Crest Jewel 5.10a

 
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North Dome


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Jewels all Around (Royal Arches, Crest Jewel, Serenity Crack, Sons of Yesterday)
Sunday July 29, 2012 11:38pm
Our weekend began well with a great ascent of Half Dome (see trip Report from Nate)http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Regular-Northwest-Face-of-Half-Dome/t11583n.html. After a day of recovery, and more brownies we decided to test our skills on a little simul to face extravaganza on Sunday.

Neither Nate or I had really simul-climbed before, but we decided to simul-climb Royal Arches to get to the real prize, Creast Jewel. Neither of us had climbed either of the climbs before, and I had heard from another friend how run out Crest Jewel was. I was also a little worried about the July heat and sun for a fully exposed face climb. My right shoe was also developing some extra air-condition under the big toe (hole). The guy in the climbing shop said, 'ah, should be okay, go early', so we decided to give it a shot.

Our friend Dave was kind enough to drive us over in the pre-dawn calm. Smartly we scoped out the start the day before, so we walked up pre-racked, I slung half the rope over my shoulder and Nate started up (he's the chimney guy) on the first block.
Royal Arches, Chimney on P1
Royal Arches, Chimney on P1
Credit: holdenhh
He lead the first four pitches and turned the gear over at the begining of the 5.7 hand crack. All excited I started up, and regardless of what Nate says, I put in an acceptable amount of gear. A couple times I wasn't sure where to go, but between pin scars and chalk I made my way to the top of pitch 8 (just before the 10 face). This section was by far my favorite on Royal Arches. Great hand crack! What a joy!
Nate took the next block including the 10b rope swing. It seemed a little slippery to me, but alas, there is the rope swing just in case.
Nate in the little chimney just before the 10b traverse (swing)
Nate in the little chimney just before the 10b traverse (swing)
Credit: holdenhh
This section after the swing is a little discontinuous and he had to hunt around a bit to get to the next section. I took over lead again at the beginning of P14 and walked the slabs to the top.
Royal Arches, P16 traverse.  Easy, but run out.
Royal Arches, P16 traverse. Easy, but run out.
Credit: holdenhh
We made it to the top by 8:30a, much faster than anticipated (2.5hr), and had a leisurely breakfast (bars). We then started the hike over to Crest Jewel, first along the rim trail than trending up along the big slab. The start was actually a lot easier to find than I expected!


We were racked up (10 draws and three cams) and ready to go by 9:30a. Nate lead out the first 5.9 pitch onto the smooth face.
Crest Jewel, Nate heading out on P1
Crest Jewel, Nate heading out on P1
Credit: holdenhh
I followed up and we swapped leads the rest of the route. This truly is a sensational climb.
Crest Jewel, Nate following P2.  Theres a slick rust colored section n...
Crest Jewel, Nate following P2. Theres a slick rust colored section near the start.
Credit: holdenhh
There are just miles and miles of not-too-steep, just-sticky-enough, just bolded enough rock. It is very run out, but bolted in just the right spots. When you need a bolt it's there for you. Skip the gear.
Crest Jewel, P4.  Nothing like 1 bolt in 100 feet!  Okay, the climbing...
Crest Jewel, P4. Nothing like 1 bolt in 100 feet! Okay, the climbing is relatively easy.
Credit: holdenhh
Crest Jewel, looking down at the sea of rock.
Crest Jewel, looking down at the sea of rock.
Credit: holdenhh
The views are great all around the valley. Since we climbed Half Dome two days prior (and looked at North Dome for many hours), I couldn't resist a picture looking back across.
Looking across at Half Dome.
Looking across at Half Dome.
Credit: holdenhh
We noticed with one pitch to go that we could top out before noon, so we blitzed the last pitch in 4 minutes flat. We topped out at noon (11:58a actually). ...three hours ahead of my planned time.
Crest Jewel, Nate on top.  What's better than a PB&J!
Crest Jewel, Nate on top. What's better than a PB&J!
Credit: holdenhh
Crest Jewel, Holden on top.
Crest Jewel, Holden on top.
Credit: holdenhh
As suggested by the climbing shop guy we (Nate) brought a second 8mm line and rapped both routes. We were back at camp enjoying a beer by 3p.

Monday, Nate and I headed out to Serenity Crack and Sons of Yesterday with our other friend Megan (almost a valley local). Nate got all the glory and lead the entirety of both climbs. They're so good!
Serenity Crack, Nate just before the traverse on P2
Serenity Crack, Nate just before the traverse on P2
Credit: holdenhh
Serenity Crack, Megan cruising the finger crack in P3
Serenity Crack, Megan cruising the finger crack in P3
Credit: holdenhh
Sons of Yesterday, Nate on P3 (I think)
Sons of Yesterday, Nate on P3 (I think)
Credit: holdenhh
Nate and Holden somewhere on Sons...
Nate and Holden somewhere on Sons...
Credit: holdenhh
Tuesday we headed back to the usual paper pushing of the office. Hmm... what a good weekend, and now I've replaced the Half Done topo on my work bulletin board with The Nose. H3

  Trip Report Views: 1,367
holdenhh
About the Author
holdenhh is a trad climber from OC Area.

Comments
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 30, 2012 - 12:08am PT
booooooo

shaka!


good stone day
Corky

Trad climber
Newport Beach, CA
  Jul 30, 2012 - 12:09am PT
What can anyone in the climbing world say about your weekend with Nate, simply put, earthly magic at its best!
Simper Fi,
Al
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jul 30, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Wow killer weekend. You guys crushed it!
Nate101

Trad climber
Aliso Viejo, CA
  Jul 30, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Great climbing Holden! I still can't wipe the smile off my face. I'm looking forward to our next adventure!
Nate

edit: Al, you're coming with us next time!
David D.

Trad climber
California
  Jul 30, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
TFPU! Way to get after it.
10b4me

climber
  Jul 30, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
excellent tr
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jul 30, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Wow, that's quite an enviable weekend! Lots of mileage on great climbs.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 17, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
This is great, again.

Way to go guys!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 17, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Verry nice guys!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Aug 17, 2012 - 07:09pm PT
Get some done!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Aug 17, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
Super cool
scaredycat

Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
  Aug 18, 2012 - 12:08am PT
I still can't wipe the smile off my face.


And I didn't even climb the route. nice TR
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Aug 18, 2012 - 12:35am PT
Way to knock it out!
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North Dome - Crest Jewel 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Crest Jewel follows a series of unique but hard to see features.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on North Dome
North Dome - South Face 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
South Face, 5.7
North Dome
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The South Face stays in the corner
North Dome - Crest Jewel Direct 5.10d - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Crest Jewel Direct, 5.10d
North Dome
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