Trip Report
First ascent of Ren Zhong Feng, Sichuan Province, China.
Friday November 27, 2015 11:04am
There is a good description of this climb here http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web09f/newswire-danes-ren-zhong-feng-hungarians-missing so I'll spare you the details.

On the descent from the summit during the night we of course got hit by a storm. Being very tired my climbing partner took a fall and slid on his back down one side of the icy ridge. I didn't have much time to think, but the only way tp keep him from pulling me off too was to jump down the other side of the ridge. So that is exactly what I did. Pretty sketchy, but sometimes the easy climbing is what is the most dangerous...

Needless to say, this was a real adventure and there are literally hundreds of similar peaks waiting for their FA in the Sicuan Province and the eastern region of Tibet as Tamotsu Nakamura has documented in many reports such as this one http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/wfeature-nakamura-unclimbed-peaks

top left corner top right corner
Approach across steep permafrozen dirt slope. Notice the crampons...
Approach across steep permafrozen dirt slope. Notice the crampons...
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Approach couloir.
Approach couloir.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Lots of digging to solid footholds.
Lots of digging to solid footholds.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
More snow.
More snow.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Getting to some rock.
Getting to some rock.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Upper couloir.
Upper couloir.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Bivy on some rocks as we could not find room for our tent.
Bivy on some rocks as we could not find room for our tent.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Mixed dihedral.
Mixed dihedral.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Finally on the ridge, but we were too late to continue to the summit t...
Finally on the ridge, but we were too late to continue to the summit that day.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
We found a spot for the tent to the side of the ridge.
We found a spot for the tent to the side of the ridge.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Icy ridge.
Icy ridge.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Bulletproof ice.
Bulletproof ice.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Steep glacier ice to gain the final summit ridge.
Steep glacier ice to gain the final summit ridge.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Stepping onto a previously unclimbed summit was an almost religious fe...
Stepping onto a previously unclimbed summit was an almost religious feeling.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
bottom left corner bottom right corner

There is a Youtube slidshow of the climb here:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

  Trip Report Views: 1,858
KristofferSzilas
About the Author
Kristoffer Szilas is a mountain climber from Denmark.

Comments
Keith Leaman

Trad climber
  Nov 27, 2015 - 11:07am PT
Delivered as promised. Thanks for all the TRs!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Nov 27, 2015 - 11:24am PT
Agree with my buddy. I've been loving your TR's. Thanks for helping this site avoid political quagmires.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Nov 27, 2015 - 11:59am PT
I can't get enough!
Better than a good book or a thrilling movie
The installments....looking for the next one!

Susan
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Nov 27, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
Ye gads man!!
AND WHAT EVER ELSE YOU DO TOO!
THANX FOR ALL THIS STUFF !!
Go