Trip Report
Kalymnos III
Tuesday October 24, 2017 12:37am
I returned to Kalymnos again for the third year in a row this Sept/Oct 2017. I love the place. It now seems like it's own magical place in a vaccum to me;....don't feel like I am in Europe or in a strange foreign land.....just my "home " away from home and my happy spot. Kalymnos is a great place for me. It takes "forever" to get there, but once you are there, it's all laid out for you. The scooter rides, the beaches, the climbing sectors, the cool places to hang out and eat at, the friendly people and the awesome views, great weather. This year we stayed over 20 days; a long time to be away from my family. Guess I will just have to go there with my family one of these days.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

more photos to come.....
stand by...

It's not a race....or is it.... <br/>
It's not a race....or is it....

Credit: Todd Gordon

some of the routes are a wee bit close to each other........it may just be a Euro thing...I don't know.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Stacy Hendrickson sends.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Dr. Tom Michael posed for limestone

Credit: Todd Gordon

flexability is strength

Credit: Todd Gordon

with the power, comes the glory.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Steep rock, positive holds......

Credit: Todd Gordon

Marc Walters....in the house....(the powerhouse...)

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Kip Aszman.......on his every year trip to Kalymnos from Portland.....amazing climber

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Beautiful , strong, and graceful Polish climber...(My wife is Polish....Tomaszewski...).....


more photos to come.....it takes too long to do this all at once.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Palm Spring limestone expert Marc Walters

Credit: Todd Gordon

The view that makes one homesick for Kalymnos.....never tire of this...

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Leila Flanagan;....the pride of Redlands, California. Exceptional climber and wonderful human and awesome pal.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Leila Flanagan and her belay boy Mike Flanagan;....a great team that gets the job done.......

Credit: Todd Gordon

The beautiful, smart and talented Stacy Hendrickson

Credit: Todd Gordon

Leila Flanagan;..power and grace...

Credit: Todd Gordon

Stacy Hendrickson shreds

Credit: Todd Gordon

Kip Azsman;...limestone machine

Credit: Todd Gordon

things are looking up for Mike Flanagan.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Tom Michael....happy and on vacation in Kalymnos

Credit: Todd Gordon

Portland's own;....Kip Azsman

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

It's always euro party time at the Ghost Kitchen sector...

Credit: Todd Gordon

super cool dude with a bionic lead.....awesome stuff!

Credit: Todd Gordon

awesome climbers everywhere.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

wonderful climbs...wonderful climbers...

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Go Leila, go Leila.....go Leila,.....go Leila.....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Legit slab climbing...right side of Ghost Kitchen Sector

Tom Michael ponders his immediate future.
Tom Michael ponders his immediate future.
Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Stacy Hendrickson;...awesome girl...

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Steve Belford;....power to waste...

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Stacy Hendrickson on the tufas.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Marc Walters on the tufas.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Kalymnos favorite couple;....Brits Linzi Walton and Paul Wilson. They came to climb.

Credit: Todd Gordon

The amazing Marc Walters. Working class hero.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Hiking the trails in palms springs and days at the gym pays off...

Credit: Todd Gordon

Steve Belford;.....mega strong

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Brit climbing star Linzi Walton.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Chalk lip balm

Credit: Todd Gordon

On vacation and happy together

Credit: Todd Gordon

Steel fingers and nerves.....
yeah.....what he said....

Credit: Todd Gordon

great views up high.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Linzi Walton; superstar

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

The amazing Bill Povolny, from Reno, Nevada

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Swedish sensation Saara Muhli

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Cz. climbing master Radim Bedan

Credit: Todd Gordon

Marc Walters, calculating his next move, planning his next conquest.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

lots of beauty at the crags...

Credit: Todd Gordon

like I said earlier....lots of beauty at the crags...

Credit: Todd Gordon

this was my favorite climb on the trip....
Le Bi Mobile (6b)
Princess Canyon, Telendos

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Why do we climb?.....so we can hang out with our homies....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Bishop's own Karen Roseme........on it..

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Lisa Rodgers.......west coast climbing sensation.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Lisa Rodgers getting her slab on....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

one of my favorite crags; Prophitis Andreas

Credit: Todd Gordon

My awesome pregnant climbing pal from Luxembourgh, Sandy Kirtz. Got to hang out with her and her friends last year and this. Pool party!

