Trip Report
Gunnison 7/11 - A western Slope Getaway.
Friday July 29, 2011 12:23pm
So this started out as a - get out of the front range heat - trip with a purpose.

To finally say farewell to my Mom.

Farewell Mom, Be at Peace.
Farewell Mom, Be at Peace.
Credit: philo


The following morning, the day was gorgeous and filled with bird and river song.

Looking UP. Gold in the bank.
Looking UP. Gold in the bank.
Credit: philo

I finally had the opportunity to hang with some of the "next Generation".
Like Luke Mehall a real fine climber and super enjoyable GunnyCat.

LUKE! I Am - old enough to be - your FATHER.
LUKE! I Am - old enough to be - your FATHER.
Credit: philo

Luke's Climbing Zine

http://lukemehall.blogspot.com/2011/07/art-in-climbing-photo-essay.html


There were also Sierra & Colleen.

Sierra & Colleen on the Sun Deck at Harmel's
Sierra & Colleen on the Sun Deck at Harmel's
Credit: philo

And Shane

Shane. Come Back SHANE!!
Shane. Come Back SHANE!!
Credit: philo

Our relaxed objective was the classic routes on the Parking Lot wall called Zig Zag 5.9 & Whiskey Crack 5.10d

The 1st Buttress of Harmel's in Taylor Canyon. Whiskey is the arrow st...
The 1st Buttress of Harmel's in Taylor Canyon. Whiskey is the arrow straight v-slot in the center of the photo. Colleen is pulling the crux.
Credit: philo

Luke lead Zig Zag handily but I was gratified to hear him express how it always keeps you on your toes.
We all took a lap starting with Colleen.

Colleen on the classic 1st pitch of Zig Zag 5.9
Colleen on the classic 1st pitch of Zig Zag 5.9
Credit: philo

Then Luke took on the deceptively difficult and fairly intimidating 5.10d Whiskey Crack and did a beautiful job of it.

Luke starts the lead up the 5.10d crux 2nd pitch of Whiskey Crack
Luke starts the lead up the 5.10d crux 2nd pitch of Whiskey Crack
Credit: philo

By that time it was scorching in the sun so I suggested we go snack in the shade. All concured. It was nice to know a 70 meter rope makes it handily to the ground from the top of P2 of Whiskey.

Looking down at the Sun Deck in full bask. <br/>
My new wheels on the far ...
Looking down at the Sun Deck in full bask.
My new wheels on the far left.
Credit: philo

By that time Sierra the daring

Sierra watches over 'Her' domain ever vigilant for dirt bags and riff ...
Sierra watches over 'Her' domain ever vigilant for dirt bags and riff raff to invite up.
By the way most of those cars are mountain bikers or fisherfolk.
Credit: philo

Top Dog

Top Dog
Top Dog
Credit: philo

became a real Hot Dog!!!

A 'real' Hot Dog
A 'real' Hot Dog
Credit: philo

We took the wise example of Goldie Girl a real Cool Rock Hound.

A real COOL Rock Hound
A real COOL Rock Hound
Credit: philo

We bailed to the cool recesses of the Big Roof to chill and snack.
This spot is a fantastic hang and has been for thousands of years.

Big Roof Bivy
Big Roof Bivy
Credit: philo

Shane had to get to work so he jumped on the top rope. Using a 70 meter rope allowed us to link the first two pitches into one sustained and memorable pitch.

Shane on P1 of Whiskey
Shane on P1 of Whiskey
Credit: philo

Meanwhile at Base Camp the saner members of our party were chillin'.

Big Roof = Big Chill
Big Roof = Big Chill
Credit: philo

And snackin'.

Luke & Colleen, two of the "Next Generation" of Gunnison climbers chil...
Luke & Colleen, two of the "Next Generation" of Gunnison climbers chillin' under the Big Roof.
Credit: philo

Some of us were "chillin'" more than others. Bad dog. Bad dopey dog. Where's your manners. Didn't your mama teach you to share?

Bad Dog, Bad, bad Dog.
Bad Dog, Bad, bad Dog.
Credit: philo

Eventually the sizzle left the scorch and climbing commenced anew.

Colleen works up the 1st pitch of Whiskey.
Colleen works up the 1st pitch of Whiskey.
Credit: philo
Colleen entering the fray on P1 of Whiskey
Colleen entering the fray on P1 of Whiskey
Credit: philo
Colleen turns the roof with style
Colleen turns the roof with style
Credit: philo
Colleen takes a shot of Whiskey P2
Colleen takes a shot of Whiskey P2
Credit: philo
Colleen cruxin' on Whiskey
Colleen cruxin' on Whiskey
Credit: philo

It really was nice to climb these stellar lines without remembering every hold. It was also nice to have the rope overhead!!

Me at the crux of Whiskey
Me at the crux of Whiskey
Credit: philo


  Trip Report Views: 2,031
philo
About the Author
philo is a trad wall climber, one time Eldo Prancer and has been Black Canyon Wannabe hardman from somewhere halfway over the rainbow.

