Trip Report
Gunnison 7/11 - A western Slope Getaway.
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Friday July 29, 2011 12:23pm
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So this started out as a - get out of the front range heat - trip with a purpose.
To finally say farewell to my Mom.
The following morning, the day was gorgeous and filled with bird and river song.
I finally had the opportunity to hang with some of the "next Generation".
Like Luke Mehall a real fine climber and super enjoyable GunnyCat.
Luke's Climbing Zine
http://lukemehall.blogspot.com/2011/07/art-in-climbing-photo-essay.html
There were also Sierra & Colleen.
And Shane
Our relaxed objective was the classic routes on the Parking Lot wall called Zig Zag 5.9 & Whiskey Crack 5.10d
Luke lead Zig Zag handily but I was gratified to hear him express how it always keeps you on your toes.
We all took a lap starting with Colleen.
Then Luke took on the deceptively difficult and fairly intimidating 5.10d Whiskey Crack and did a beautiful job of it.
By that time it was scorching in the sun so I suggested we go snack in the shade. All concured. It was nice to know a 70 meter rope makes it handily to the ground from the top of P2 of Whiskey.
By that time Sierra the daring
Top Dog
became a real Hot Dog!!!
We took the wise example of Goldie Girl a real Cool Rock Hound.
We bailed to the cool recesses of the Big Roof to chill and snack.
This spot is a fantastic hang and has been for thousands of years.
Shane had to get to work so he jumped on the top rope. Using a 70 meter rope allowed us to link the first two pitches into one sustained and memorable pitch.
Meanwhile at Base Camp the saner members of our party were chillin'.
And snackin'.
Some of us were "chillin'" more than others. Bad dog. Bad dopey dog. Where's your manners. Didn't your mama teach you to share?
Eventually the sizzle left the scorch and climbing commenced anew.
It really was nice to climb these stellar lines without remembering every hold. It was also nice to have the rope overhead!!
philo
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About the Author philo is a trad wall climber, one time Eldo Prancer and has been Black Canyon Wannabe hardman from somewhere halfway over the rainbow. |
Comments
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
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In the interest of full disclosure: Taylor is the biggest pile of choss this side of Florida. The grades are soft, you are climbing downstream of an aging nuclear power plant and just a few feet above a 6 lane interstate highway (I-0). Save your gas and bike to your nearest climbing gym. Oh yeah, did I mention the rapid pack of feral Rottweilers?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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Nice Philo, come a little further West next time and let me show you around or you could go even further West and have stinkeye, your buddy, give you a tour.
edit: J Werlin saying the grades are soft is no way to keep people away- quite the contrary.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
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Thanks Jim. Oh and Jim, Werlin was tongue and cheeking it the cheeky bastard.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 29, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
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I know he was tongue in cheek and funny, a different approach would have been "the ratings make the Black look like a walk in the park and they have every bit as much poison ivy.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
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But Jim that would be the truth. We can't have that. snicker.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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Bad dog.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
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That looks pretty cool. How big is the crag? Does it get crowded?
Is it terrifying for "foreigners" visiting for the first time?
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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it AINT the valley ! ;-D (you know you had that coming!)
Nice TR!
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Boymeetsrock
Trad climber
the east
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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I miss Taylor Canyon a LOT. (for the suffering and PI and all that of course.)
Zig-Zag was my first nine and still a favorite climb.
Thanks for the pics.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Jul 29, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
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Boymeetsrock, don't forget to mention the RAPID "packs of feral Rotweillers".
Owoooooooooo!!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 29, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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looks great.
the rotweilers will slow down as they get older
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
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You're right Jim. Maybe I'm more old school than I realize. West side=best side.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:37pm PT
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I think your dog has a drug habit.
hahaha
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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TOP DOG!! TOP NOTCH!!!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 29, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
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how come there weren't any photos of philo????
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
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SteveDub, for the most part I was snapping pics but I am in the very last pic at the crux of Whiskey.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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Philo: Thanks for the great report.
At City of Rocks: I am enjoying hanging out with the youngsters------who are amazed to see me still climbing------and want to help me.
Nice kids!
I'm starting to enjoy being an "old climbing fart.'
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:05am PT
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Philo, great TR! Made me very homesick. I'm impressed with you pullin Whiskey at your advanced age! Did you get down further right to your old prancing grounds around Left Hand, Question, and Christine's? (I'd love to jump on Dunn's again).
I have a copy of Leo's book, with the Big Dick's (Dickerson's) references to my follies earmarked.
I can truly say, I wish I was your dog!
Moss
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jul 30, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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Chill dog.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Jul 31, 2011 - 10:22am PT
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MossMan, Thanks a bunch for the props. Oh yeah I did wander around my old "office" reminiscing and scaring myself. I surprised myself on Whiskey. Didn't remember a single hold. Even though it was ill advised what with a ruptured elbow bursa sac, wobbly Elvis leg and imminent spinal surgery I still climbed without embarrassing myself around the young guns.
But at least I have a bench mark to shoot for after they reem my spine.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 31, 2011 - 10:40am PT
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Lukin' good, Philo--hey, you goin' to Lucillefest????
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Aug 1, 2011 - 09:09am PT
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If you look at the cloud shaped like a heart or a bird it is the same shape as my Mom's ashes as they left my hands the evening before. Then a great up draft from the Black whirled them up 1000' and away. It was stunning.
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Nice.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Phil, that is very cool, a great place to "release" your mom.
Pictures of Whiskey Crack from the bottom never seem to convey the thin nature of that bottoming V-slot. This picture, courtesy of Morkel and MP.com, taken from the top, shows better how deceiving that thing is when looking from the bottom.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Aug 2, 2011 - 09:42am PT
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The new rig was fantastic. It averaged 18mpg on the way there and 20mpg on the way back. Thats twice what my Electricians van got. Whodaathunk that recycling a used Suburban would reduce my carbon footprint. And, increase comfort and passenger capacity at the same time.
Goldie Girl had a great time. She loves Taylor Canyon. She also really digs the new rig. But for some reason she had a little cotton mouth and the munchies.
Hope you all had phun going for a little ride with us. CHEERS!
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Aug 6, 2011 - 10:33am PT
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A couple more shots looking up past the big roof and up the Parking lot wall.
Hey Eeyonkee, you can clearly see the OW I suggested to you running diagonally from bottom right to left through the length of the Big Roof.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I've never understood this fascination with having fun while rock climbing.
I'm glad it works for some of you, especially Philo. He seems to deserve a good time or two.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Author's Reply
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Aug 5, 2011 - 10:51am PT
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Thank you Reilly I really appreciate that. Back last century when I was a real climber I had my fair share of suffer-fests. Now that I am a shell of a has-been PHUN is the name of the game.
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