Hobbit Book 5.7 R

 
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Mariuolumne Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
My 'precious' Hobbit Book TR - (with Hugo's Drive by , aka Euro Trash Linkup) - 1st trip report
Saturday June 28, 2014 1:52pm
How is it that a 5 star SuperTopo Route has NO trip reports?, I now have the honor of writing the first SuperTopo TR (FTR) for Hobbit Book!

After Snake Dike success last May (see:

[url="//http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Snake-Dike-May-13-2013-updated-Aug-18-2013/t11968n.html"]//http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Snake-Dike-May-13-2013-updated-Aug-18-2013/t11968n.html[/url]

and a my rough attempt at 5.9 crack climbing on Fishhook Arete on Mt. Russell last September

see:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Fishhook-Arete-Attempt-and-Mt-Russell-Summit-Sept-23-2013/t12219n.html

my climbing buddy Ian Fyfe and I we're looking for our next challenge. Ian had done Royal Arches twice before with lead Josh Helling of Yosemite Mountaineering School but I had not. Ian enjoyed Royal Arches so much he was willing to go again so we started planning for Saturday, June 8. As this is only my 4rd multi-pitch climb, I still insist on a paid guide/lead and to deal with safety/training issues. Josh is one of the best and is highly recommended.

Checking the weather report a few days before the trip showed mid 90 deg. Temps in the valley so we made a last minute change to climb in cooler Tuolumne Meadows instead. Josh recommended Hobbit Book as the summit views are epic and it’s a 5 star climb with good variety. Hobbit Book is a 4 pitch 5.7R route (same as Snake Dike), but to make it more interesting, Josh proposed a linkup to ‘Hugo’s Drive by Shooting’. The 4 pitch ‘Hugo’s’ climb that avoids some of the class 4 slab approach to Hobbit Book. (more climbing too :) ). The route was unofficially named according to Josh due to the seeming frequent/random location of the bolt placements, with many just a few feet apart at the base (P1 and P2) and few at P3 and P4. Total of 9 pitches, 4 with Hugos, 1 traverse pitch, then another 4 pitches with Hobbit Book.
We were lucky to get a Curry Village tent at the last minute to save driving and were greeted by a noisy raven in the morning (a good omen I assumed).
Curry village tents_118
Curry village tents_118
Credit: mpmoody
Raven at Curry Village_DSC0011_148
Raven at Curry Village_DSC0011_148
Credit: mpmoody

We met Josh at 8am at the 140/120 intersection parking lot after a sleepless night (for me) as the bear patrol in Curry Village were firing off several rounds of gunfire and a flash bang grenade to scare off the bears around 3am. I can only imagine what the tourists thought of these SWAT team like antics. Ian heard none of this as he was medicated and had ear plugs.
Reaching the trailhead around 9, we packed and started the approach. The super-topo approach time is shows as 1 – 2 hours. As we we’re climbing ‘Hugos’ first, we were able to complete the approach in about 45 min, but not until we crossed a snow field at the base (lack of footprints/steps indicated we were likely the first climbers of the season), fashioning ice axes out of tree branches.
Crossing snow field below Pitch 1 of 'Hugos drive by shooting' 1_098
Crossing snow field below Pitch 1 of 'Hugos drive by shooting' 1_098
Credit: mpmoody

We reached the base of Hugo’s by 10:30 or so and started climbing.
And a photo from above the snow field at the base of Hugo’s :
lower snowfield below  'Hugo's drive by shooting' route start_117
lower snowfield below 'Hugo's drive by shooting' route start_117
Credit: mpmoody

And a short video here;


Hugo’s has 4 pitches. The first few pitches of “Hugo’s” were a little damp with water runoff higher up. Had to maneuver around the wet rock
Josh started leading Hugo’s – with Ian and I simul-climbing below to save time.
Josh leading Hugo's Drive by_104
Josh leading Hugo's Drive by_104
Credit: mpmoody

At belay station –
Josh leading on 'Hugo's drive by'_106
Josh leading on 'Hugo's drive by'_106
Credit: mpmoody

Here Ian’s cleaning below me . The 4 pitch’s of Hugo’s range in difficulty from 5.5 to 5.6 in my opinion, a little easier than the sustained 5.7 climbing on Hobbit Book to come.
Ian belaying Josh:
Ian belaying Josh Helling_108
Ian belaying Josh Helling_108
Credit: mpmoody
Pitch 2 video with water on rocks:

Ian climbing pitch 4 of Hugo’s:

Video of belay station below Pitch 1 of Hobbit Book:

