Trip Report
FA of the South Duke, Taku Range
Thursday April 17, 2014 12:13pm
Here's the FA of Bo Duke-It (IV WI5 M6+ 1,300') on the South Duke in the Taku Range last Saturday with Kris Williams. Likely the FA of the South Duke as well.

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

Credit: johnkelley

  Trip Report Views: 1,122
johnkelley
About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
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thebravecowboy

climber
strugglin' to make time to climb
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
man you must get up early!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
I was wondering where the 'Take' Range was. HaHaHaHa! Or is it where
n00b belayers go?

Good job! Or should I say, do you have a job? You do get out! :-)
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
Yeah I work full time. How else would I pay for the ride?

Credit: johnkelley
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
Every good weekend? You in the oil business?

so hows the granite overall?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
Hey, I grew up in Chicago where a lot of guys who didn't appear to work
had nice rides, ya know? Of course, you didn't ask them about their jobs. ;-)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
Looks pretty cool, glad you keep posting your trips here. Alpine content is very appreciated.
And hope you have a great year in 2014!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 17, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
Cooooool! Another John Kelley TR. Beautifull and coldly inspiring!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 17, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
Yeehaw. Way to get bold and cold. There's enough sissy El Cap in the summer action around Supertopo. Way to keep it alpine. Thanks for the photos and shout out to the big Range.

Scott
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Apr 17, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
South Duke is the peak on the right hand side.

Credit: johnkelley
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Apr 17, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
Glad I live in Cali. I was born in Anchorage.

Hats off guys.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Apr 17, 2014 - 02:24pm PT










johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Apr 17, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
Credit: johnkelley
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Apr 23, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
No not in the oil business
eKat

Trad climber
  Apr 24, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
TFPU. . . let's see if this gets it on the front page of the forum.

Again. . . TFPU!
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Apr 24, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
Yeah it wasn't showing up in the forum at all. Wasn't showing up when I searched for it either.
eKat

Trad climber
  Apr 24, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
Weird how that happens.

I found it in your profile tab. It's in the Trip Reports tab, too.

WORTH A BUMP!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Apr 24, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
Sweet, thanks!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Apr 24, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
Way to keep knocking them out John. Any pictures of the WI5 pitch(es)? We got a little ice climbing in the hills this week but it no longer looks like winter around here, but the big horns had an epic year for snow and should be coming into to shape as we speak. Lots of ice/mixed opportunities on climbs of similar size to the one in this report, but the approaches are a we bit long and there is no helecopter service.
Credit: mike m
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
  Apr 24, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
Awesome -- TFPU!
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Apr 24, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
bump
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Apr 24, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
proud work, congrats, and thanks for sharing.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Apr 24, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
TFPU!

Dayumn mike m, that is a fine looking line as well.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Apr 24, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
Way Cool!
TFPU
Tad
Sanskara

climber
  Apr 24, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
Thanks for keeping me excited to get back climbing while I'm couch bound!

More quality content from people actually out climbing..

Thank you!
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
  Apr 24, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
Nice John, Way to seek them out. I'd like to hear how your plans for Nepal worked out pm me if you get the time.
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
  Apr 30, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
Neat ascent. Worthy of inclusion in the AAJ and the Scree.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Apr 30, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
Thanks for pointing us in the direction of your TR, JohnKelley. Congrats on the route. Very exciting!
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
  May 1, 2014 - 01:20pm PT
By the way, the summit of The Dukes (aka South Duke) was first reached in 1965 by E. Miller.
Jdizzle

Boulder climber
Lander, wy
  May 1, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
Nicely done!
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  May 1, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
Hey Phred where did you get that information? I haven't been able to find anything on the Dukes and very little on the Taku Range
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
  May 1, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
I got that info from the Hoeman Collection that is housed in the Archives and Special Collections Section of the UAA/APU Consortium Library in Anchorage. There's also more information in that collection on other ascents in the Taku Range. Also, ascents in the Taku Range are mentioned in the AAJ, Appalachia, Harvard Mountaineering, Ascent, Climbing, and the Scree.
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