Trip Report
Free & Easy 5.7 at Tollhouse Rock
Wednesday December 28, 2011 5:38pm
Thanks to the new Kroll & Slater "A climbers guide to Tollhouse Rock" I have found some enjoyable new climbs to add to my list. We (Janna and I) climbed the 3 pitch route in a leisurely 2.5 hours. We used my new christmas gift, a 9.9mm 70 meter dry New England rope. This proved to be very useful as I am sure I did not do the original start or finish. Anyways here's some pictures with descriptions.

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Free & Easy 5.7 (or at least my version of it)
Free & Easy 5.7 (or at least my version of it)
Credit: hairyapeman
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Hiking to the start. My friend (Janna's husband) was there with a telephoto lens taking some cool shots of us during the whole thing.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Looking up where we started at. Don't know if it was the actual start. If you do decide to start here, just know that my 70 meter rope barley made it to the top of pitch one.
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Oops. Sorry. This picture is actual a zoomed in one at the top of P1.
Oops. Sorry. This picture is actual a zoomed in one at the top of P1.
Credit: hairyapeman
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Looking back from the top of pitch one. You can barley see Janna at the bottom.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Janna almost done.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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One awesome shot my friend got atop cap rocks. We were about 300 ft below him! Thanks to my wife's telephoto lens. We are at the comfy belay ledge on pitch one. By the way this area is awesome!
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Starting up pitch 2. It leads with 3 bolts before it takes a left facing open book. Supposedly that 5.7 "Crux" is here. I did no find it that hard.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Looking back part way up pitch 2. The crack was filled with old piton scars. It mostly took small nuts to gray and purple camalots.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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More proof about some of the over bolting at tollhouse. Found this about half way up the open book on pitch 2. I can't complain too much since I did clip it!
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Janna trying to figure out the moves to over come the roof. All it takes is some guts, as the moves are pretty easy.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Janna coming to the top of pitch 2. Now when I left this station I decided to go straight up since the was a bolted sport line that looked fun. I believe it was "Munge Master 5.9". I highly recommend this ending. It was a super fun!
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Getting ready to start the Munge! Being only her 3 time out, she did really good.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Coming up to the munge.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Finishing up on a cap rock route, I have no idea which one.
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Credit: hairyapeman
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Overall this route had it all. Crack (fist to fingers), open book, roof, slab, and if you end it the way we did, pretty sweet face with huecos and all! The route says pro to 1.5 inch. Plenty of short and long slings prove helpful since the route tends to zig-zag. A good route to introduce newbies to a more mixed style climb at tollhouse. Try it out!













  Trip Report Views: 3,276
hairyapeman
About the Author
hairyapeman is a trad climber from Fres-yes.

Comments
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Dec 28, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
While it hasn't been good for skiers, the mild Winter we've had so far in California has been a real bonus for late-season climbing. This looks like an awesome chunk of rock, which I'd love to check out some day. Thanks for sharing your great day on the crags with others!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Dec 28, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
Nice work. Free and Easy is great. Tollhouse bump.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 28, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
Thanks, hairyape, good times!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Dec 28, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
Nice
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Dec 29, 2011 - 12:30pm PT
Nice! Have to get out there this next year. And, we should get a locals get together in the works again. Thanks for the inspiration.
Bascuela

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Dec 29, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
My first lead...

I got to admit I think I've always been using a higher start on P1. With the new guide it shows the start much lower and I wondered if a 60 would do.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
  Dec 29, 2011 - 02:13pm PT
Nice!

Great rope. I have 2 of them. You'll love it.
hairyapeman

Trad climber
Fres-yes
Author's Reply  Dec 29, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
Have to get out there this next year. And, we should get a locals get together in the works again. Thanks for the inspiration.

It's called Tollhouse Faceoff. It is held every year (most of the time) for a while. I went this year and had a great time. I actually won a Metolious master cam from a lottery that was used to raise money for the ASCA. Good times.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
  Dec 30, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
Nice trip report. There are several alternate starts to Free and Easy. You chose the one with the most bang for buck. The friction climbing off of the pitch one belay was a lot tougher with the old hard rubber on Robbins Boots or PA's and such. Even EB's helped a lot, but you still had to be delicate. Modern rubber makes it pretty casual. Climb it with hiking boots or cheap tennies to recapture the old feeling! Hmmmm? Naw! Does make for 3 scenic and fun pitches doesn't it?
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Dec 31, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
Nice shots. I've always done it as described here.

The single bolt on the dihedral is also present in the Seki guide, and used along with gear to belay, before the small roof.

My friend Mike at the belay
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 3, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
Right on, good stuff.
Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Feb 15, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
The single bolt in the dihedral is a new replacement for the first ascent bolt. The crack did not accept pitons or the early hex nuts very well for that belay stance in 1972 so Dennis Adams put in a bolt for extra safety.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 10, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
Bump for Free and Easy. A classic!

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