Video of belay station below pitch 2 of Hobbit:

Pitch 3 or Hobbit Book – the money pitch (as it’s called) with nice golden holds, Josh is Leading in this sequence:
Josh on Pitch 3 of Hobbit Book_20140607_151747 (2)_121
Josh on Pitch 3 of Hobbit Book_20140607_151747 (2)_121
Credit: mpmoody
Josh on Pitch 3 of Hobbit Book_20140607_151747 (1)_142
Josh on Pitch 3 of Hobbit Book_20140607_151747 (1)_142
Credit: mpmoody
Josh on Pitch 3 of Hobbit Book_20140607_151747 (3)_141
Josh on Pitch 3 of Hobbit Book_20140607_151747 (3)_141
Credit: mpmoody

And here’s a go pro video of me climbing pitch 3 (so many options on this route), Josh went about 10 feet left – a little steeper in my opinion, while I went straight up, less vertical, but fewer holds.



The last pitch 4 has a right layback, tricky for me since the anchor point was about 6 feet off the belay station footing, required lifting one foot, then the other feet around the gear while in a layback (Ian below, following). Here’s Go Pro video (unedited – sorry) of me on pitch 4:

Video of Josh belaying Ian up final pitch to summit (reaching the summit at 5:40, about 7 hours after we started climbing):


Ian and me on the summit…
Mike and Ian at Summit Portrait_20140607_174544_109
Mike and Ian at Summit Portrait_20140607_174544_109
Credit: mpmoody

Summit Panorama with amazing views of Toulumne Meadows, Fairview Dome, Half Dome, Clouds Rest, Cathedral Peak – WOW
Panorama from Mariuolumne Dome Summit  20140607_174125_152
Panorama from Mariuolumne Dome Summit 20140607_174125_152
Credit: mpmoody
Backside (descent route) of Mariuolumne Dome_20140607_180506_131
Backside (descent route) of Mariuolumne Dome_20140607_180506_131
Credit: mpmoody

Little Dome Lake near the summit (rarely seen, due to the elevation)
Little Dome Lake_20140607_182446_129
Little Dome Lake_20140607_182446_129
Credit: mpmoody
Little Dome Lake from Summit_20140607_174320_145
Little Dome Lake from Summit_20140607_174320_145
Credit: mpmoody

Descending the backside of Mariuolumne Dome (video) – beautiful day…


Even though the rating is the same as Snake Dike (5.7R), Hobbit is much more vertical/sustained and with more variety. Definitely recommend it for the variety as well as the summit views. Descent took a little more than an hour where we bumped into friend Casey Flowe at the parking lot – he had just come off OZ on Drug Dome.
Couldn’t help but catch a photo of climbers on El Cap through my telescope on the way out of Yosemite the next day.
Climbers on El Cap_DSC0014_150
Climbers on El Cap_DSC0014_150
Credit: mpmoody


And this video of Merced River with the valley in the background - best watched in HD:


Wish my 26 year old son Matthew could have been here this day – sadly as some of you may know from my other trip reports, he passed away in a plane crash last August, 2013. He was an avid slackliner/boulderer/climber. Someday, I’d like to do a FA and name it in his honor – if you have suggestions, let me know.

Mike

  Trip Report Views: 3,759
mpmoody
About the Author
mpmoody is a mountain climber from Alamo.

Comments
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mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 28, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
just fixed some formatting errors - supertopo needs a preview option, before publishing -
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
  Jun 28, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
Sounds (and looks) like a great day out and two excellent climbs. TFPU.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Jun 28, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
Why do you keep comparing Hobbot Book to Snake Hike?
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jun 28, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
I'd never heard of Hugo's. What a great approach route.
I'll have to scope it out for next time.
Hobbit Book is a spectacular, easy-ish classic. And so rarely done.
You can walk off either skier's left (to the east) or right (down to the lake)
I've done both and I'd say the lake route is a little shorter and much more aesthetic.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Sacramento, CA
  Jun 28, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
Hobbit Book is a good un! On the Lamb to Oz to Hobbit Book is a also a very "flowey" linkup, as the mtb-ers might say.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 29, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
Looks like a great day out!!!!
Nice!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 29, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
Hobbit book seems like a really cool line. Looks steep as hell for a 5.7. That lake on top looks neat, glad you had fun.

Saw you want to do a First Ascent and dedicate it in memory of your son. Step one would be to start climbing more and get on the sharp end. Would be impossible to do a first ascent if you are not leading. Good luck.
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:25pm PT
J-tree re:
Why do you keep comparing Hobbot Book to Snake Hike?

