Epinephrine 5.9

 
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Black Velvet Canyon


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
First Trip To Red Rock
Saturday April 7, 2012 4:34pm
When leaving for a trip its inevitable that friends will ask where you're going. Climbing destinations often seem to be in the "worst" spots. "I am going to bishop." "to where?" "Why would you go there?" Its almost guaranteed that if you are not a climber then when I tell you I am going to Red Rock you'll have no idea what that means. "Its just outside of Vegas" seems to get the point across. Vegas for spring break, living the dream...I don't think they understand.

Here's a quick intro video.




So we made it into the area about 3pm on Wednesday the 28th. Headed for the camp ground. Why is there no sign for it when heading toward Red Rock? Only a sign for the BLM fire station. One U-turn later we were heading down the right road. The Red Rock campground as I am sure many of you know, is just is the best least windy spot in the whole canyon. Not really, but we found a spot and that is enough to make me happy. Then strait to climbing after the 7 hour drive.

This is it right?
This is it right?
Credit: Crackofdawn

Sandstone Quarry our first stop. Needed a little multi-pitch warm up for tomorrow and I had been wanting to get on Monster Shank ever since I saw a photo of it.

Headed up pitch one, Man's Best Friend 5.7...weeeeee
Headed up pitch one, Man's Best Friend 5.7...weeeeee
Credit: Crackofdawn


Got everyone up. Now for the real fun.

Monster Shank 13b......Made it to the top....minus a few hangs we coul...
Monster Shank 13b......Made it to the top....minus a few hangs we could call it a send, maybe next time.
Credit: Crackofdawn

No one got up....only I tried...haha

The next day we got up around 6:30am and headed for Mescalito to get on Cookie monster. Of course there was a huge line already so hell with it, lets try C11 H17NO3....wtf is that? a nice 5.7 in the guide book. Mountain project had a more accurate description that we read after the fact. "I climbed this route today and found it to be nothing less than an "adventure climb." It often ascends flaring chimneys and includes a couple of hard to protect traverses. It was definately a fun climb, but it was also significantly more difficult and dangerous than we expected." Exactly....

Kinda looks like a pile a choss from a distance.
Kinda looks like a pile a choss from a distance.
Credit: Crackofdawn

Going up
Going up
Credit: Crackofdawn

At the top of Cat in the Hat...our way down.
At the top of Cat in the Hat...our way down.
Credit: Crackofdawn

Headed down
Headed down
Credit: Crackofdawn

Everyone made it safe..tired after that adventure. Here is a quick video showing the route.




We spent Friday sport climbing at the Pantie Wall some easier stuff for enjoyment. After it got over crowded, we left for the Sandy Corridor. "The Ring Leader 5.8 proved to be a fun lead for me and good climbing for the others.

high up
high up
Credit: Crackofdawn

A view
A view
Credit: Crackofdawn

Saturday morning we packed up vacating our in demand camp site, but we couldn't resist the opportunity for a little more climbing. Tsunami wall was a fun last stop to remove any remaining skin from our fingers. Also a good choice to avoid the crowds.

start of abandon ship 12a, fun heel hook.
start of abandon ship 12a, fun heel hook.
Credit: Crackofdawn

SOS 13a....seemed way hard
SOS 13a....seemed way hard
Credit: Crackofdawn

Chris topping out on Tremor 10a
Chris topping out on Tremor 10a
Credit: Crackofdawn

to much fun
to much fun
Credit: Crackofdawn

Lou, ready to head home after 4 days.
Lou, ready to head home after 4 days.
Credit: Crackofdawn

Overall great trip. Will hopefully be back soon. Hope you enjoyed.


  Trip Report Views: 1,302
Crackofdawn
About the Author
Crackofdawn is a climber from Ca.

Comments
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phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Apr 7, 2012 - 05:25pm PT
It looks like you had great weather for your first trip. Glad you and your crew had a good time!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 7, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
Thanks for the photos and writeup. Looks fun.
scaredycat

Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
  Apr 7, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
Really? Climbing thread with photos of climbs at Red Rock that I've never head-of, with only 3 replies.

bump.

MH2

climber
  Apr 7, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
Cool! And...uh....fun.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 10, 2012 - 06:08am PT
Sweet tr and great first trip!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
  Apr 10, 2012 - 06:29am PT
Looks like a nice trip!

Cookie Monster with a line. Whodathunkit? My first climb at Red Rocks over 20 years ago.

Last time I was by there, the campground had a little sign with a "tent" on it marking the road. It wasn't exactly prominent, but it was there.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Apr 10, 2012 - 07:19am PT
Rad intro Video! Thanks for the share!
Prod

Trad climber
  Apr 10, 2012 - 07:21am PT
Nice work, and a fun report.

Is it just me, or is this TR in the Epi route beta tab on everyones computer?

Prod.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 10, 2012 - 07:54am PT
Nice vid and TR!
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Epinephrine ascends the ominous 600-foot-tall chimney.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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Overhanging Hangover ascends an intimidating and exposed roof.
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