Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Freeblast 11b or C2
Saturday December 22, 2012 12:43pm
Last May Rich and I were working our way through Road to the Nose. We climbed Snake Dike Easily, and had fun fun on Serenity Crack. So we bought aiders and decided to get after it. We played around on some aid for half a day and planned my first trip to El Cap to climb Freeblast.

Credit: LuckyJack

I'm not sure why Chris Mac puts Freeblast at the top of the free climbing section, but I definitely think it belongs at the bottom of a section. Unless you climb 11b, which I probably will never do, it will be mixed free and aid. I'm sure that is great practice for going fast on the Nose, since you need to get out of the aiders as often as possible, but for beginning aid climbers, it was a disaster.

The route is very busy. We were the second ones on it at 7am, and the parties behind us were dismayed to see me pull out aiders and jug the 10c second pitch. I was under the impression that many people don't climb 10c with a rather heavy pack on, and that aiders were commonplace on the Captain, but the party behind us rode me all morning for aiding the only route on El Cap with "Free" in its name.

After a few hours, I couldn't take the stress of watching parties arrive at the base, watch us struggle for half an hour and leave. We just weren't prepared either mentally or physically for the climb. Later in the summer, we checked East Buttress of El Cap off our list, and repeated Serenity Crack clean (We confess to French Freeing the crux the first time). We're planning South Face of Washington Column in a few weeks, when our schedules and weather align.



Lessons Learned:
1. Be Tough. If you got up at five while other climbers were sleeping, you deserve your spot on the rock. If they are fast enough, let them pass, otherwise don't let them rain on your parade. They'll go home writing "1. Wake up earlier."

2. Be prepared. If you read the How to Big Wall project on this site, it recommends endless hours of aid practice, I mean hundreds of hours practicing aid. We had like five hours practicing aid when we got on the climb. That would have been fine if we climbed 11a free, but we don't. Rich climbs 10c and I climb 10a, and ratings on the Captain run hard.

3. Plan properly. I would put Freeblast at the bottom of the free climbing section in Road to the Nose, or even in a "mini big wall" section of its own. We considered it much more difficult than East Buttress. While getting up early earns you your spot on the rock, clogging up the busiest route on the best rock in the world sucks for everyone.

4. Plan your Revenge! Keep getting after it.

  Trip Report Views: 4,865
LuckyJack
About the Author
LuckyJack is a trad climber from Novato, CA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
WBraun

climber
  Dec 22, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
You didn't learn anything yet.

So ....

Stay off heavily traveled popular routes you're not ready for yet.

You obviously were not .....

On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
  Dec 22, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
I'm sure glad it wasn't me behind you.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 22, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Not to be a dick, but is this report about you guys straight up aiding freeblast and bailing after a few pitches? Why not putting one out about climbing EB of El Cap or Snake Dike?

Suggestion: this route gets sun in winter. If you are not sure about your speed go there on a sunny winter weekend and do it the way you want. Won't be anyone behind you. This route is not great for straight up aid climbing, you must be able to pull through on gear thru the cruxes without getting the aiders out if you want to finish it in a day. And follow at least 5.10s. Good luck next time.

PS: Ratings on that route do not run that hard. 1st pitch is probably the easiest 10c in the valley.
LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 22, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Why say we didn't learn anything when I listed lack of preparation as one of our primary issues? We climbed Serenity Crack and East Buttress, so it's not like we're complete noobs. We didn't realize how busy the climb was. It was listed right along with others that we were perfectly prepared for.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 22, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
If you guys did serenity/sons link up in a day (without taking a whole day) without problems you should be able to climb freeblast and pull through on 11 cruxes.

Your video doesn't work!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Dec 22, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
From MP

Get in line
Get in line
Credit: Steve L



The first pitch is one of the easiest 10s period in the valley.



LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
We didn't straight up aid it, and yes we bailed after 3 pitches, realizing it was above our level and making room on the route for others. I dont think all TRs need to be glamorous, we learn more from our failures than our successes. The second pitch is 10c, which my partner led free, but I cleaned on ascenders.
I pur this one up, because I had more footage of it than others, and because other people hadn't put up many TRs of the route.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:11pm PT
It's photos like that one above that make me reluctant and hesitant to go back to the Valley. I did The Freeblast three times and never so much as saw another party on it. WTF is that guy doing aiding the 10b pitch? Isn't that like the first pitch?! Damn.
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
I always learned more from successes, stuff like "that was a crazy plan, I can't believe it actually worked".

I think you are learning the wrong lessons.

The biggest lesson is that 11b climbers are a dime a dozen, and you can be one of them. Don't nay-say yourself and your future climbing ability.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
The second pitch is 10c, which my partner led free

you guys must have done the first short 5.6 part as an independent pitch and built a belay at the base of 10c? Most people do not put pro in the 5.6 section than do the 10c part, at times link it to the 5.8 (2nd) pitch too.

It is good to post failures sometimes I guess, so people tell you how unprepared you are and you go back to training harder, get hungrier, and get back stronger! Hope you guys do that and crush on your next attempt!

Don't nay-say yourself and your future climbing ability.

great suggestion there
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
Best TR ever.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
My memory from 25 years ago is that freeblast was a moderate 5.10. The grades in the valley are harder than most places. I've done it several times with a 100lb haulbag in tow. I forget the climbing but I do remember the hauling. It's the easiest way up el Cap, free blast to the upper pitches of the nose (called triple direct).
WBraun

climber
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
It's the easiest way up el Cap

Then why did you bring a rope?

The trail is the easiest ......
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
Thats funny bvb, I climb in the Valley all the time and haven't waited in line in years.

The road to the Nose is a wide path (literally).
Don't get boxed in by certain objectives. The Valley is huge and theirs tons of sh#t that will get you in good shape for it. Theirs at least 10 routes right near by that going up a half dozen pitches and bailing will do more for you than freeblast ever will. And nobodies ever on them. Go as slow as you'd like.

The freeblast is just a hurdle before you get to the real climbing, or a nice day in the sun depending on your perspective at the time.
LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 22, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
The 10c section is listed as the second pitch on the topo, so I called it the second pitch. My partner actually made it to the belay station under the roof in one long pitch. I had to simul the easy start (5.6?) to get him there on a 60m.
LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 22, 2012 - 03:10pm PT
I think I just fixed the video, thanks Vitality for the tip, I didn't realize it wasn't up.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
  Dec 22, 2012 - 03:54pm PT
Thanks for the TR great vid to bring back memories.
Sounds like you are open to feed back.
A friend and I climbed that route years ago. 10c was our max. Minimal aid exp. Back @ camp late aft. Worthy route, imo.
I remember just being do dam psyched to be climbing on El Cap on such a monumental route/ wall. What a cool place to be! No?
Perhaps this is what you left behind back at camp?
Another day, just you and your 2, and your psyche. Relax and kill it.
Focus on the positive dude.
Peace
A.






Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  Dec 22, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
I think the point of including freebust in the RTTN is to hone your french free skills...you know, the other aid climbing.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Dec 22, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
Hey, at least it's climbing content.

Better luck and choices next time. Keep at it.

And, yes, you can free climb 5.11...
Matt's

climber
  Dec 22, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
is this a troll?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Dec 22, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
That video is so mindbendingly embarrasing you gotta wonder if it's a troll. Who in their right mind would post it? All confused on the approach about where the Nose starts and where the Salathe starts? Helmets? A Helmet-mounted video camera?? Gasping for breath while jugging the line? "Contingency plans" at the top of the 2nd pitch? Aaaaaaargrgrgrhhhh! Must...claw...out...eyes...
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 22, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
WOW! That video is amazing. bvb nailed it.

Sorry guys.
Helmet GoPro
Hand Jammies
jumars
a million daisy chains
grigris
shunts
and was that a rope hook?

Is there anything you didn't take up there? Sorry, that video was just an impressive display of ineptitude.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Dec 22, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
You went to Yosemite, you climbed, you learned. Awesome! Keep making memories and having a good time, and try not to ever have the attitude of those ^^^ guys!

Prod

Trad climber
  Dec 22, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
Is your goal to climb the Nose or to climb El Cap?

