Trip Report
MODERN FAs in the SUPER SECRET AREA (THE X FILES)
Tuesday October 20, 2015 8:56pm
Locals only crag! Don't tell anyone it is called the Cherubim Dome!
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2015/10/cherubim-dome-two-new-routes.html

Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R - 1,800 feet)
FA: Musiyenko, Vitaliy and Adam Ferro
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dark-angels-have-more-fun/111184937

What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,500 feet)
FA: Musiyenko, Vitaliy and Brian Prince
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/what-dreams-may-come/111072769

Cherubim dome (10,440 ft) is a beautiful rock face towering above the Valhalla. While researching the established rock climbs, I was able to find only one - Archangel IV 5.10+ A0 ( FA: October 1985 EC Joe and Richard Leversee). "Avoiding drilling as much as possible, we took a line up a series of flakes and cracks on the nearly featureless South face. Eight long pitches on superb golden granite," was how the First Ascentionists described their route in the guidebook. With the topo, description and an outline, I was able to locate it on the Southwest side. The whole South Face had NOTHING! Part of me was screaming with joy because it seemed slabby enough for something to go free. However, I did not want to get on a featureless slab that requires a hundred bolts! The wall was well over 1,200 ft in my estimation and per the topo, the original line had only 8 bolts! Not for all the right reasons, I didn't want to place more than that (on both of the new routes we have climbed, we placed only six bolts, two of which for a belay anchor).

Cherubim Dome from the High Sierra Trail
Cherubim Dome from the High Sierra Trail
Credit: Vitaliy M.
Red - What Dreams May Come (IV 5.10 R - 1,500 ft)
Blue - Dark Angels Have More Fun (IV 5.9+ R - 1,800 ft)


Visit on blogspot.com

Dark Angels Have More Fun - 10 pitches, 45-90 m pitches. Most were 60m. The line of What Dreams May Come can be seen on the left. The white water streak/groove.


Visit on blogspot.com

Brownies and a sandwich Bryan and I got at Bearpaw for being awesome


Visit on blogspot.com

Bryan taking awesome shots near Hamilton Lake

When it comes to climbing new lines, there are many things to consider. One would be the proposed route you are aiming for. Second would be the amount of gear. The line I was proposing to Adam was an obvious white streak that split the South Face down the middle. It was screaming to be climbed! But as we hiked up and examined the dome from across, it was obviously lacking crack systems. We opted for a line to the right. There seemed to be connectable features that would allow us to get by without as much drilling. We were not sure how much, but it seemed like a better option compared to the steeper, feature-less streak.


Visit on blogspot.com

What Dreams May Come goes through the black bands and into the obvious white streak splitting the face right of the roof. After the bulge, it works left towards the prominent crack system in the middle of the summit headwall. From what I understand, the Archangel goes left of the big roof on the left, and up the sunlit buttress that makes the left skyline. Dark Angels Have More Fun connects cracks, corners and features on the right side of the formation.


Visit on blogspot.com

An original flaring splitter (On dark angels have more fun)


Visit on blogspot.com

Looking down at the cracks below


Visit on blogspot.com

A bulge!


Visit on blogspot.com

GOT JUGS!

We found top notch granite and fun climbing up feature-less slab, cracks, corners, knobs, chicken heads and laser cut splitters that appeared out of nowhere and ended just as abruptly. The line was just as enjoyable as the South Face of Charlotte Dome, but with less choss or scrambling. The climbing never got boring or too difficult. We climbed many full sixty meter pitches to the right edge and up the summit head-wall. From there third class scramble took us to the top.


Visit on blogspot.com

Than things got a bit runout...for a 100 ft.


Visit on blogspot.com

Adam on one of the upper pitches


Visit on blogspot.com

Domes are not supposed to have splitters! :)


Visit on blogspot.com



Visit on blogspot.com



Visit on blogspot.com

Cherubim Dome rising above the Hamilton Lake and Angel Wings

After adding up the pitches, turned out we climbed approximately 1,800 ft! With difficulties to 5.9+, the climb is usually in the 5.6-7 range. The runouts were sometimes long but not severely. Mental crux was making 5.7ish friction moves to a belay stance, 100 feet above the last gear. This was exactly what we wanted a day after the battle with the Angel Wings - a fun romp up perfect granite. In addition to that, it was a big confidence booster which allowed me to believe a line up the center streak would be a possibility for the future.


