Excellent, Smithers 5.10a

 
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Medlicott Dome, Left


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Missing piton distress!
Friday August 1, 2014 8:47pm
Climbed the route August 1st. Fun route, totally worth doing. Only problem was the .10a corner crack on the second pitch. On the topo it shows 2 fixed pitons in the upper part of the corner, but they were not there today. It wouldn't be such a problem except that corner crack flares/overhangs to the point it is hard to get anything else wedged in there that looks solid enough to hold a fall. Also, it works best to layback a bit making it hard to actually look around the corner to see how poorly your gear is set. Maybe some small offset cams would work? Anyway, it got more exciting than anticipated. I ended up face climbing around that crux on some very nice 5.8-ish knobs just to the right of the crack, but that was run out and left me with a ticklish leftward and downward traverse to get back on route.

  Trip Report Views: 759
duckdodger
About the Author
duckdodger is a social climber from Zephyr Cove.

Comments
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ruppell

climber
  Aug 1, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
LOL.

I climbed it about two weeks ago now. Didn't have a topo and also didn't have a problem. I thought it was one of the best Meadows routes I'd done regardless of grade. So it goes?
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Aug 1, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
Two words: mono doigt.
ruppell

climber
  Aug 1, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
That's four words.
okie

Trad climber
  Aug 1, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
Someone should go do their Commie service and pound in the next larger size pegs to keep the topo honest. Might be fun...why not?
ruppell

climber
  Aug 1, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
Yes. Make it just like Serenity. Bang the pins. I say we have a newbie aid climbing clinic. Teach then to aid on the finest free climbs. Who's in?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Aug 1, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
Run it out. It is TM
scrubbing bubbles

Social climber
Uranus
  Aug 1, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
Warning: Climbing can be dangerous
Greg Barnes

climber
  Aug 2, 2014 - 06:00am PT
Those disappeared years ago, and no pitons are shown in the current Supertopo guide (2009). They were pretty sketchy to begin with, modern tiny cams feel more secure. They probably aren't any better, but at least you don't need a hammer to check them!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 2, 2014 - 07:06am PT
Use your feet.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 2, 2014 - 08:37am PT
Pitons are awesome.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Aug 2, 2014 - 11:49am PT
Bolts are better!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Aug 2, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
+1, climbski!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Aug 2, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
Nancy and I climbed the the 5th pitch offwidth of the Good Book. Spawning up the wide had a reward of a fixed bong to clip. Clip it we did but it fell out just as quickly...
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Medlicott Dome, Left - Excellent, Smithers 5.10a - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
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