Prod.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Dec 22, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
try not to ever have the attitude of those ^^^ guys!

LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 22, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
I figure a bad day climbing is better than a good day telling other people they suck at climbing. I didn't post this TR right after the trip because it was just SO bad. It was a total failure of a trip. Bringing too much stuff, not preparing, having terrible jugging technique, all of it. I could easily have edited out the huffing and puffing, the talking about fear and contingency plans, but I think many of us have had days like that, days we wouldn't want other people to see. I think more people should post about what they did wrong, and this forum would become more of a place to hone our skills. We'll never climb it like that again, but I think there's a place for talking about our failures and lessons learned.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Dec 22, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
You would be better off practicing aid on a steeper, seldom travelled aid line. Who needs the pressure of someone crawling up your butt with disdain in their eyes.
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
  Dec 24, 2012 - 11:39am PT
It was a total failure of a trip...

yada yada...

Beta: Enough already. Stop being the whipping boy. Find your inner Clint Eastwood, for chrissakes, both on the route and on this tr.

It's good you posted up. Move on now.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Dec 22, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Good effort.
Relic

Social climber
Weenie
  Dec 22, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
What happened after you guys finished putting on your harnesses at the car, I fell asleep.
Nate Ricklin

climber
San Diego
  Dec 23, 2012 - 10:40am PT
Wow, I just watched the video. I retract my earlier comments.

what?
what?
Credit: Nate Ricklin
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Dec 23, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
Hmmm... I am of two minds here.

First, the best/smartest thing you did that day was rap off. As I watched this I kept hearing Werner's radio cracklin'. You lads were NOT ready to be on el Cap. I realize modern technology, climbing gyms, and online beta have drastically shortened the route to EC but there is another aspect of climbing which shall always remain static: common sense and paying your dues. I guess that makes two constants. You were on the wrong route to practice aid. You want to practice aid on el Cap? Try the first couple of Dihedral. You will feel no obligation to free climb any of that and there will be no one pushing you up. But that also means there will be no one to free your stuck ropes. Hand Jammies? Really? Are you a cosmetologist come Monday morning? Come on! Man up!! Earn some scabs. Climbing is not about creature comforts. Finally, while I do appreciate seeing my old el Cap granite up close (brings back plenty of memories...) I almost blew chunks with the wide-angle tilt/pan action. Again, modern tech is cool because it does allow us to preserve memories and multi-task but there are editing tools also.


Now, having had a baby rant let me be slightly hypocritical and say, "nice try!" Climbing is nothing if not making some mistakes, taking some falls, swallowing your pride, and occasionally being in places you best not be. There isn't a curmudgeon on ST who has not brought more gear than needed, set up clusters, retreated, held up "better" climbers, and generally looked a bit foolish. Many a year ago it took me three tries to get up the SFWC (okay, we were rained off twice, but still) and on a recent Apron outing I got off-route and took a nice ride on a route I had done numerous times before leaving my well-respected veteran (but slightly]y retired) partners to wonder did I really know what I was doing? So you pissed some people off, so what? So you held up the Conga line, so what? So you retreated, so what? Did you spend a couple of hours with a friend on the magnificence that is el Cap? THAT, is a good day in any book!

Now, about that Bear Creek Spire video...
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
  Dec 23, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Yeah these guys are bad... 1st time with a grigri comment was priceless. Jugging the first pitch when it is one of the easiest pitches... Crazy cluster anchor setup.... Don't climb the Nose yet!
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Dec 23, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
LOL! Very funny.

TFPU!
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
  Dec 23, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
Woah man.....that anchor is Classic!!
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Dec 24, 2012 - 12:55am PT
I think there is a moral to this story...

Something along the lines of books like RTTN has made climbing El Cap a far more plausible objective for inexperienced Norts, Punters and Noobs worldwide.

Edit:
I must add that despite your in experience I admire your boldness, both in trying a route your were clearly not ready for and for sharing it with us.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
  Dec 23, 2012 - 01:43pm PT
I did similar as solo aid practice.

