB starting off with a no-hands problem at the entry boulder before going back into the boulder field to do "Nemesis" a problem which took three seasons to do! You start in a little cave, pull the lip, and then climb above a bad boulder-strewn landing up about twenty feet to a thin top out! HOSH follows suit with a crimpy, short problem, followed by a traverse, and ends on one of the thin faces (which can be done with or without the offwidth to the right).

Episode Three "SISTERS" was from a trip to the Sisters bouldering field but I'll write up a trip report about that one separately.

Episode Four "JUST LET GO" found us back at the New River/West Side Boulders where HOSH climbs a bunch of problems, ALMOST breaks his fingers on a hard move, then tops out a new problem found just that day.

Episode Five "DONT MESS WITH" is also from the New River/West Side Boulders and features MFSB doing a series of four short problems on the entry boulder (w/ music from ZOHAN!!!).

Episodes Six, Seven, and Eight don't have anything from the New River/West Side Boulders but feel free to check them out if you like. There are TONS of local, out of the way, places in and around BEND and I'll be writing up some trip reports for some of them soon (like Meadowcamp, The Red Zone, Sisters, Widgi Creek, etc)

Seasons Two & Three of FCMM were shot in LA at Stoney Point Park.

Season Four of FCMM was shot in Mexico at Potrero Chico

Season Five of FCMM begins in January and was shot in Sydney Australia

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Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Dec 18, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
Good stuff Maynard!!

Loves me some Bend.

New? We were bouldering that stuff in High School in the 70's, all the way up to 11 and 12. I'm not saying there haven't been a ton of great things that were never done before, but we did some damn hard things all around Bend. And yes, you are correct, there are a TON of spots if you're willing to sniff 'em out.

And as stoned high schoolers, we had LOTS of time.

Thanks for the memories!

  Dec 19, 2013 - 04:16am PT
A bouldering tr! Rad! I hear there's some good stashes there. Thanks for sharing.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Dec 19, 2013 - 11:16am PT

Bump For Bend Bouldering TR!

Trad climber
  Dec 19, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
that video is disturbing

Boulder climber
  Dec 20, 2013 - 02:40am PT
Nice. The no hands in particular.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Apr 8, 2015 - 03:55pm PT
Just went to Bend Oregon this last week, lots of great rock around besides Smith Rock for those that like to explore. Here are some pics from Deshutes River trail area. Basalt everywhere. These climbs were short but had many cool features.

Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud

Way out there....
  Jan 13, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
Nice! The guidebook is about done here for Central Oregon.
I would love to see these vids so I can use the names in the book but they do not work anymore....
Go pre-order the book here!

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
  Jan 13, 2017 - 04:13pm PT
Video links don't work.

Or is it just me? Again.
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