Trip Report
Full Quiver - Three Arrows, Lone Pine Peak III 5.9 R
Thursday January 5, 2012 9:59pm
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

The Line
The Line
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

We just threw our haul bag off the first tower...


Seven pitches of wide stemming, large dihedrals, and run-out arêtes have lead us to this point. Changing our original plan of two days/one night on the wall, into a single push, we were forced to use the empty shell of a giant, orange haul bag.

Boots, gloves, hand drill and all nonessential crap were jettisoned.

The bag soared!

Two more towers to climb.

Pitch Eight was a down climb to a very sharp ridge. A short haul with our small bag of pitons and water jug almost sent me flying off the Eastside.
“Amy, when I say ‘Let Go’ I mean lower it out slowly… My bad!”

We are now in the notch underneath two giant headstones; guardians of the second tower. A bit of wandering around in the wrong direction, we decide the cat walk highway just makes sense.

Amy bags the Second Tower.

A giant, knobby boulder must be climbed, and then down climbed on the backside to a very, very rotten wall. A quick summit of Tower 2 ½…also very rotten.

Amy bags another.

She then takes me across another rotten, sharp ridge to a down climb boulder problem which I can only describe as pure shit!

“The hand and foot holds are pulsing and crumbling…” I yell.

I’m thinking to myself, “Amy was top-roped for this”. Our only option was to throw the rope around the rotten horn on the arête of the boulder and hope the holds don’t blow off. They’re still pulsing.

Back on solid ground. Some ridge climbing and quick down climbing around and through a hole takes us to the notch of the third tower. A huge pine tree marks the start of the next pitch. A splitter crack rises above the pine, a dead end. I turn around the arête and with a coil of rope in hand cat jump to the slab below. We climbed a broken dike, the gateway to the Death Zone! Guillotine flakes and suspended blocks must be used, oh so gently.

Through a cat claw shrub to some summit blocks… Amy bags the Third and final Tower.

A rappel off a pine tree drops us perfectly into the descent gully.
Fourteen very different pitches of climbing made up this adventure. The sun is still shining, but now, the real work…descending the snow in climbing shoes to find our bag!
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

HEADSTONES
HEADSTONES
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

PITCH SIX
PITCH SIX
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser

LOOKING FROM FINAL SUMMIT
LOOKING FROM FINAL SUMMIT
Credit: Myles Moser

Credit: Myles Moser














  Trip Report Views: 3,843
Myles Moser
About the Author
Myles Moser is a climber from Lone Pine, Ca.

Comments
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 5, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
cool
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
  Jan 5, 2012 - 10:08pm PT
Way to keep'm coming. Ya got pictures on route? Your topos are getting better. Peace out, man.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 5, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
Thanks Krahmes... More pictures coming, and the Story.
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
  Jan 5, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
Rad! Looking forward to a high res version of that topo.
Jason
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Jan 5, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
Those are rather large packs.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 5, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
only one large pack
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
  Jan 6, 2012 - 01:58am PT
Beautiful line.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 6, 2012 - 10:15am PT
Amy is tough when it comes to comfort. she wants a comb and wet wipes, as for what was in the bag I dunno.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 6, 2012 - 04:38pm PT
Nice!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 6, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
EGGSALAD!!
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
  Jan 6, 2012 - 05:14pm PT
Myles -

What's with the Harding look?? Bless Amy's soul for tolerance! ;)

Nice work Bro!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 6, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
The shutter or lens cover is busted... so we ripped it off, now its even worse.

What does egg salad mean?
JMC

climber
the land of milk and honey
  Jan 6, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
Bruce has a cold. Or cleft palate. He is trying to say "excellent", but can't seem to make it...
Sweet stuff, love the "pulsing holds". Any signs of former travel? Isn't there a Grandstaff route up in that part of the peak?
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 6, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
Grandstaff and Becky, only on the third tower. Definitely no signs of travel along the ridge. It was high and wild!14 pitches... Wahoo!!!

I'll eat egg salad... thanks:)
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 6, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
Three Arrows 5.9 A2, April 1976, Randy Grandstaff, Hooman Aprin and Fred Beckey.

I forgot Hooman Aprin.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Jan 6, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
Nice work Myles!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 6, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
Couldn't of done without Amy. How you been spider?
Go