Credit: Todd Gordon

Euro-party....now we don't talk anymore....

Credit: Todd Gordon

Lisa Rodgers, a traveling nurses from Pennsylvania, joined me for my last 5 days of the Kalymnos trip; we climbed a lot in 5 days. We have climbed together in Joshua tree, Wyoming, southern Yosemite, etc....so it was nice to meet to up climb in Kalymnos.

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Credit: Todd Gordon

Lisa and I did do that moderate 5 pitch climb left of
Sparticus called Three Stripes. It was really cool.

Credit: Todd Gordon















  Trip Report Views: 2,544
Todd Gordon
About the Author
Todd Gordon is a trad climber from Joshua Tree, Cal.

Comments
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frostback

Social climber
great white north
  Oct 24, 2017 - 02:12am PT
Excellent Todd!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Oct 24, 2017 - 06:32am PT
. Kalymnos has long been on the bucket list. I had a whole trip planned out in 2008. I got laid off due to the recession and had to cancel so it never happened .

Looking forward to your TR
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Oct 24, 2017 - 03:36pm PT
Looks great Todd! Retirement looks like it has been very, very good to you!

I need to get over there some time.

NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Oct 24, 2017 - 06:57pm PT
can't wait to see more pics!
michael hayes

Trad climber
san francisco, ca.
  Oct 25, 2017 - 11:11am PT
I am currently in Kalymnos until Oct. 29. With my partner Laurie Berliner. It is my 3rd time here and her 6th time. We are here for about 2.5 weeks, and have climbed at a different sector each day. It is around 70 degrees on average each day. Some days you can climb in the sun if there's a little wind, and some days you must follow the shade. Beautiful place, great vibe, but be prepared for crowds at certain crags, and enjoy the international vibe of hearing several different languages around you as you climb.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Author's Reply  Oct 28, 2017 - 02:59am PT
Be patient with my up-loading....it will take me a few sessions to post my pics and comments....it's slow, and my attention span is that of a 62 year old man...(strange thing, that is.....)......I am pacing myself...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 28, 2017 - 06:17am PT
Thanks Todd,
Retirement looks great on you!👍👊
COT

climber
Door Number 3
  Oct 28, 2017 - 07:43am PT
Nic TR Todd!

My wife and I are heading there for the month of November. We have travelled a fair amount overseas for climbing, but this our first time in Kalymnos. I am sure there are a zillion unique things about Kalymnos, but after three trips there, do you (or any one else) have any "special" pieces of advice/recommendations?

cheers

Dave
D2R2

Sport climber
Earth
  Oct 28, 2017 - 09:56am PT
Kalymnos is rad. The Ghost Kitchen sector is very unique and worth the visit!
MarkWestman

Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
  Oct 28, 2017 - 10:30am PT
COT-
I'm in Kalymnos right now, just finishing our first trip here. Five stars!!

A few things we learned:

-Tap water is not potable on the island. Buy a couple of gallon size water jugs and fill them at these free roadside potable water stations- there is one in Masouri and another in Myrties. They say TEMAK on them.

-renting a scooter is worthwhile as many good crags are far enough away that driving is needed. . Many places in Masouri rent them but many demand an international drivers license with a motorcycle endorsement. But we were able to find one (a place called "@lfa") that didn't care and rented a bike to us. Ä12/day

-Today, it seemed like lots of people were leaving to head home. Not sure what the coming weeks are typically like, but the last two weeks it has been crowded like I've never seen. I think there was a bank holiday in France and Germany this week. We've managed to get plenty of climbing nonetheless, but if it stays as it has been, you'd be wise to give up on the idea that you'll find solitude at any cliff. We've been all over the island and every crag we've climbed at, and every one we observed while driving by, has been kinda like the most crowded night at your local climbing gym that you can imagine. Somehow it always works out though; only once did we get stuffed, there was a group of 20 from a UK climbing club who effectively did a complete crag takeover. Otherwise we've managed to get all we needed each day. People are quite friendly and you can always find a route. With something like 60 different crags and over 3000 routes, i would never have imagined there could be so much crowding. Just accept that and roll with it. It is crowded for good reason!

-make sure to take the boat to Telendos Island and climb over there at least once, and finish the day eating dinner at "On the Rocks" restaurant.