In the winter, 'tho, so I flailed away in peace, and had no illusions of getting much further than you did.

I like your calm communications in the video.

While some may have sprung, fully formed, Athena-like, from the stone, most climbers were inexperienced before they were experienced, but not necessarily recorded in such detail.
chappy

Social climber
ventura
  Dec 23, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Jesus Lucky you and your buddy have a long ways to go. Snake Dike and Free Blast as prep for the Nose? Don't think you could have picked worse routes. Your belay anchor was a mess and what is with the gloves and the biner through your jumar? Not to sound rude but you guys seem really quite clueless. If you want to climb the Nose the first thing you should do is learn how to free climb. Not sport gym climber climbing but Yosemite climbing. When you say you can climb 10a you are telling me you can't climb and have no business on the Nose. You don't have to be great but you should be able to climb a real Yosemite climb like N E Buttress of higher in a relatively quick efficient manner. When you can do this it means you have a basic mastery of hand, fist and chimney climbing--all things that will serve you well on the Nose and greatly enhance your chance of success. How do you do on Sacherer Cracker? It's similar to a lot of what you will find on the stovelegs. Does Bishops Terrace seem like hiking? When it does your hand jamming skills are where they should be. Donini's advice is solid. Practice aide on steeper more obscure routes. Do small walls at first. The S. Face of the Column is a good choice. When you can do that and other similar routes (the Leaning Tower is also good) and they don't seem like a big deal you're getting there. You are better off getting on the Nose over skilled than under prepared. El Cap is no place to have an epic. One final thing. Have a good understanding of how to clean pendulums and traverses. There are a lot on the Nose. Practice this on the ground or on short routes. What would be better practice than the Free Blast would be climbing to Sickle Ledge and then rapping. Hope this helps. Good Luck.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 23, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
Thanks for sharing,
Keep at it,
I'm a gumby too....:)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 24, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Yo Lucky - hope you aren't letting this this thread and some of the harsher responses get you down. You guys stunk up there, but hell, we've all blown it in some way at some point.

You didn't get hurt and you didn't get anyone else hurt, that's good. You didn't melt down as a team. Nobody bailed on anybody else. You've definitely got a lot of honing to do, system dialing etc., and you picked the wrong route to do it on - that's not the end of the world.

So some teams had to wait or change plans to another climb while you flailed, cry me a river. With 10k other diamond-quality routes in the Valley, it's hard to see them as victims.

This forum takes a thick skin, but most of these folks will be pulling for you in your future climbing goals. Some good advice here.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Dec 24, 2012 - 01:26am PT
I salute you guys for posting a TR that illustrates the downside of clogging a popular route when you're not really ready for it. That's helpful for us all and no everybody can see their own truth

Peace

Karl
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Dec 24, 2012 - 10:12am PT
I really recommend hiring a guide, or asking a pro, just for one day to show you systems and techniques. Or maybe you know them, and this is what you like doing. I guess that's cool, too.





Hehehe.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Dec 24, 2012 - 02:25am PT
I must add that despite your in experience I admire your boldness, both in trying a route your were clearly not ready for and for sharing it with us.


I agree with Kid Comer. Hell to the yeah for getting out there and getting in over your head. Extra credit for putting some people a huff :).
Bad Climber

climber
  Dec 24, 2012 - 10:02am PT
Serious slag around here! Besides your own growth as a climber, perhaps this post will wake up some other beginners and direct their learning efforts to more appropriate climbs. There is a lot of good advice in the responses, though. I would log serious time on crack routes like the N.E.Face of Higher Cathedral. Get up to speed in leading and rope handling on free climbs so you can do some grade V's in a day--stuff like the DNB, etc. And, as you now realize, work your systems so they're smooth, smooth, smooth. Find obscure lines with good rap possibilities (the direct line on Rixon's was a good choice back in my day), and rehearse. You want to be safe, but you have to be efficient and ALWAYS think about moving faster. It's so damn easy to eat up time dicking around with the gear. On a wall, you have to constantly be organizing and getting things ready while you're on the move.

Anyway, keep at it, check yer knots, and stay safe!

