Levitation 29 5.11c

 
  • Currently 5.0/5
Search
Go

Eagle Wall


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
Levitation with Jebus and Fold Out with T-Pain (mostly) Photo-TR

by WML
Monday October 21, 2013 4:29pm
Shortly after I moved to Vegas, Jebus came to visit. Our original gameplan was to climb Eagle Dance on the Eagle Wall. Things were all laughs until we wound up botching the approach and wound up on extremely exposed exfoliating (ex ex ex?) onion skin sandstone. Not fun. The stoke and laughter which had carried us up Oak Creek Canyon had a shadow cast upon it. A few pitches up, we decided to go down - simply not feeling it. The hike out left a bad taste in my our mouths and the only benefit of wandering up there at that point was to be able to dial in the right approach by descending it.

Soundtrack for the TR:

The approach went much more smoothly this time - just under 2 hours to the base of the route from the Oak Creek TH on the scenic loop.



View from the approach
View from the approach
Credit: WML

WML on the approach
WML on the approach
Credit: WML

WML scoping it out
WML scoping it out
Credit: WML

Jebus enjoying P2
Jebus enjoying P2
Credit: WML

Credit: WML

Jebus following P3 - the only pitch I lead on the rig.
Jebus following P3 - the only pitch I lead on the rig.
Credit: WML

Credit: WML

Jebus starting up the crux 5th pitch - our last for the day
Jebus starting up the crux 5th pitch - our last for the day
Credit: WML

Jebus after the 5.11c 5th pitch crux!!!!
Jebus after the 5.11c 5th pitch crux!!!!
Credit: WML

Jebus (L) and WML (R)
Jebus (L) and WML (R)
Credit: WML

Amazing views
Amazing views
Credit: WML

WML stoked!!!
WML stoked!!!
Credit: WML



With temperatures reaching 80 in Las Vegas that day and approaching 75 at the visitor's center, things got hot up there pretty quickly. We rapped after P5 given the sizzling temps and their impact on how wonderful our shoes felt. The skin on the back of my heels is still trying to recover from that sizzling.

Levitation lived up to the hype - spectacular, technical, and difficult (for me) climbing in an exceptional position. We rapped with a single 75m rope and it was casual.

Down we went!



Zach rapping through beautiful varnish
Zach rapping through beautiful varnish
Credit: WML

Credit: WML

Jebus with Rainbow Wall in the background
Jebus with Rainbow Wall in the background
Credit: WML

The day we climbed this also happened to be Jebus' birthday - not a bad climb to hop on for your birthday and I am honored to have gotten to share that with him.

The next morning Jebus went back northward to the BLC and one of my Vegas padnahs joined in on the fun - we went for a mellow cruise up Fold Up, a classic single pitch 5.8 cruise

T-Pain down low
T-Pain down low
Credit: WML

T-Pain approaching the fun crux section
T-Pain approaching the fun crux section
Credit: WML

T-Pain cruxfittin'
T-Pain cruxfittin'
Credit: WML

After running up that we decided that grabbing some Roberto's taco shop for lunch sounded great...shortly after that I was back at my house helping my girlfriend put out Halloween decorations. Living in Las Vegas can be weird sometimes, but the backyard sure as hell doesn't suck.

  Trip Report Views: 2,900
WML
About the Author
WML is a purveyor of premium malt liquor beverages, margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together, nor necessarily in that order) who lives to redline the fun meter

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion
  Oct 21, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
This is dumb.

And those DMM offsets are garbage.

And Jebus smells like old hair.
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Oct 21, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
Nice job guys!!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
This trip report is as stupid as that DUMB WOODFORDS LADY!!!1

The approach was LIGHT.

The climbing was stupid ease A!

The the thing that truly SUCKED is the route made me want to mount Lynnie Hill like an enraged WILDEBEEST and have crazy SPIDER MONKEY sex until chills ran up and down my spine like RABID JACKELS. The crux of the biscuit was I only had WESTON there! Shiver me timbers!!!111

OK, I acknowledge my atrocious John Long impression. It seemed funny en route?
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
HO MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it was definitely funny on route.