-Great swimming beach at Paleonissos, immediately below a very nice climbing sector. (Sector 7 in the guidebook)

-several good climbing shops in Masouri selling chalk, shoes, ropes, etc.

-Avoid using the yellow ATM machines, apparently they have a very big service charge.

-the only bank or place to change money is in Pothia, about a 15-20 minute drive across the island.

-In my opinion the Aegean Tavern has the best food in Masouri, hands down. Get there early (~6PM) or make a reservation

-the locals are wonderful, very hospitable, honest, and friendly. The food is fabulous.

You'll be glad you have a month, and yet you might wish you had more time. This place is paradise.

Have a great time!


COT

climber
Door Number 3
  Oct 28, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
Mark, Thanks for the great beta!
missjr

Trad climber
  Oct 28, 2017 - 04:19pm PT
COT,

We also have been there two years in a row. However, this year we decided not to go simply because we thought three years in a row was maybe a bit much and there's other places to go and experience. Well, now we are realizing that we probably could have gone again this year and it would have been just fine. There is a reason people keep going back, year after year....
Like others have chimed in, we think this place is absolutely fantastic and is paradise. What Tom says about it feeling like a home away from home also resonates with us. The place is totally set up to accommodate climbers of ANY ability and is "civilized." We loved seeing people of different cultures, different levels of ability and all ages up at the crags having a great time. People are friendly and nice, food is cheap and delicious ( The Aegean is hands down amazing). For instance, a swordfish dinner freshly caught costs around 15.00 US dollars and can feed two people with a side salad. I don't know where here in the US you can get that price for the amount of food. Oh, and almost every place gives you dessert for free. One place gives you free wine with dessert, matching what you ordered for dinner.....this can be dangerous depending on if you ordered a liter or more already :)
The ocean is still warm enough to swim in during October into November which is a nice way to cap off a day of climbing or as a rest day activity. Accommodations are typically simple but are not that expensive, especially if splitting the costs with someone. We really enjoyed being there in the latter part of October into most of November because it wasn't as crowded, the temps were not too hot and the weather has overall been good to us. I think we will be heading back next fall during that time period.

JR
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Oct 28, 2017 - 04:22pm PT
Nice!
TFPU
Tad
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Author's Reply  Oct 28, 2017 - 04:33pm PT
Kalymnos can get crowded at the popular sectors;..this is true. There are some ways around this. Here is what I have found.

1) visit in less popular times. Most crowded time is October, I understand. It has cooled off and the climbing temps are better, summer is over, and also the yearly climbing festival is in October. Visit other than October. Because it is cooler and better for climbing in October, it is not as warm for swimming;...something to think about......I would rather have warmer climbing temps and swimming weather..then better climbing temps and poor temps for the beach or pool (just my take on it).
2) Visit sectors where you have to drive further and hike further. This is like any climbing areas;..the closer to the road and the easier to get to, the more crowded it will be. There are exceptions to this, of course. You have to drive and hike to Secret Garden, but it is often/usually busy.
3. Get your lazy ass up early and be the first at the crags. We did this most days and had the first 2 hours of each day at the crags mostly to ourselves....enough time to do 2, 3, or 4 routes, and tag the *** busiest routes when the crag was empty and the temps were nice and cool.
4. Go to Telendnos and go to the less visited areas. I doubt if Princess Canyon ever gets too crowded.
5. Climb in the sun and work on your tan. You will have the crag to yourself during the busy times of the year. I live in Joshua Tree;...that sun don't scare me.
6. Read up and find out when the least crowded months are...(and why), and visit then. Go to a different sector each day and learn which sectors are crowded when and why.
7. Visit often and do the classics. Soon you will have done all the "popular" and crowded routes, and you will then be on the less popular and less crowded routes.
8. Get mega strong and go on the climbs that are so hard no one except you can do them.
9. Each year there are more and more sectors opening up, thining out the crowds by having more routes available to climb.
10. Talk to the locals and guidebook author. See what sectors are being developed (some secretly, I bet) and get involved with that!
11. Climb at night with a headlamp.
12. Be loud and obnoxious and make all the climbers around you leave the sector (just kidding...)....

