Mescalito A3 5.8

 
  • Currently 5.0/5
Search
Go

El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Mescalito Gumbies
Wednesday June 29, 2011 1:06pm
http://germanguitars.com/trips/mescalito/
Over-documented, and probably a little long-winded. 147 photos: lots of butt shots along with excellent Tom Evans photos. 8 videos.
Enjoy.
-gg

  Trip Report Views: 2,742
Greggonator
About the Author
Greggonator is a trad climber from Broomfield, CO.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Jun 29, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
Nice pictures, looks like you had fun !
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jun 29, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
Great job! Man, somebody needs to take a punch and some other stuff up there to knock that mank out.

There is a lot more damage than I thought. You should have seen it when it was cherry!
Jeremy

climber
  Jun 29, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jun 29, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
A great TR and awesome photos! I loved the photos of Gumby flying around!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 29, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
Wow! Wall Gumbies and Mescalito in the same sentence would normally have a "not" somewhere in there. You've certainly exceeded Tom Patey's definition of a beginner: "someone, often dead, who should be kept from the mountains at all cost."

Well done, both in climbing and in reporting.

Thanks.

John
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 29, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
Good stuff, man. I can dig it.
Check out Gumby!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jun 29, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
Thanks for sharing the fun. Back to the front page.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jun 30, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
Greg,
Did you do the route all clean (clean using fixed gear)? I didn't notice if you mentioned you did or not.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Jun 30, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
Right on Wally and Greg. I´ve been wondering about you guys. Way to send!

Brad
a.k.a. Team Gumby - Cordillera Blanca
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, Co
  Jun 30, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
I did he exact same thing on my knee back in November! Haven't done a drop knee since. Hope your partner is alright!!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jun 30, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
Great report! And I like the web layout with contiguous text, pics on one side, vids on the other. What web framework do you use for the pics?
Auto-X Fil

Mountain climber
  Jun 30, 2011 - 05:28pm PT
Greg,
Did you do the route all clean (clean using fixed gear)? I didn't notice if you mentioned you did or not.

Looks like they did:

We hoped to keep this a ‘hammerless’ ascent. We had pitons and copperheads in the haulbag, but we didn’t want to use them. (Clean aid doesn’t damage the rock, while whanging in pins certainly does.) At 5:30am on Tuesday, the hammer came out. We used it to crush a stubborn protein drink bottle. We put it back in the bag for the remainder of the trip. [I guess a true ‘hammerless’ ascent would avoid using existing pitons and copperheads in addition to not adding more. We did our best.]

Major bump for the clean, the gumby, and the send!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 30, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
Nice job gumbies!
Greggonator

Trad climber
Broomfield, CO
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
On the expando pitch I tapped a #3 BD stopper with my nut tool a few times to make sure it set. Wally still got that nut out with a jerk. That was the only hammering we did. (I wanted to tap that Tomahawk in, but held my breath as I stepped up instead.)

Photos - Thanks for the layout compliment. In another life I did web design and animation. Dreamweaver for the layout and a pretty common Javascript plugin/script called Lightbox for the photo slideshow.
Prod

Trad climber
  Jan 12, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
Fun TR.

I wish the photos had captions and were inbedded in the story. But all in all I really liked the read as well as the pics.

Cheers,

Prod.
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
  Jan 12, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
Such a good TR - it gives me hope as a wall gumby that I may someday do these things...

Great pics too, really liked this one:

Greggonator

Trad climber
Broomfield, CO
Author's Reply  Jan 12, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Thanks!
Climbnrok

Trad climber
LA
  Jan 12, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
Any pictures of the 9” ‘Greggalot’ cam?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 12, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
Love the gumby and the pics!!!!!!
Greggonator

Trad climber
Broomfield, CO
Author's Reply  Jan 13, 2012 - 09:09am PT
9" cam:
http://germanguitars.com/trips/salathe/photos/1006.jpg
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 13, 2012 - 10:17am PT
What a great route.
I loved it on that one,....even though I only did half.....
Greggonator

Trad climber
Broomfield, CO
Author's Reply  Jan 13, 2012 - 10:25am PT
BTW - Wally started climbing again this week after a long involuntary hiatus. Beware the drop knee!
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
El Capitan - Mescalito A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Mescalito is route number 15.
Photo: Galen Rowell
Other Routes on El Capitan
El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Nose, 5.14a or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress, 5.10b
El Capitan
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
More routes on El Capitan