Moonlight Buttress 5.12d or 5.9 C1

 
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Moonlight Buttress Area


Zion National Park, Utah, USA


Trip Report
Moonlight Buttress Rope Solo Winter Ascent February 4-6 2012
Wednesday February 15, 2012 3:54pm
My TOPO
My TOPO
Credit: JSpencerV

Below is a blog entry of my Moonlight Buttress Rope Solo in February:

http://jspencerv.blogspot.com/2012/02/moonlight-buttress-ropesolo-winter.html

Special thanks Mark Hudon, John Mac and Zak Tourville for putting up with my questions on how to rope solo walls!

  Trip Report Views: 4,136
JSpencerV
About the Author
JSpencerV is a trad climber from Santa Monica, CA.

Comments
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Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Feb 15, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
Sorry about the sickness.

Great TR and a proud accomplishment!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Feb 15, 2012 - 05:09pm PT

Nice job--thanks for sharing!!!!

(Did they ever figure out what was wrong with you)?
Hope you don't suffer from it again!
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2012 - 01:26am PT
Thanks for the support. They didn't figure out what was wrong- thought maybe it was just a really bad virus twice - which it could have been. But everything is normal now, which is good.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 16, 2012 - 02:18am PT
Nice job. Looks like a great route. Did you have to free climb much?
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Feb 16, 2012 - 02:30am PT
Nice man! Congrats!

Was this your second wall?
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2012 - 02:45am PT
Mike-the first pitch was some dirty 5.8 free climbing, but wasn't too bad. Along the route, I pulled a few easy free moves in between aid to gain extra ground. The final pitch was 5.7 for about 15 feet, so I paid out a bunch of slack and topped out, it was a little heady with the rope drag, darkness and poor fall potential; but not very hard. Mostly aid.

Paul-I've done NW face Half Dome, The Prow, The Nose, Lost Arrow Tip, 1/2 of Mount Watkins (bailed because bolt ladder was missing two bolts) and Moonlight Buttress before with partners. This was my first solo wall.
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
  Feb 16, 2012 - 03:31am PT
Very cool...good report.

Crazy random sickness!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 16, 2012 - 05:30am PT
hey there say, JSpencerV... thank you so very much for sharing your trip report...

:) nice to jump on late, like this, and find a new one...


edit: ooops, not to be rude, but i will have to read it later,
on the blog, as i am in the middle of a large project that needs to be getting done soon... :)
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
  Feb 16, 2012 - 10:52am PT
Well done. Love the Rope bags!

RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Feb 16, 2012 - 10:54am PT
Very well done! What a spectacular adventure!
Prod

Trad climber
  Feb 17, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
Sweet!

Prod.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Feb 18, 2012 - 12:04am PT
So cool!

Glad I could help!

What's next?
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 20, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
I'm not sure what's next..we shall see.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 20, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
Very cool, thanks!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Feb 20, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
Ah, practicing my "Digging a Hole Motivational Program" by announcing your route ahead of time, eh?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Feb 20, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Nice one dude!
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 20, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
Mark- Haha. I am now keeping my next route top secret!
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Feb 20, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
winter? winter? is there a winter going on?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Feb 20, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
awesome shots!!! Well done dude!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Feb 23, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
Jared, your old patient Scott Mossman here, glad to see how you are getting it done! Save your pennies, sounds like you're ready for Patagonia.
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
  Feb 23, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
Way to getter dun Jared!! Good seeing you in Ouray....wished we'd hit up Scottish Gullies with you. We were only able to get down to Grad School and New Funtier. Punters. :/


...bailed because bolt ladder was missing two bolts

Not to sound condescending bro but why didn't you "paste with haste"? Fill that hole and gun fer it!!
JSpencerV

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 24, 2012 - 01:50am PT
Scott: Good to hear from you - hope things are well

Mooch: Great seeing you in ouray as well; such a fun trip. Funny story on mount watkins. My climbing partner had to duct tape his talon in the blown out bolt holes (there was still bolt remnants which made it more shallow) and was top stepping to reach the next bolt and was taking a lot of exciting 15 foot whippers. Still couldn't make it past; so he tried to pendulum to a 5.11 arete and still took more whippers. Then tried a tension traverse; that didn't work out. In lieu of a bolt kit, one year later, we came up with an idea (half jokingly)that may have worked:

I could stand on his shoulders while he is topped stepped on his aiders to get an extra 6 feet higher - Then make the mantle exit move and clip the anchors!
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Mar 5, 2012 - 05:00pm PT
Great job Jared! Thanks for the TR.

Wes
Michael Nicholson

Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
  Mar 26, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
Nice TR grats on your ascent!
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