Trip Report
Long's Peak, via The Loft TR
Monday September 7, 2009 6:02pm
On a recent road trip to Colorado on September 6, 2009, we climbed Long's Peak 14,255' via The Loft.

From the Long's Peak Area Ranger Station and trailhead, 8 miles south of Estes Park, hike 3 miles to the Chasm Lake Junction. Hike to Chasm Lake in 3/4 mile and go past the privy and rescue cabin - don't go up to the lake. Before the scramble up to the lake, head south on boot tracks up grass initially, then boulders, scree and dirt 1400' to a point directly below a huge snowfield above the cliff bands. From high up the huge slope find the 10' wide ledge that crosses up and left through the cliffs. About 150 yards up the ledge, switchback up and right (west) and gain The Loft -a huge flat expanse (20 footall fields). Hike across the Loft to the west. Lose 20' of elevation and watch for a cairn. Go right around the corner and immediately drop 150' and work through small cliffs and coluoirs heading northwest. There are many boot tracks in this area. Once past the gullies in this area, hike up on scree toward the summit - now visible. At the elevation of the notch at the top of the coluoir follow another wide easy ledge left to the base of the Homestretch - the final section of the Keyhole Route. Scramble to the top.

Descend the same way if you want, although we descended the Keyhole.

Class 3, 6.2 miles up, 5,500' gain, 8 miles on descent, 11 hours

Captions on top people.

Early start.

Note the snowfield top center, aim for that.

High on the slope.

The Loft.

Summit area.

Descending north on the Ledges from the Trough.

Approaching the Keyhole.

The boulder field below the Keyhole.

North Face.

The end.

  Trip Report Views: 2,643
the museum
About the Author
the museum is a trad climber from Rapid City.


Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Sep 7, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
Great photos!

Glad to see the missus has healed up!

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Sep 7, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
Way to go, nice one.

I liked the "walk like an Egyptian" shot on top.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Sep 7, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
Done it once solo.
Isn't that Gorrel's Traverse?

Used it again to do Zumies Thumb from the summit of Long's.
Captain...or Skully

Boise, ID
  Sep 7, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
Excellent TR.(as always).....I, too, am glad to see Mrs. Museum out & about.
Who's that doin' the classic "Big Fig"?.......Awesome move, that.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Sep 8, 2009 - 11:54am PT
That musta been a big day.

purdy cool.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Sep 8, 2009 - 12:06pm PT
Thanks for this, Sir Museum.

Having not yet set foot in RMNP I gobble up photos of Longs. Seems like a magical peak to me.

And I've gotta say you Colorado climbers got balls. Posing on the summit with a giant rain squall bearing down behind you?? I woulda been running off the summit! must not be worth commenting on by you locals, but what's that cool little stone hut at the Keyhole?

Trad climber
Lee, NH
  Sep 8, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
That shot looking towards the East Face from the valley below Chasm Lake catches
the spirit of the place -- mountains often look most awesome from the approach.

No thunder with that rain?
goatboy smellz

Gulf Breeze
  Sep 8, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
Cool family trip museum!

DR that’s the Agnes Vaille memorial shelter by the keyhole.
Linky here for history…
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Sep 8, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
that squall was to the east and most of the weather comes from the west, something that causes lots of surprises for Diamond climbers.
the museum

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
The mrs. says thanks and it's true she is doing really well. (And that is her on the summit doing the big fig newton).

Goatboy thanks for the link on the hut.

Chiloe, yes there was alot of thunder and lightning, but is is true the strom brewed up east of the summit and moved out. We had a few tense moments, however...

Also, we got nailed during the NEXT storm on the descent at 11,500'.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 9, 2009 - 02:13am PT
40 yrs ago my Dad and I climbed the Cables route and came down the Keyhole. We had to wait out a huge hail storm on the descent.

This brings me right back there. Cheers and Congrats to the Museum family!
the museum

Trad climber
Author's Reply  Sep 9, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
Jaybro, we climbed the Cables Route and descended the Keyhole in 2006. What a fantastic tour that is! The weather was perfect that day. ah the memories..

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Sep 9, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
Frick yeah that looks like a great day right there!

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Sep 9, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Awesome photos, now I gotta go! Thanks for posting.