Visit on blogspot.com

The rock was pretty damn cool all the way up What Dreams May Come


Visit on blogspot.com

Brian is about to start up the awesome 2nd pitch. Obvious white streak!


Visit on blogspot.com

Awesome rock!!!!!!!!!!!!! 20/10


Visit on blogspot.com

Starting up pitch 3...getting through the BULGE!


Visit on blogspot.com

Can't get enough of this view!


Visit on blogspot.com

The bulge had steep juggy slopers! Like in the GYMMM BRAH!! :)


Visit on blogspot.com

Brian on the 4th pitch


Visit on blogspot.com



Visit on blogspot.com

The rock says COME CLIMB ME!


Visit on blogspot.com

Brian at a belay stance on the final headwall


Visit on blogspot.com

Yeahhhaaawww!

About a month later, I took a week off work and returned with my friend Bryan. Day following the enjoyable hike in, we got on the obvious line that split the South Face down the middle. Bulletproof granite with cool featured allowed for a several awesome pitches before we reached the obvious bulge that we thought was gonna be one of the cruxes. Delicate climbing took me to the bulge. I found sloping jugs just right of the streak, which made the climbing over the bulge, more manageable then the initial section. On the following pitch, Bryan climbed straight up the streak which turned into an interesting thin crack with orange jugs to the right. After about 850 ft of climbing up the streak it grew into an easy groove, so we decided to traverse left and climb straight up the middle of the headwall, which was very steep and intimidating. As with the rest of the route, things managed to work out better than expected, and awesome crack climbing over a few bulges took us straight to the summit proper!


Visit on blogspot.com

Brian enjoying the views from the summit.


Visit on blogspot.com

Adam (guy with a helmet) and I (guy with a smile) on top! :)


Visit on blogspot.com

The Saber ridge behind Cherubim


Visit on blogspot.com

You can see that streak from space! :)


Visit on blogspot.com

Oh the sunsets at Hamilton Lake...it is never the same..

The variety of climbing styles, immaculate rock and the views make both of the routes some of the best climbs the range has to offer. In my opinion, at least one, should be on a tick list for any climbers venturing out to climb the Angel Wings. Two moderates with no need to climb offwidths, or haul anything larger than a single BD#3 camalot! How awesome is that!? With the available beta, a very excited party could link both in a day, especially if the spring is running and you have a convenient water supply at the base. If I had to choose one, What Dreams May Come would be the route to do, while Dark Angels Have More Fun is still a stellar outing. Couldn't have asked for better partners too!

  Trip Report Views: 4,934
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 20, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
Please stop trying to control my reality.
This is f*cking stupid



You both sound like my x girlfriend! Isn't this the place to say positive things?! :)
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
  Oct 20, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
Vitaly you put up the best TR'S by far. loaded with quality pictures. Boundless enthusiasm and drive that few can match.



Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Oct 20, 2015 - 09:33pm PT
Vitaliy, I'm trying to imagine what your climbing resume will look like in a decade if you keep up this pace... staggering.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Oct 20, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
Mah Gawd....
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Oct 20, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
Витья, ты молодец! Don't burn out, bra! :-)
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Oct 20, 2015 - 09:50pm PT
Amazing.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Oct 20, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
Thanks once again Vit-man.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Oct 20, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
nice V... beautiful places and interesting lines

stoked for you...
T H

Boulder climber
ne'erdowell
  Oct 20, 2015 - 11:46pm PT
On the way, as they say -- Vern's Precipice Lake.
http://www.vernclevenger.com/site/sites/default/files/85-9.jpg
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
  Oct 21, 2015 - 01:52am PT
Cherish these adventures and hold them tight.
Very proud and oh...so jealous:-)

Thanks of the share!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Oct 21, 2015 - 03:34am PT
THE ROCK SAYS "COME CLIMB ME"




I mean EF yeah!

IT DOES

Size matters dude

I've got small rocks in spades.

This has been the driest roctober in years,

Then this morning ding ding ding

this is what greets me before the coffee

but after the dog walk.

Cowabunga dude

it's all in your attitude

Not that I needed it

But thanks for the serious stoke.

You need a programmable drone!


Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Oct 21, 2015 - 06:02am PT
More amazing stuff, Mr. Vitaly. You inspire us all. Just. Wow.

BAd
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Oct 21, 2015 - 06:31am PT
Looks like cool stuff. Good work and thanks for sharing!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Oct 21, 2015 - 06:42am PT
You're killing it man!

The features on that stone look amazing!
The Alpine

climber
The Sea
  Oct 21, 2015 - 07:14am PT
Supertopo High Sierra 3rd Edition - Vittles Classics... Available now!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 21, 2015 - 08:09am PT
Fabulous TR as always....keep the stoke going! See you in the Creek.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 21, 2015 - 09:01am PT
Really really awesome V, as usual!!

Beautiful place, beautiful stone, beautiful routes, beautiful pictures!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Oct 21, 2015 - 09:42am PT
Just when I think the Sierra season is winding down, I read your TR, and I'm ready to pack the bags!
John M

climber
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:06am PT
Man that is pretty country..


though by revealing this super duper ultra top secret area you will have to be summarily executed by drone.


Thanks for the trip report!
Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:11am PT
WOW that looks so amazing.
Best thing i have seen on ST in long time, thanks!
Travis Haussener

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:16am PT
TFPU, Keep up that hard work!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:19am PT
Vitaliy, I'm trying to imagine what your climbing resume will look like in a decade if you keep up this pace... staggering.

FA of Olympus Mons, in a push, no supplemental oxygen. Hitched a ride with Elon Musk in an early tourist run. Left Cheburashka in a new summit register.
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:24am PT
awesome thanks
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:37am PT
Those routes look super duper duper duper fun!

When I add more bolts they'll be even more fun!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:41am PT
those splitters must have been a pure joy to come across in an otherwise stunningly pretty slab.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 21, 2015 - 11:02am PT
Yeah the cairn ruined the whole place for me...not! Haha.
It is incredible to do TWO routes that are moderate and better than the South Face of Charlotte dome. Which was my favorite moderate prior to this.
There is another new route Brian and I did that is better than these two. Hope to have enough time to post about it by the end of the month. Simply great.
Not sure what my resume will look like in the future. If the stoke for climbing will be as high as it is now, it will likely include a few more routes. Hopefully :)
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Oct 21, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
How much are you sandbagging the 5.7 friction after the 100' run-out? I'm trying to decide whether or not this goes on my list :)
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Oct 21, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
How much are you sandbagging the 5.7 friction after the 100' run-out? I'm trying to decide whether or not this goes on my list :)

From what I've seen he doesn't sand bag and if there's serious risk that far in the backcountry he'll be honest about it. Basically he's weak sauce.

Why just last week I tried to haul him up a little four pitch FA and after leading half of one pitch he took a baby fall and came down complaining about how his skin was stuck on the rock or some BS. Alaina basically had to resuscitate him and carry him up an alternative route. I followed and kept slipping on all the tears.

In fact, I bet both of these routes are 5.5-

But holy crap does that rock look fun! Score!

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 21, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
Superb!

John
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Oct 21, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
Off the hook Vitaliy!

Yafer

Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
  Oct 21, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
You are doing great! What awesome accomplishment.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Oct 21, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
yessssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 21, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
Why just last week I tried to haul him up a little four pitch FA and after leading half of one pitch he took a baby fall and came down complaining about how his skin was stuck on the rock or some BS.

Everything correct, but the baby fall with ripped flesh involved was after a few other falls as I remember...that guy is a complete wanker! :)
reach

Trad climber
Brisbane, CA
  Oct 21, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
A fine TR indeed! I enjoy your stoke sir. Keep it up.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Oct 21, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
This inspired me to log in to Supertopo after quite a long time has passed - SO COOL! I hope I get to experience these routes at some point! I too am curious how bad the 5.7 friction after 100 feet... I am somewhat of a wuss about something like that... if it was on chicken head 5.6, no prob, but damn 5.7 friction... yikes! Thanks for this post, very psyche inspiring!!!! These are on the bucket list now.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 21, 2015 - 09:19pm PT
I would not sandbag anyone who would do a climb so far out. I usually try to say things as they are, in this case it is for sure no harder than 5.7. I am no slab climbing master, it was kind of heady knowing the gear was far below but it wasn't bad. Was not one of those slippery spots on very popular climbs. These two are for sure good climbs to repeat. Another long moderate 10a we did on Hamilton Dome's south buttress is mega. For sure better than south face of Charlotte. Variety of cracks, slinging chicken heads for pro, corners, handcracks. It is all there! Sooo good. Wish it was easier to approach that one, but that's the way it is. If it was close to the road, there would be lines and lines of people at the base. Hard to explain how awesome something is, will post a report later. :)
RyanD

climber
  Oct 21, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
modern climbers only get the leftover choss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


When's the guidebook coming out with all your secret areas so u can make money offa them!!!!!!!!!!!!


