Trip Report
Indian Creek Noob

by Ed H
Wednesday April 23, 2014 8:05pm
I’d never been to Indian Creek, so when I heard that a couple of rope guns were organizing a trip, I jumped at the opportunity. I had visions of desert solitude, classic crack climbing, and basking in warm spring sunshine – so why is there a quarter inch of ice on my tent??
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Aaron on Incredible Hand Crack
Aaron on Incredible Hand Crack
Credit: Ed H
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Indian Creek is one of the best crack climbing anywhere. It’s located about an hour south of Moab, outside of Canyonlands National Park. Can't wait to return. Here’s what I learned on my first trip:

1. Get the David Bloom guide book before you go. It’s full of great photos to wet your appetite, and beta to help you plan your trip. http://www.amazon.com/Indian-Creek-Climbing-Camalot-Edition/dp/1892540800/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397970903&sr=8-1&keywords=indian+creek+climbingThe main crag map from the book can also be found online here.
http://www.summitpost.org/indian-creek-map/712947
2. Early April weather can be hit or miss. The week before we arrived it was sunny and warm. When we drove in on April 1, it was snowing in Salt Lake City, and there was still 3-4 inches of snow on the ground outside Moab! It warmed up every day, and we had a good Utah spring experience – sun, wind, rain, hail, and snow!
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Not exactly CA climbing weather...
Not exactly CA climbing weather...
Credit: Ed H
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That tall bottle beside the cooler might help...
That tall bottle beside the cooler might help...
Credit: Ed H
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Ahhhh - Utah - in your face beauty
Ahhhh - Utah - in your face beauty
Credit: Ed H
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3. Most climbs are in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, so bring a rope gun! We were lucky to have Aaron and Tim setting up our daily routine of classic desert top ropes. Thanks guys!!
4. Bring a big rack. Bring your friend’s rack. Go to the crag with other people that have big racks and their friend’s rack. One climb we did needed 8 #2’s and 4 #1’s to protect!
5. There are several campsites in the corridor, but only a few that are 2-wheel drive friendly. We stayed at Creek Pasture campground which was great – protected from the wind, good views to the East, pit toilets, picnic tables, fire rings, friendly neighbors, and no fees! Super bowl campground can also be accessed with 2-wheel drive. The sites there are a little more primitive, but have killer 360 deg views. Bridger Jack campground is closer to the climbing, but requires 4WD.
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Creek Pasture campground
Creek Pasture campground
Credit: Ed H
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6. There is no water, food, or cell service, so plan accordingly. There is an outpost about 8 miles away that has showers and some supplies. Load up in Moab.
7. There are some short moderate climbs at most of the crags – so it’s not all 5.10 crack climbing. It’s interesting to be at a crag and be so happy to see 5.9 or 5.10 minus in the topo!

On day one, Mark and I drove from Moab, set-up camp, and went over to check out South Six Shooter. It’s one of two prominent towers in the creek. With 4 wheel drive, you can drive to the base. With 2 wheel drive, you hike ~2.5 miles to the base, then 30-40 min huff up talus. We bailed with stormy skys and setting sun, but enjoyed a great hike in the desert and now have the approach dialed for next trip.
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On the way out to South Six Shooer
On the way out to South Six Shooer
Credit: Ed H
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North Six Shooter
North Six Shooter
Credit: Ed H
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I'm thinking we should bail...
I'm thinking we should bail...
Credit: Ed H
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Day two we joined the crew at Donnelly Canyon and Supercrack Buttress. To beat any crowds and get our choice of warm up climbs we arrived at 8 am. It was 37 deg in the parking lot (!), but warmed up quick after the huff up talus to the south facing wall. We ticked off - Chocolate Corner 5.9, Binou’s Crack 5.8, first pitch of Naked and Dead 5.8, Generic Crack 5.10-, Twin Crack 5.9, Gorilla 5.10, and Incredible Hand Crack 5.10
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Mark on Chocolate Corner 5.9+
Mark on Chocolate Corner 5.9+
Credit: Ed H
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On day three we went to Scarface Wall. It’s faces due south so a good choice for early April. It also has some of the best views in the region. Some of our climbs: Spam 5.9, Where's Carruthers? 5.10, Unnamed 5.10-, Wavy Gravy 5.10, Scarface 5.11.
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Tim on Scarface
Tim on Scarface
Credit: Ed H
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Wavy Gravy - love this route
Wavy Gravy - love this route
Credit: Ed H
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Norwegian team works the offwidth
Norwegian team works the offwidth
Credit: Ed H
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On Saturday we drove down to the remote Pistol Whipped wall to avoid any weekend crowds. Beautiful location, nice approach, and more 5 star crack climbing! We did Jolly Rancher 5.10, Short and Stupid 5.8+ and others.
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Aaron on Jolly Rancher
Aaron on Jolly Rancher
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Why jam when you can lie back? Love that jug!
Why jam when you can lie back? Love that jug!
Credit: Ed H
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Carrie sporting solid jamming technique
Carrie sporting solid jamming technique
Credit: Ed H
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View from Pistol Whipped
View from Pistol Whipped
Credit: Ed H
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Mike starting out with a welcome blue sky
Mike starting out with a welcome blue sky
Credit: Ed H
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Customary battered hand shot
Customary battered hand shot
Credit: Ed H
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On our way back to SLT, Mark and I checked out Potash Road – only 5 min from downtown Moab. The Wall Street area has lots of moderate climbs, and you can belay right from the car!
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Short approach at Wall street
Short approach at Wall street
Credit: Ed H
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See you in the desert!

Some Indian creek videos

A Desert Life
http://vimeo.com/34482694
Indian Creek: A Passion for Progression
http://vimeo.com/64190641
Pamela Pack Off width climber
http://youtu.be/batOAey3FsU
Alex Honnold sending in Indian Creek
http://youtu.be/M2dIZt4FCeE
Timmy O’Neill does Indian Creek Beat Box
http://youtu.be/xmbd_yXzP1Q



  Trip Report Views: 2,503
Ed H
About the Author
Ed H is a trad climber from Santa Rosa.

Comments
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Apr 23, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
Nice! You'll be back.


overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Apr 23, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
I have never been so I feel like I just read a decent primer. Thanks.
goatboy smellz

climber
Gulf Breeze
  Apr 23, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
It really is paradise, cool trip.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
right on!!!
Sanskara

climber
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
Sweet,

Got it, bring truck!
Jingy

climber
Random Nobody
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
Bad ass TR.

Thanks for all the photos...
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
Excellent photos! Thanks Ed.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Apr 23, 2014 - 09:36pm PT
mmmm, tasty lookin cracks. cheers.
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Apr 23, 2014 - 10:44pm PT
Having just returned, your TR is a pleasure. What a great area. And how depressing that Binou's crack is rated 5.8. I found it harder than that.

Thanks, now i won't have to post my own TR. :)
o-man

Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:22pm PT
Great trip report!
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
  Apr 23, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
Been wanting to head out and climb this with my friends out there. Looks great. TFPU.
jonnyrig

climber
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:22am PT
Very nice.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:27am PT
Awesome pics. Thanks!
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 24, 2014 - 01:37am PT
Awesome! I think your first picture is "incredible hand crack" but I might be wrong.
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