Yosemite is crowded but workable and wonderful. Joshua Tree is crowded with the camping and the parking and the classic roadside routes, but there is so much solitude in Joshua tree that it's frightening. City of Rocks is crowded a the popular crags. Tahquitz is crowded on the weekends (Suicide is a ghost town most days..). Climbing is popular. One reason why the crags are crowded is because YOU (and me) are there!. Red Rocks is crowded with the camping and classics...do something oddball and obscure. In most cases.....get your ass up early! Kalymnos is so off the charts awesome;....it's totally understandable why there are a lot of climbers there! Weekends are more crowded than weekdays. Accept that you will probably not have the crag to yourself. Meet cool people, have fun, party down, share, enjoy together....it's not Alaska or the Himalayas.


more photos to come.......stay with me here...
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Oct 28, 2017 - 04:41pm PT
Great photos, Todd. Wonderful that you got to go back again this year. It's such a pleasure to see people out there doing what they love.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
  Oct 28, 2017 - 04:59pm PT
SWEEEEET!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Author's Reply  Oct 29, 2017 - 06:08am PT
Kalymnos is a popular climbing place for reasons obvious.
Andy de klerk

Mountain climber
South Africa
  Oct 30, 2017 - 12:52pm PT
Hey Mark, thanks for your info. Kalymnos is so far removed from Alaska that itís actually a pretty good complement. The worlds best holiday climbing in my humble opinion.
We were there last month (first 2 weeks of September) Our second trip there at this time and it was just as fantastic.
Itís hot, but the sea is still warm for swimming, and you look for the sectors in the shade. Where else can you find 3000 routes from 4b to 9a within a 30 minute scooter ride and hear a Babel of languages at the crag? Love it!
Good climbing, good food, good friends, and so far from the Alaskan wilds that I have to laugh at how far weíve come to find the simple joys
Itís all good
Andy
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
  Oct 30, 2017 - 10:26pm PT
Looking great Todd! A working class hero is something to be!

 - - - Barry
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Oct 31, 2017 - 07:15am PT
You lucky sucker,Todd!!
I'm in The Valley and just met Steve and Karen, a couple that met over there. Sounded like a wonderful trip!!

Thanks for sharing.
gfdonc

climber
Melbourne Australia
  Oct 31, 2017 - 06:20pm PT
We went there for the first time in late August. Despite it being summer, and our dislike for climbing in hot weather, it was manageable. Most days were climbing in the morning (shade) then hit the beach in the afternoon. We're planning a return visit.
Trip report here with pix. http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=2&MessageID=11065&Replies=2&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost.
Caveats: $ values are in aussie dollars (around 77c US). Grades are French with Aussie (Ewbank) in brackets. Temps are in sensible scale (Celsius).
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2017 - 02:44pm PT
Added a few more pics......if you are planning a trip to Kalymnos, this should help. If you weren't planning a trip to Kalymnos,...maybe this could help (you to start planning one!)
maxn

Sport climber
grenoble
  Nov 7, 2017 - 04:30am PT
Nice photos! We just got back too, but stayed for only 10 days. We've been going since 2003, and it's been amazing to see how much development there has been. Here are a few photos of our trip
Secret Garden
Secret Garden
Credit: maxn
The beach!
The beach!
Credit: maxn
Unknown climber at Odyssey
Unknown climber at Odyssey
Credit: maxn
Patroclus
Patroclus
Credit: maxn
More Secret Garden
More Secret Garden
Credit: maxn
North Cape
North Cape
Credit: maxn
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Nov 10, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
TFPU mayor. Nice TR
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Nov 13, 2017 - 07:02pm PT
#Crushers
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Nov 13, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
Looks like great times! TFPU TG :-) It's on the list...
Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
  Nov 16, 2017 - 10:17am PT
Nice photos Todd but there's one missing! Sunset behind Telendos :)
COT

climber
Door Number 3
  Nov 16, 2017 - 10:58am PT
Credit: COT
Not quite "behind Telendos but close enough for this time of year
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Author's Reply  Nov 19, 2017 - 12:05pm PT
Now that winter is arriving, I pine for the warm summer days on Kalymnos;...swimming, climbing, and cruising around on my scooter in the warm sun.
maxn

Sport climber
grenoble
  Nov 21, 2017 - 01:19am PT
hey Todd, what route is that in the first photo?
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
  Nov 21, 2017 - 03:51am PT
So happy for you, Todd! Great photos from your personal P O V. :)
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