Comments
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J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jul 29, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
In the interest of full disclosure: Taylor is the biggest pile of choss this side of Florida. The grades are soft, you are climbing downstream of an aging nuclear power plant and just a few feet above a 6 lane interstate highway (I-0). Save your gas and bike to your nearest climbing gym. Oh yeah, did I mention the rapid pack of feral Rottweilers?



donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 29, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Nice Philo, come a little further West next time and let me show you around or you could go even further West and have stinkeye, your buddy, give you a tour.

edit: J Werlin saying the grades are soft is no way to keep people away- quite the contrary.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Jul 29, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
Thanks Jim. Oh and Jim, Werlin was tongue and cheeking it the cheeky bastard.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 29, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
I know he was tongue in cheek and funny, a different approach would have been "the ratings make the Black look like a walk in the park and they have every bit as much poison ivy.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Jul 29, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
But Jim that would be the truth. We can't have that. snicker.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Jul 29, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
Bad dog.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jul 29, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
That looks pretty cool. How big is the crag? Does it get crowded?
Is it terrifying for "foreigners" visiting for the first time?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 29, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
it AINT the valley ! ;-D (you know you had that coming!)


Nice TR!
Boymeetsrock

Trad climber
the east
  Jul 29, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
I miss Taylor Canyon a LOT. (for the suffering and PI and all that of course.)

Zig-Zag was my first nine and still a favorite climb.

Thanks for the pics.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Jul 29, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
Boymeetsrock, don't forget to mention the RAPID "packs of feral Rotweillers".
Owoooooooooo!!
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Jul 29, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
looks great.

the rotweilers will slow down as they get older
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Jul 29, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
Paging YDPL8S...



Leo Malloy has produced an excellent and comprehensive guide to the Gunnison area rock climbing. It is available through Sharp End Publishing.
http://www.sharpendbooks.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?p_id=00080
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jul 29, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
You're right Jim. Maybe I'm more old school than I realize. West side=best side.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 29, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
I think your dog has a drug habit.

hahaha
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 29, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
TOP DOG!! TOP NOTCH!!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 29, 2011 - 08:59pm PT

how come there weren't any photos of philo????
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Jul 29, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
SteveDub, for the most part I was snapping pics but I am in the very last pic at the crux of Whiskey.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 29, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
Philo: Thanks for the great report.

At City of Rocks: I am enjoying hanging out with the youngsters------who are amazed to see me still climbing------and want to help me.


Nice kids!

I'm starting to enjoy being an "old climbing fart.'
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Jul 30, 2011 - 11:05am PT
Philo, great TR! Made me very homesick. I'm impressed with you pullin Whiskey at your advanced age! Did you get down further right to your old prancing grounds around Left Hand, Question, and Christine's? (I'd love to jump on Dunn's again).

I have a copy of Leo's book, with the Big Dick's (Dickerson's) references to my follies earmarked.

I can truly say, I wish I was your dog!

Moss
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jul 30, 2011 - 11:41am PT
Chill dog.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Jul 31, 2011 - 10:22am PT
MossMan, Thanks a bunch for the props. Oh yeah I did wander around my old "office" reminiscing and scaring myself. I surprised myself on Whiskey. Didn't remember a single hold. Even though it was ill advised what with a ruptured elbow bursa sac, wobbly Elvis leg and imminent spinal surgery I still climbed without embarrassing myself around the young guns.
But at least I have a bench mark to shoot for after they reem my spine.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 31, 2011 - 10:40am PT

Lukin' good, Philo--hey, you goin' to Lucillefest????
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Aug 1, 2011 - 09:09am PT
Credit: philo

If you look at the cloud shaped like a heart or a bird it is the same shape as my Mom's ashes as they left my hands the evening before. Then a great up draft from the Black whirled them up 1000' and away. It was stunning.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Aug 1, 2011 - 09:22am PT
Nice.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Aug 1, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Phil, that is very cool, a great place to "release" your mom.

Pictures of Whiskey Crack from the bottom never seem to convey the thin nature of that bottoming V-slot. This picture, courtesy of Morkel and MP.com, taken from the top, shows better how deceiving that thing is when looking from the bottom.

Whiskey Crack - Taylor Canyon - Gunnison - 5.10d
Whiskey Crack - Taylor Canyon - Gunnison - 5.10d
Credit: Morkel and mp.com
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2011 - 09:42am PT
The new rig was fantastic. It averaged 18mpg on the way there and 20mpg on the way back. Thats twice what my Electricians van got. Whodaathunk that recycling a used Suburban would reduce my carbon footprint. And, increase comfort and passenger capacity at the same time.

Credit: philo


Goldie Girl had a great time. She loves Taylor Canyon. She also really digs the new rig. But for some reason she had a little cotton mouth and the munchies.

Credit: philo


Hope you all had phun going for a little ride with us. CHEERS!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Aug 6, 2011 - 10:33am PT
A couple more shots looking up past the big roof and up the Parking lot wall.

Whiskey Crack is the straight shot V groove in the middle of the pic. ...
Whiskey Crack is the straight shot V groove in the middle of the pic. Oh Mama Mama goes through the roof at the prominent X.
Credit: philo


Me stemming for all I was worth at the crux of Whiskey Crack.
Me stemming for all I was worth at the crux of Whiskey Crack.
Credit: philo
Hey Eeyonkee, you can clearly see the OW I suggested to you running diagonally from bottom right to left through the length of the Big Roof.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Aug 5, 2011 - 10:26am PT
I've never understood this fascination with having fun while rock climbing.
I'm glad it works for some of you, especially Philo. He seems to deserve a good time or two.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Author's Reply  Aug 5, 2011 - 10:51am PT
Thank you Reilly I really appreciate that. Back last century when I was a real climber I had my fair share of suffer-fests. Now that I am a shell of a has-been PHUN is the name of the game.
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