Trip Report
Last Train To Clarksville With Jeremy, Dia De Los Diablo
Wednesday November 16, 2011 1:00pm
Credit: survival

Last Train To Clarksville.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUUSdvwEC_Y


Sad to say, but for undisclosed reasons, this will be the final Jeremy and Survival TR for awhile.


The good news is that it was the most AWESOME mid-November day ever!

A new friend from CA contacted me about getting acquainted with New Mexico climbing. We set up a date for Monday. Unfortunately, _ _ _ _ _ came down with a bad case of Californiapussinossis and was unable to make it.

You know who you are, and you know I'm kidding!

Jeremy insisted that we go to someplace I hadn't been before. He insisted, Diablo Canyon. So, it was ON!!



This place is SOOOOO much better than it appears at first glance.

Credit: survival




Credit: survival




First up was Post Moderate. 5.9, but very long, surprisingly steep and pumpy.
We're talking can't get down with one rope long, like 140 feet?

Credit: survival




Credit: survival






Jeremy kept hollering about the incredible incut holds everywhere.
Credit: survival







Credit: survival





Amazing holds abound, but still steep enough to get plenty of exercise!!

Credit: survival






Credit: survival





Borrowed shot from Mt Proj.
Credit: survival
Cool shot eh?










Perfect fall sunshine with the magnificent Sangre De Cristo Mts for a backdrop!!

Credit: survival








Back in a bit!!!

  Trip Report Views: 1,587
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

Comments
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neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Nov 16, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
Awesome....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 16, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
Amazing looking rock! Never heard of the place, but definitely want to check it out next time I'm in N.M. Thanks for sharing this.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Nov 16, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
Wow Survival, what a difference when you post the photo via another website vs uploading to ST - so much better.

Thanks for the glimpse of somewhere new. Jealous!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 16, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
NIce Bruce, amazing how much climbing can make me so happy, especially in the cold weather times, huh?
Jeremy

climber
  Nov 16, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
More pics Bruce!!!!!!!

Man, what a SWEET DAY!

WOO HOO!

J
jeff leads

Sport climber
ca
  Nov 16, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
Bruce,

Sorry I missed this trip. Got a shot for the calipussinossis and they tell me syptoms should clear up in a week or two. Looks like you boys had a great time. Nice looking rock and pictures!

next time,

Jeff
Bowser

Social climber
Durango CO
  Nov 16, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
Nice Survival.

We drove out there one day to climb Post Mod but it started snowing. It is still on my hit list.

TB
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 16, 2011 - 04:37pm PT
Survival, is rilodyte (spelling), similar to basalt?
Jeremy

climber
  Nov 16, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
Hey Bruce!

It's been a BLAST BUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MORE PICS!!!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
I'll get some more pix up tonight J, I promise.

Gotta hustle for a bit longer!



So sorry we missed you Jeff!
Two more routes to go!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
Credit: survival





Credit: survival





Credit: survival
























Oh, did I forget to tell you about the .11d that Jeremy stuck us on?

Got a nice little spanking out of that one, but I'm saving it for last.....


Next up was Naked Lunch, another amazing, looong, steep pumpy pitch.
Only about mid-ten, but really full value.


It ends up on quite the exposed, airy arete. And it's a long pitch, so it feels pretty exciting up there!


Coming up after dinner!!

Survival, is rilodyte (spelling), similar to basalt?


Ryholite and basalt are cousins in the igneous family tree....
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 16, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
Looks like a fun day out for you guys, as usual.
Sad to see the end of the bromance, though.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 16, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
Sad to see the end of the bromance, though.


No sh#t brutha. I still love you both though!



Check out the steep arete straight above on Naked Lunch!


















































Jeremy led it also.









































The ass whoopin' is still ahead. And the sunset!!
Bowser

Social climber
Durango CO
  Nov 16, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
If I remember right, there is a nice looking 5.9 hand/finger crack just to the right.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Nov 16, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
SWEEEEET Bruce...

Oh ....way homo.

P.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 17, 2011 - 10:45am PT
Thanks guys. Ok, time for a little 11d butt kick action.
We thought we were on the classic 10+ Grape Ape, but were ten feet too far to the left and ended up on Pale Face, 11d!!
(No wonder we thought we were weak and lame...)

Jeremy led over half of it, flamed, and lowered down to give me a go.
I climbed to the high point, got 3 more bolts clipped, flamed, lowered.
Jeremy went back up and got the chains. We were WORKED!!




















Another shot borrowed from Mtn Project.
Credit: survival



















Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 17, 2011 - 10:53am PT
Some guys have all the fun.

Could this also have been title "Two Goofs in a Gulch"?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 17, 2011 - 08:54pm PT
Two goofs in a gulch...sounds about right!


SUNSET !!





























Twilight drive!! Thanks for all the good times J.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 18, 2011 - 06:12pm PT
Shameless self bump for Hankster.

Hey at least theres 5.10, 5.11 and good pix in it!!
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Nov 18, 2011 - 06:47pm PT
Awesome pics!
AlexCobbs

Trad climber
Santa Fe, NM
  Nov 18, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
Great to see some action out at Diablo. Excellent pics there Survival. Looks like you and Jeremy had a stellar time. It is a very sweet area. I haven't climbed much there yet, I plan to though.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 19, 2011 - 09:18am PT
Thanks Alex. That Winter Wall is really something. What a fun place!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Nov 19, 2011 - 10:26am PT
Fun looking area. Nice job, boyz!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 19, 2011 - 10:45am PT
Thanks Survival!

Love your Gneiss & Gnarly trip reports!
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 19, 2011 - 11:07am PT
Hey. . . I know this place. . . went to a sushi fest there one time!

And. . . WAY HOME AND LIGHT!

:-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 19, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
Yo eKat, yes, I think that was the first sushi-fest after I got here?

Can't believe I didn't make it to that one.....
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Nov 20, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
What gorgeous-looking rock! Thanks for the pix.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Non-FA, Old Guy, Smoked on 11d, New Mexico Bumpage!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 29, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
Srvival, you are right from your first photo with the crag in the distance it looks like choss, but you can see the rock quality in the up close photos. They look like fairly long pitches for sport climbs as well. Nice thread.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Aug 9, 2012 - 11:57am PT
Bump just 'cause I miss my fremisis Jeremy........
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Aug 9, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
SAWEET man!
Silver

Gym climber
  Aug 9, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
Nice looking area with what looks like my kind of approach.

Jeremy get up here for some Pho and some local choss. Bring the ice climbing kit.

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Aug 9, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
what looks like my kind of approach.

You got that right Silver. The approach there doesn't even reach the bottom rung of the approach/pain/suffer interface scale!!
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Aug 14, 2012 - 01:32pm PT
Great Pictures ! Looks like a fun pile of choss
:)

steve
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 16, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
BBST!
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