BAd
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Dec 24, 2012 - 10:15am PT
Went back and edited my last post, don't want people to get jumped on too much when they post TR's. ;D
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Dec 24, 2012 - 10:19am PT
All those beginners hopping on Freeblast, LOL! There should be armed guards at the base.
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
  Dec 24, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
I'm not going to talk about the climbing, the climb, the hand jammies, or any other number of items already discussed...

I just want to make a suggestion about the GoPro.

Mount it on the front of your helmet and point it DOWN, aim it at your toes. This way you can see your hands and feet as well as the truly mind-blowing exposure I'm sure you guys experienced on those 3 pitches. Trust me, it will make your future debacles look WAY better. And the point of this is to LOOK GOOD!

I flailed on the big stone a few times before summiting; don't let the turds on the taco get you down. And please keep posting so we can all make fun of you!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Dec 24, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
Well filmed debacles. Now that's advice the n00bs should run with!
LuckyJack

Trad climber
Novato, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 24, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Thanks guys for the advice. And I'm glad we provided you all some entertainment with our ineptitude! I like climbing with the camera just to be able to go back and see what happened without the bias of memory. We definitely realized that anchor building was one of our efficiency issues after the climb.
jplotz!

climber
Wenatchee, WA
  Dec 24, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Wow. Takes some brass balls to post that video. Insult to injury was your stuck rope despite the handy rope hook. I'm sure you'll fire it next time, and on your third lap, take an ' after' video, please...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 24, 2012 - 06:57pm PT
grade V's in a day--stuff like the DNB, etc

DNB?!?! Direct North Buttress of Middle?? Where some experienced people died after their anchor blew, cuz supposedly pro is sh#t? Doesn't Supertopo list is as a 5.12 runout on 5.10 terrain? I sure hope people who climb the nose do not HAVE to get on that to be sufficient! haha

I saw it listed as 10b on supertopo (without aid). Is that a variation?

Sorry for the little TR hijack...I have no shame :(
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Dec 24, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
Dude, C'mon. DNB ain't that bad.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Dec 24, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
I agree with Vitaliy, DNB does not seem an appropriate warmup.
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
  Dec 24, 2012 - 07:27pm PT
Lucky,
You can get on any route you want to no matter what your skill, don't let anyone tell you differently. I've done Free Blast and it's a long day for most of us. I'm sure you've learned a lot from the attempt. Probably more than from the pompous a**holes posting here. Good luck with your next wall.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Dec 24, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
I thought the video was quite good. It was un-posed, just people trying to climb something and had a great feel for being on El Cap.

As for the DNB being a stepping stone to El Cap, it will give you a stout lesson about what a 10b mantle is...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Dec 24, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
We may be pompous but our advice comes from about a gazillion years of shared and combined Yosemite experience. Take it or leave it; the razzing delivered here pales in comparison to what they would have gotten bitd in Camp Four, in addition to tips, gear, a cold OE800, and an enthusiastic "get back up there and send it, you n00b tard."
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Dec 24, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
I dont think all TRs need to be glamorous


 You're right… BUt they should… And so do many of the ST Community!!! lol


Hopes you two's get up that thing sooner than later, and eventually you'll be a modal of efficiency…


Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Dec 24, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
Yeah, what BVB says !

Luckyjack, ARE you going to send the Salathe ?

Ignore the BS. most of the other people you encounter early, fade with elevation gained. The hardest part of any climbing sleep over party is the first day. If you get past it, it only gets better. Your systems evolve, food gets eaten, water drank and the bags get lighter.

YAHOO !

Don't believe the hype, if you truly commit to it, you can do it. All the flashy freeing and hanging that's around has a certain percentage of "process" VS. results.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
  Dec 24, 2012 - 10:35pm PT
DNB is what you guys were probably looking for as a warm up. No hard parts on it but getting to the top before the sun goes down is going to be a test. You have to have your systems down and work well with your partner. I think its a good plan.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Dec 24, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
DnB is stupid practice for the nose except of the fact that it's long and you'd probably have an unplanned bivy which builds character and inspires proficiency. The Nose main defenses are thus"

It's a long way between bivy ledges so you have to be fast and efficient.