Jk, Hamilton lakes area looks off the charts and these routes you guys did look so worthy- have you done sabre ridge yet??
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 21, 2015 - 10:22pm PT
I think I will leave the guidebook business for those with strong organization skills. I am more of a deal with the logistics, work and go climbing type of guy.

Saber ridge is really good yeah. That was the first climb we did on the first trip into the area. Super fun solo with very good rock. Also we did two new routes next to it. One on the Prism and one on the Globe. Rock on those formations is also very good. I'd say every other formation that I climbed on in the area has consistently better rock than the Angel Wings, unfortunately. And route we did on a formation we named the Rowell Tower was garbage. Awesome formation but the climb was not one I would recommend to a friend. Wondering, difficult, run out, sh#t rock in places, without pitches I'd call glory. More like 'wow, that was a ballsy lead above sh#t gear brah, now hope I don't pull a 100 pound flake on your head.'

Imissed the part where you used hexes and weren't a gym climber?


Hey I specify that I am an annoying gym climber in my ST profile! Especially the annoying part can't get stressed enough. Give credit where credit is due. :)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Oct 21, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
The rock looks insane!!!
Nice work!
Can you hire mules there?
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Oct 22, 2015 - 08:04am PT
Man, do you really have to rub it in our faces this way?


GOOD JOB!!
sharperblue

Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
  Oct 22, 2015 - 09:57am PT
Your routes in such an incredible area are their own reward; the best any of us can ever achieve is a life worth living, which you clearly are; it's a pleasure to follow your adventures, Sir
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 22, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
Can you hire mules there?

YES! I made three trips into Hamilton Lakes area during the last summer, but never had to use mules. The trail is really nice and there is not that much elevation gain. But the service IS available. Not sure how much it costs.

Great way to save weight is to buy the fuel (for jetboil) and food at Bearpaw meadow, when they are opened. Prices are reasonable. Really good brownies and they have dehydrated food and all sorts of bars, chips, sandwiches. Great guys work there.

Man, do you really have to rub it in our faces this way?

The point of my post is to get people to check out that area for themselves. Do any sort of climbing, hiking or trailrunning, it is a great place to spent a few days. I swear, I could lay around Hamilton Lakes for days, if I had the time, I would. So far only a few rest days up there, fortunately and not.
During the big rain, What Dreams May Come turns into a giant waterfall. I would avoid doing it in iffy conditions.

Your routes in such an incredible area are their own reward; the best any of us can ever achieve is a life worth living, which you clearly are; it's a pleasure to follow your adventures, Sir

Thank you Scott. Your photos and pointers have led me to check multiple new areas for myself in the past. I wish you posted more about original outings that you have had. Fuel the stoke! :)
Banks

Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
  Oct 22, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
This $%#& has to stop. Now! Climbable rock is a finite resource. If you keep this up, the Sierra will be climbed out in another 2-3 seasons. For all we know, you've already climbed it all and are just slowly releasing the news to us mortals piece by piece. Enough already. Please! Think of the children!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Oct 22, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
What, is that chossy little crag a road cut? And it looks like these lines are squeeze jobs.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 25, 2015 - 03:40am PT
Just awesome V!!!!!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Oct 25, 2015 - 05:09am PT
Your TR's are the best.
Great Sierra scenery, great pictures, great climbing, great descriptions.
The whole context is great.
Really appreciate your contributions
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Oct 25, 2015 - 07:12pm PT
That rock does look better than Charlotte Dome. So fine.

Gotta get back up there and climb.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Oct 26, 2015 - 10:28am PT
This thread was included in SuperTopo Climbing News - http://goo.gl/Fhw0av
Go