Trip Report
Gettin' a lil' Shuteye
Friday August 16, 2013 12:35am
Credit: tuolumne_tradster

Slater's TR
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Afternoon-Nap-Shuteye-Ridge/t11967n.html
earlier this summer inspired us to check out Shuteye Ridge. Frank Baker and I spent the weekend in the Big Sleep Dome area and did Afternoon Nap 5.7(Sat Aug 8, 2013). Highly recommend this fun and easy route on high quality granite that provides a variety of climbing from friction, face, knobs, and chicken heads to runnels, lie backs, and 2 short roofs. Had the whole place to ourselves.

Afternoon Nap takes the runnel above the 2 right slanting arches above the 2nd tree from the left.


Looking down from the top of p1 Afternoon Nap


Looking down at frank from the top of p4 Afternoon Nap


Starting up p5 Afternoon Nap


Frank at the hanging belay p4 Afternoon Nap


Couldn't resist tying off this chicken head


Did a little recon of Crocodile Dome on Sunday in search of future adventures.


Many fine steep, bolted face routes on Crocodile


Willy Nilly 2 pitch, 5.8 is on the list...stay tuned.


Check it out.





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tuolumne_tradster
About the Author
tuolumne_tradster is an aging trad climber from the leading edge of the North American Plate

Comments
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Bad Climber

climber
  Aug 16, 2013 - 09:04am PT
Looks like huge fun, Tradster. Thanks for posting. I'm not doing much climbing this year, but Shuteye is on the list for next season!

BAd
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Aug 16, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Right on Vic! Nice to see you had a great time up there. Little crowded, huh?

Justin
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Aug 16, 2013 - 11:57am PT
Sweet!
TFPU
Tad
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Aug 16, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
Justin: thanks for the beta and encouragement to check out Shuteye. This is the 1st time I've ever spent a weekend of climbing in California, even in the high Sierras, without running into other people. Not that I'm anti-social but its nice to get away from the crowds every once and awhile.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Aug 16, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
No problem, anytime. Thanks for the tr.
bpope

climber
Sunnyvale, CA
  Aug 16, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
That corner looks very, very fun.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Aug 16, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Nice! I'm pretty sure that boulder you're being eaten alive in is the inspiration for the name, Crocodile Rock. Beautiful granite on that face. Nice TR.


-JR


And for what it's worth on Big Sleep I really like Moonlight Madness. Climb it.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Aug 16, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
OK Jeremy...it's on the list.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Aug 17, 2013 - 12:09am PT
Glad you and Frank had a good time.
Shuteye is a lot of fun, so many good routes of all kinds.
Willy Nilly is really cool, don't forget to traverse out of the dihedral and up the thin crack though! and bring a couple big pieces for the top. This route isn't as straight forward as it look from the bottom!
You gotta hit the Ross bros Eagle's Nest too across the ridge from Croc. Super climbing there!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 17, 2013 - 02:20am PT
Quit gloating, y'all. The last photo is too cruel, and Slater's comments make it even better/worse. I'ld be a little nervous heading up that.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Aug 17, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Have cams. Will sew.
sheepdog

Trad climber
just over the hill
  Aug 17, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Looks excellent TT... That photo of Willy Nilly makes me want to get in the car now!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 17, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
This TR put me to sl
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 17, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
Not really. All the years I've wasted not climbing I could have been going there? And it's so close, too.
Sh#t.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 17, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
MORE!!!
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Aug 18, 2013 - 12:03am PT
OK here are a couple more photos of Afternoon Nap. The crux is getting over the right slanting arch just left of center. Then it goes up to the belly button at the base of the runnel that splits the upper half of the face.


Here's what the runnel face near the top looks like. Knobs, chicken heads, plates, etc everywhere. This is a common and distinctive feature of Shuteye Ridge granite texture. Similar to the money pitch on Hobbit Book.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 19, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Cool, thanks!!!!!
FBaker

Trad climber
Concord, Ca
  Sep 12, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Vic, Great trip report. Sure had a good time!
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Oct 13, 2013 - 12:24am PT
We went back to Shuteye last weekend to do Moonlight Madness and Willy Nilly. Shuteye is a great alternative to Yosemite during the Govt shutdown.

Frank Baker at camp after a day of climbing on Big Sleep Dome.


Moonlight Madness just above the friction move crux getting to the easy roof. After that runnels & chicken heads abound.


Here's the roof from below...photo Frank Baker


Me, Frank, Sean & Vito on the summit of Big Sleep


John leading Willy Nilly Crocodile Dome. This 5.8 pitch is sustained and harder than any pitch on Moonlight Madness.
RyanD

climber
  Oct 12, 2013 - 03:22am PT
Wow, that's gotta be some of the most beautiful rock i have ever seen. Really cool, thanks!
Those steep face climbs look like an incredible good time.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Oct 12, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
How bad is the last bit of 4x4 road to get there?
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  Oct 12, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Not bad at all. I made it there in my Toyota van. There are a couple of deep ruts you have to straddle.
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
  Oct 12, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Not bad, you can make it with 2wd and OK clearance to the camping area. Then just walk from there to the end of the road (less than 1/4 mile). Or drive it with same car no problem- maybe some bushes might scrape your sides.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 28, 2015 - 10:26pm PT
Sunday of Memorial Day weekend was clear. I climbed Crossing the Milky Way 5.8 on Milky Way wall with Chris Schroeder. Another Shuteye quality route on excellent rock. The Knob Gobbler pitch was a blast. Photos courtesy Chris Schroeder.

p2 dihedral


p3


start of p4 Knob Gobbler
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 28, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
Milky Way wall is out there a little ways, eh?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  May 28, 2015 - 11:27pm PT
Another Shuteye quality route on excellent rock.

Is there any rock there that isn't excellent?? ;)

I love it there. Thanks for the pics
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 29, 2015 - 06:26am PT
Man, that place looks great! Love the knobs and texture, and not having too many people around ranks high in my book. Gotta get off my ass and get Patty up there soon.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 29, 2015 - 08:46am PT
Trail head to Milky Way wall is on 7S02H ~ 1 mi from Big Sleep camp. Approach is well marked with cairns and took ~ 1 hr but I'm an old man. Descent was also well marked and took ~ 1.5 hrs back to the car but like I said I'm an old man and my knees are starting to feel the descents. We had the place to ourselves.

the occasional quartz vein cairn...

this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  May 29, 2015 - 09:14am PT
Awesome Vic, glad you finally made it out there. Any problems with bees? I've been attacked a few time in that area. Kinda early, but so dry, I bet they are already out.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  May 29, 2015 - 09:18am PT
Thanks for the TR. Makes me wish I were there now.

John
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Author's Reply  May 29, 2015 - 09:27am PT
Justin: did not encounter bees but did come across a dead tree covered by ant colony. Be careful not to place your hand on ant covered dead trees for they can transfer to your hand in large numbers quickly.

gnarlydog

Mountain climber
Concord,Ca
  Jun 3, 2015 - 07:06am PT
That was a fun trip Vic. We should head out there again soon.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jun 3, 2015 - 08:06am PT
I missed this TR first time around. Nice to see. Thanks!
Relax, Guy

Social climber
Not Burchey, LOL
  Jun 8, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
I gusta the hell out of this. That rock looks so good. Thanks for posting!
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