Snake Dike is my only other 5.7 R to compare to. Being new to outdoor climbing, I found the difficulty rating has not much to do with the route rating.
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
Vitaliy M. - as always appreciate your support and advise - you have mad skills, re:
Saw you want to do a First Ascent and dedicate it in memory of your son. Step one would be to start climbing more and get on the sharp end. Would be impossible to do a first ascent if you are not leading. Good luck.

I agree, need to up my game to get any hope of an FA.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
Thanks for bringing back some wonderful memories of one of the outstanding routes of the Meadows. Something that steep going at only 5.7 amazed me when I first climbed it, and in a way, it still does. Keep it up -- and keep reporting. You seem to have excellent taste in route-picking.

John
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
I agree, need to up my game to get any hope of an FA.

mpmoody, I think you have the passion and desire to get it done!


~peace, Leggs
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jun 30, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
TFPU!

Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 30, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
dig the video clips!

great adventure man, looking forward to more!!

mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
Thanks everyone for the feedback!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:25pm PT
Nice report! A great route. A better comparison climb than Snake Dike is Bear's Reach at Lover's Leap. Both are surprisingly steep for 5.7 routes. Hobbit Book is a good deal more run out than BR.

So, where is Hugo's Drive-by Shooting with respect to Euro Trash?
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
Nice thanks, Look like one to put on the list.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jun 30, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
I found the difficulty rating has not much to do with the route rating.

Bingo . . . ratings don't mean sh#t.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 10:25am PT
I've always wanted to do this climb, but it hasn't happened yet. Thanks for the inspiration.
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
Well done! I knew those climbers on el cap looked familiar, took me a few minutes to figure out that it was me! haha thanks for the shot!
RyanD

climber
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
Awesome! TFPU!!
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Jul 1, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
Nice report and different from most, a gentlemanly affair.

Hobbit Book is one of my all time favorite climbs. Glissading off the back in the right snow year was my favorite ascent.

I dare say I might need a guide now to do it...ouch
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Jul 1, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
I've never heard of Hobbit Book but it looks fun! Dome lake looks rad too, thanks for sharing!

Is the drive by route 5.7 also?
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 2, 2014 - 12:53am PT
Mike Bolte re:
So, where is Hugo's Drive-by Shooting with respect to Euro Trash?
- good question, since the climb, I can not find another reference online anywhere regarding Hugo's, it may be the name the guides gave it, it must be right near EuroTrash, will research and advise.
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 2, 2014 - 12:56am PT
Jaysen: re:
Well done! I knew those climbers on el cap looked familiar, took me a few minutes to figure out that it was me! haha thanks for the shot!
that's quite a coincidence! Congrats on El Cap - email me at mpmoody@gmail.com and I will send you the originals (not as good as Tom's)
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 2, 2014 - 01:00am PT
limpingcrab: re:
Is the drive by route 5.7 also?
my rating would be closer to 5.5 or 5.6, easier than Hobbit
Kurt Jensen

Trad climber
Aptos,CA
  Jul 2, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
Hobbit Book is awesome! i love that climb. I think "Hugo's" that you refer to is actually "Euro Trash", which I climbed last week. It tops out at a bolted belay with slings which lies to the left of the Hobbit Book start. A logical link up. We also crossed a small snowfield, with no tracks. When did you do this? We linked P1 and P2, which were 120 ft. and 60 ft. respectively. Both had a nice ledge at the belay, but seemed way overbolted for easy terrain, and I skipped some bolts, not having 16 on me! P.3 was also pretty easy, and well bolted. On the last pitch there was a mix of crack climbing and a weird bolted boulder problem, hard 5.10, with a faded grab sling on the upper of 2 bolts. Last pitch wandered and had some runouts between gear, and you could have easily climbed easier terrain to the left or right of the steep bolted bulge. Supertopo 2nd Edition has a story about Euro Trash that might explain the odd bolting. Both Tuolomne guides don't list who did the FA... I'd say it's a fast and different way to get to Hobbit book, but not classic compared to so much else in Tuolomne.
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 3, 2014 - 12:04am PT
Kurt Jensen:
Hobbit Book is awesome! i love that climb. I think "Hugo's" that you refer to is actually "Euro Trash",
- Mike Bolte also agrees, 'Hugo's' must be an alternate name given by the local Yosemite guides (Josh)

Regarding the snowfield, we went 2+weeks ago! maybe tracks melted...
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jul 3, 2014 - 07:42am PT
BBST. TFPU!
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Photo: Marshall Minobe
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