This includes strenuous cracks, aid climbing, and big wall logistics like hauling and dealing with pendulums. You have to be proficient on these three things (and never give up until forced to) in order to get up the Nose. R rated face climbing is not part of the picture

All those beginners hopping on Freeblast, LOL! There should be armed guards at the base.

Dude, whenever I've done a route that needs freeblast to start, the first, second and third thing I worry about it other people clogging the route in front of me. That's the crux

Peace

Karl
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
  Dec 25, 2012 - 01:08am PT
Def you guys should hit DNB next, no lineups ever over on the "other side" - your totally ready for it
Bad Climber

climber
  Dec 25, 2012 - 09:40am PT
Hey, my point about the DNB WAS about efficiency. Moving fast, setting lots o' anchors, getting it done. You've got some of everything on there, pretty much--cracks, chimney, face. I did it twice and don't recall ANY death pitches. It was/is a great climb. I did, however, enjoy knee pads on the long, moderate chimneys up high.

BAd
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 25, 2012 - 11:17am PT
Hey, my point about the DNB WAS about efficiency. Moving fast, setting lots o' anchors, getting it done. You've got some of everything on there, pretty much--cracks, chimney, face. I did it twice and don't recall ANY death pitches.

Oh I see, thanks for clarifying. Which topo did you use?
Still, for guys with messed up anchors, top rope whippers, 1st P stuck ropes, and go pros DNB is probably not the place (not even gonna mention the hand jammies). It seems kind of crazy (at least the version of DNB I think of), no one else there usually to help either (not like one should depend on others but at times it could work to your advantage if someone sees your epic and directs you).

Probably NE Buttress of Higher would be a better choice, on a week day lol
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/northeast-buttress/105862896
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
  Dec 30, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
I havent read all the comments but I think these guys did well and its a great TR as well. I think it is way sad some of the negative comments that appeared above. Silly really. Why I left Cali. Goodbye sunshine downer people.

GDavis that is a crazy pic.
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
  Dec 30, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
#FirstWordNOOBProblems
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz
  Jan 9, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
having been absent from the taco for a while, I saw this after getting the Climbing News e-mail from Chris Mac, and realized it's stuff like this that keeps me coming back to the forum....

you can't make this sh#t up....or can you?
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Jan 10, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
boy howdy, opinionsandas#@&%es,,gotta loveit,point is ya gotta want it,if your EVER gonna get it,,good luck,,
Fogastro

Trad climber
Peoria
  Jan 10, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
This is a great trip report - a real-world reminder that it's too easy to get in over your head in many things these days. Good luck on your next route - happy climbing
duke of puke

climber
boulder, co
  Jan 11, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
The comment about firing a gun over their heads made my day. It'll probably make my day tomorrow too!

I think it's your best advice.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Jan 12, 2013 - 12:02am PT
They called people "noob tards" back in the day?

I won't even tell you about my valley phuq ups.

live and learn, like the dudes that tried to rap the nose recently.

What happened to that dude anyway?
D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
  Jan 12, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
i think the true question that this TR prompts is... what is the road to Freeblast? I heard a few suggestions, NEB of higher, possibly DNB, sacherer cracker, bishop's terrace, S face of the column, direct to rixon's... other suggestions?

For me, Freeblast is on my bucket list and certainly above my current pay grade, but this TR was a great precaution for those of us wondering if it's time for something like freeblast.

...and of course, if any rope gun out there wants a sucker for a belayer, sign me up, i'll follow you up anything 5.11 and under... except for the half dollar pitch... I kinda want that pitch for myself... oh and if i ever do the whole thing to the top, i kinda want the hollow flake for myself too

S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Jan 15, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
bump for this rad tale.

what happened to the guy that tried to rap the nose?!?!?!
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El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
Photo: Mark Kroese
Other Routes on El Capitan
El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Nose, 5.14a or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
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The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
El Capitan
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
El Capitan
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
East Buttress, 5.10b
El Capitan
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
El Capitan - The Shield A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Shield, A3 5.8
El Capitan
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The Shield is route number 7.
More routes on El Capitan