Trip Report
Locker, Brokedown, and Tim Go Climbing...kinda! Vedauwoo survived, tho'.
Tuesday July 23, 2013 10:28pm
Locker and I have been talking about a trip to Vedauwoo for some time, and today was the day! We met up at 11:00 (Alpine Start, of course!). What we hadn't counted on was the blazing Sun and very hot weather. First requirement for a climb was some blessed SHADE, which was dammed hard to find. We noted that Cornelius was still in a shady little nook, and we set out for it's alcove.

After hemming and hawing around, locker was elected to lead the route:

Locker tying in while Tim belays and I get to take pictures and laugh!
Locker tying in while Tim belays and I get to take pictures and laugh!
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Locker made me promise to show his great protection for the climb:

Locker has 3 pieces of well spaced protection; unfortunately he's obsc...
Locker has 3 pieces of well spaced protection; unfortunately he's obscuring them with his manly chest....
Credit: Brokedownclimber

After locker topped out, it was my turn. My BIG mistake was wearing SHORTS!

Brokedownclimber, concentrating on crystals.
Brokedownclimber, concentrating on crystals.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Tim wanted to lead the pitch, too.

Tim, leading the pitch.
Tim, leading the pitch.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

The Sun was now hitting us in the little alcove, so we set out looking for a climb in the shade. Locker suggested something on the East side of Nautilus, but most of the climbs were either in the Sun or already occupied. We nearly circumnavigated the Nautilus formation, but finally beat a retreat to the parking lot for some food, water, and a spot of shade under a tree. After the refreshment break, I had to pull up stakes and head home for a business matter.
Hopefully locker will continue his portion...


  Trip Report Views: 1,371
Brokedownclimber
About the Author
Brokedownclimber is a trad climber from Douglas, WY.

Comments
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philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Jul 23, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
Good on Ya Rodger. TFPU.

"Locker has 3 pieces of well spaced protection; unfortunately he's obscuring them with his manly chest...."
I loved that line.

But how did you get Locker unglued from the floor?
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
Sounds like fun! Glad you are getting out and getting it done!

Though I don't quite buy the "hot" business. Not Vedauwoo. Got snowed in in August, once.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
Great to see you & Locker out climbing.

Damn! It seems to be nearly too-hot to climb every-where in the Rockies.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
I hate climbing in the sun unless it's less than 70 degrees. Looks hot, but some climbing is better than no climbing.
locker

climber
STFU n00b!!!
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:42pm PT


Probably had something to do with the heat, slipping like a MoFo on polished crystals and being "High as a kite", but I swear that little for shizzle climb had me slightly SKETCHED...

LMAO!!!...



I just got back...

We stuck it out until around 7pm or so...

What a kick Rodger!!!...

Let's meet up again real soon and do it again!!!...



I have a photo or two somewhere I'll post up as soon as I re-up, my re-up...




MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Good selection of things to remember for your next outing. Good that you remembered your rock shoes. Amazing what a person can forget after a lifetime of climbing. Made me think, and laugh.
locker

climber
STFU n00b!!!
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:53pm PT


Tim and Rodger...

Rodger is the one wearing the hat...

Tim is the one wearing the "Chodemet"...

photo not found
Missing photo ID#312648
...




Rodger and yours truly...

photo not found
Missing photo ID#312651
...



Tim and the alternate n00b...

Credit: locker
...

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:03am PT
It was fun, even though my knee was still sore...from falling off the swather-windrower 2 weeks ago.

Next time I wear my climbing pants, too!

The elevation at Vedauwoo is around 8,000 feet, and the solar gain on a clear day is phenomenal, which makes even 80 degrees seem "dammed hot!"
locker

climber
STFU n00b!!!
  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:08am PT


"The elevation at Vedauwoo is around 8,000 feet, and the solar gain on a clear day is phenomenal, which makes even 80 degrees seem "dammed hot!""...

With my already for sh!t breathing issues...

that bit of altitude gain actually got to me a wee bit...

And you're right!!!...

Made it feel even hotter than it was...

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:11am PT
slipping like a MoFo on polished crystals

hahaha, welcome to Vedauwoo....

locker

climber
STFU n00b!!!
  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:11am PT


I'm now properly re-upped...

;-)

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:16am PT
I fuked up by not trying my brand new pair of Boreal Ballet Golds on this climb! Left at home, new in the box!

I was really pleased with the new La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoes, though. We did just enough scrambling around the boulders to be amazed at their sticky rubber properties.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:25am PT
locker's absolutely correct about the slick rock on Cornelius; I did it several times before, back in the 1980s when it was really "5.5."

Compared to the Cowboy/Cowgirl Route start (5.5) at City of Rocks, it felt more like a 5.7-5.8! There have been literally thousands of ascents over this short route, and the result is a real polish job. It's extremely popular with beginners and their instructors.
gonzo chemist

climber
the east coast, for now.
  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:52am PT
Awesome! Walked by you guys lounging in the afternoon under a tree! I THOUGHT that might be Locker, but wasn't quite sure.

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Awesome.

DMT
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
  Jul 24, 2013 - 07:47am PT
What's with all the secret gang signs..?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 24, 2013 - 09:47am PT
Hoh man gimme a call next time you come up here! Yesterday was the first rest day in a long while, woulda been perfect heckling conditions!
And you were there too, gonzo? I drove by nautilus parking yesterday about five thirty.
And yeah, it is hot in the sun. @8400' it's almost like being in tuolumne, sun wise. Better than you expect in the shade though!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Jul 24, 2013 - 11:32am PT
You dudes are the Mack!
gonzo chemist

climber
the east coast, for now.
  Jul 24, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Jaybro,

I went up there in the afternoon to climb Maxilash (didn't go so well), then Flare Thee Well (on toprope---I'll NEVER lead that thing); at around 5ish we went over to Desiderata, then some other boulder problem on the Turtle Rock Trail.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
  Jul 24, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
Brokedown wrote "I was really pleased with the new La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoes, though. We did just enough scrambling around the boulders to be amazed at their sticky rubber properties"

agree. these shoes are The Mack

Credit: Sewellymon
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 24, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
any trip to Ved is worthy.

ipso facto crushacto, this tr is worthy
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
Vedauwoo was my "home area" for 4 years while in Graduate School in Laramie (1968-1972), so I never miss a chance for another visit. But, that said, I was appalled to see how popular it's become and how polished the rock!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 25, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
Awesome Rodger looks like a grrrrreaaaat day!!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 25, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
This place has been my 'home crag' since jan '77. Even when I lived thousands of miles away.

What can I say? This place is the Mack!!
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
I'd follow those dudes anywhere. Nice TR!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
Dang, next time I'll have to ask to join the expedition. Cheers!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 15, 2013 - 11:49am PT
Yeah! Climbing!
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