Trip Report
Fresno - Where Dreams Die (Shuteye Ridge TR)
Monday October 21, 2013 1:27am
My nephew Coby and I left the Central Coast at 6pm Friday Oct. 18th, gunning for REI and then Shuteye Ridge to camp out and climb.
The truck busted down at 8pm somewhere east of Lemore on Hwy 41.
A quick call to AAA.
Sat in a field and drank beer under a full moon.
A tow truck sent from Selma. Thanks Brian!
Dropped off in downtown Fresno by 11pm. Crashed at the Holiday Inn.
Hiked through Fresno in the morning to Pro Auto.
Ate breakfast on the curb at 8am.
Read magazines and goofed off for 4 hours.
Truck fixed (alternator!) at 12:15pm.
Jammed up to Shuteye... never say die!
Started up Big Sleep at 2:30pm.
1,000 feet later, 5 pitches in 1 hr. 52 minutes, we started to rap back down.
Back at the car by 6pm.
Jammed to REI at 8pm. Got my Flashpack!
Off to Carl's Jr. and back home by
It wasn't the trip we planned, and we did far less climbing than originally planned, but all things considered, it was a pretty memorable trip!
When life gives you lemons, go climbing.

Breakfast on the curb...
Credit: Slater

urban cragger...
Credit: Slater

Afternoon Nap 5.7, pitch one
Credit: Slater

pitch two...
Credit: Slater

pitch three...
Credit: Slater

pitch four... about 800' up the dome.
Credit: Slater

pitch five...
Credit: Slater
Credit: Slater

Bomber pro... yer gonna die!
Shuteye Sling
Shuteye Sling
Credit: Slater

Vertical Dawn...
Vertical Dawn 5.10b is the sunlit arete.
Vertical Dawn 5.10b is the sunlit arete.
Credit: Slater
Vertical Dawn... not from this weekend!
Credit: Slater

Walk out...
Credit: Slater

Credit: Slater

Field of dreams...
Credit: Slater

No wasps... probably 'cause Justin and Jeremy weren't there to piss them off.
72 degrees, no wind, no people, no SHUTDOWN!

Climb on,

Tom Slater

  Trip Report Views: 1,689
About the Author
Slater is a trad climber from Central Coast and co-author of "California Road Trip - Climber's Guide to Northern California" and author of "Southern California Rock Climbing" and "California Central Coast Climbs: San Luis Obispo".

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Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 21, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Temps must have been about perfect.

gah, wish I had gone up this weekend.

Boulder climber
  Oct 21, 2013 - 01:43am PT
"Ours is not to reason why. Ours is but to do and die."

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Oct 21, 2013 - 01:53am PT
Was the chain-link-fence/stucco-wall lay-back an FA?

It looks so sweet I want to drive up there to send this beast.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 21, 2013 - 04:21am PT
Fresno - Where Dreams Die

Ha! I almost moved to Fresno in 2001 - glad I didn't!

Good to see that you got to rope up afterall.

IPA is my favorite.

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Oct 21, 2013 - 04:41am PT

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Oct 21, 2013 - 05:12am PT
That's some serious climbing mileage when you throw in car towing and repair in the same 24 hours.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 21, 2013 - 06:57am PT
Waiting for micro nuts reply. ;)
Nice TR!!!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Oct 21, 2013 - 08:30am PT

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 21, 2013 - 11:00am PT
well done lads!!

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 21, 2013 - 11:24am PT
"Dropped off in downtown Fresno at 11pm."
Man you can't start off a Trip Report with a more ominous sentence.

Glad you boys fought the urban inertia and got up there on the big open stone! Climbing barbwire fences and "drinking beers in a field"....two things Fresno is known for.
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
  Oct 21, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Way to charge it boyz! :)

Conditions were absolutely stunning this weekend, sun or shade was primo at all elevations. Glad you suffered through. Also didn't see a soul all weekend, as usual.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 21, 2013 - 03:49pm PT
"Dropped off in downtown Fresno at 11pm."
Man you can't start off a Trip Report with a more ominous sentence.

LOL! Next time you're stuck, give me a call (559.260.2127).

I was stuck in town, and missed climbing anywhere, including the Faceoff, but always happy to help climbers in distress.

Thanks for the TR. Your pictures are as close as I've come to a climb this weekend.

Paul Martzen

Trad climber
  Oct 21, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Pro Auto?! Thought that wall & fence looked familiar. Good shop and the owner, Cary, is a climber. He is also a Scoutmaster and I think that keeps him pretty busy.

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Oct 21, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
TFPU Slater. Looks like a great adventure for your nephew Coby. We were there 2 weeks before on Moonlight Madness and had a fabulous time.
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