NOW YOU'RE A MAN, MAYUN MAYUN MAYUN
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Awesome job, guys!
HapBir to you, Jebus! Looks like you celebrated in style!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
Shred the GNAR y'all
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
Appreciate it, Leggs. It wasn't bad!
The Chief

climber
The Land of the Mongols above Bishop
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Please don't say you actually placed modern C3/C4's, Aliens and Offsets.

Come on WES.

Corded Stoppers/HEX's or nothing.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
Nice TR....thanks! Love that climb.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Nice rock, nice sky, nice smiles!!!! Happy times, great TR

Susan
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  Oct 22, 2013 - 10:01am PT
I can remember when we first did the FFA on that rig I kept looking up thinking there was no way the next pitch would go. Such an improbable place - like a legitimate big wall setting - to feature all those great hand and foot holds. Plus George had installed all those bolts. There were no sport climbs back then (1980) and it seemed like cheating to clip all those bolts - there were many we didn't even need. Now the climb has been done like 5,000 times has cleaned up nicely and still delivers a great buzz to one and all. Because there are no pin scars, aside from the chalk, every ascent feels like the 1st.

Always love these trip reports. It's like climbing the route twice.

Man, that's a slog getting in there but it adds to the full bodied macho man/goil nature of the route. Great views from up there.

Jebus is The Man! And great pics as well!

JL
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  Oct 21, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Thanks for including us on the ride!

I'll have to get to RR one of these days, now that I'm in reasonable driving distance.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Oct 22, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Thanks everyone for the comments and for having a look. Always cool to get a part of the FA party's insight as well - what makes Supertopo as cool as it is.

Rick - The wireds were still on my harness, right? :) Clearly only a man if I place those slung wind chimes

Largo - That thing is a slog, but getting out is way more rough on the body than the way in. Felt tired but good when we got back to the shade in the wash, but felt like I got hit by a train by the time we got back to my car.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:38pm PT

Jebus is The Man! And great pics as well!

Holy cow, Largo, I think I can stop climbing now! Thanks for the compliment.

I guess more manly men would have actually topped the rig. Gotta say though, that desert sun drained us like a sponge.

Heat aside, it was cool to be on the wall in the desolation, maybe something like you had on the FFA. I thought about y'all developing that route while climbing actually. From the Uriostes plucking such a gem of a line, to the proud effort of you and Lynn Hill launching into an aid route, it has proven a very worthy line. And now punters like Weston and I can enjoy those deep canyon lines! Proper respect to you.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  Oct 22, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
You have to have gotten stuck in one of those canyons at the Red Rocks to understand what heat is really about. They don't call it Solar Slab for nothing. I've been back there when you could literally fry eggs on the rock. You rap at that point - or die.

JL
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Oct 23, 2013 - 08:55am PT
Thanks again for chiming in, Largo. It is amazing how up there, even with relatively moderate temperatures, being on the wall can make you feel like the aforementioned egg...
msiddens

Trad climber
  Nov 14, 2013 - 11:59am PT
love the RR
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 14, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Thanks for bumping this, because I missed it the first go-around. Excellent!

John
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Nov 14, 2013 - 02:17pm PT

Nice job, lads!
Neat pics, thanks for sharing!
yehcrub

Gym climber
San Diego
  Jan 2, 2014 - 11:41am PT
BBST!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jan 9, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
I clipped every bolt just to lighten my load,,right,,//does take ya back reading other folks trips,,thanks,,,
10b4me

climber
  Mar 13, 2014 - 09:14am PT
Bump
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Mar 13, 2014 - 09:36am PT
Nice one! We got rained off the top of the second pitch of L29 last spring, it was the last day of our trip so still haven't gotten a chance for redemption. Can't wait to go back! Well done!


portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 17, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
Bump
thebravecowboy

climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
all these photos of rock climbing, I want more politard drivel!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
A bump for Jebus and Kermit the frog. Seriously good stuff.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Eagle Wall - Levitation 29 5.11c - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Eagle Wall
Eagle Wall - Eagle Dance 5.10c A0 - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Eagle Dance, 5.10c A0
Eagle Wall
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

With new bolts, Eagle Dance is destined to become a classic.
Eagle Wall - Ringtail 5.10d - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Ringtail, 5.10d
Eagle Wall
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5