Trip Report
FA near Yosemite Falls Trail "Scrambles The Death Dealer"
Friday October 4, 2013 12:37am
At the start of the upper switchbacks on the Yosemite Falls trail is my new route officially open to the public. I know a route I did in 2004 is not "new" but is was unreported and now upgraded. It's above and right of the Tucker classic route "No Teats".

Scrambles The Death Dealer is a scary runout death-piece that should be completely avoided unless you like to skid down a sharp slab for 40 feet or more. It follows a water streak under a roof and the rock is solid and compact. You can't see the first bolt from the ground. However, there is a left facing corner before it that accepts solid cams, after a 30 foot start with no pro, but it's only like 5.6+

As of 8/13 the bolts on this route are solid 5/16 and 3/8. The first very long 200 foot pitch has chains to rap off.

Not for the faint of heart
Scrambles
Scrambles
Credit: klaus

the Death Dealer
the Death Dealer
Credit: klaus

Jason wondering why we aren't on the other side
Jason
Jason
Credit: klaus


OMG the rope feels heavy for face climbing!
200 foot pitch
200 foot pitch
Credit: klaus

Jason leading pitch 2
Jason on pitch 2
Jason on pitch 2
Credit: klaus

Jason on pitch 2 desperately hanging on
pitch 2
pitch 2
Credit: klaus

rapping
rapping
Credit: klaus

forgot the chain for this one
rap anchor
rap anchor
Credit: klaus

next route may be closed for restoration
nailing in a closure
nailing in a closure
Credit: klaus

  Trip Report Views: 1,885
klaus
About the Author
klaus is a big wall climber from Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka.

Comments
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RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Oct 4, 2013 - 12:43am PT
Nice dude! I like the route name.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:42am PT
Thanks K. Nice looking route in a novel location. That area up there is fun too especially with the sound of the Falls if they are running, creating a day at the beach feeling.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Oct 4, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Pretty line.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Oct 4, 2013 - 12:55am PT
very cool.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:01am PT
no rope required?

whats the angle of the dangle?

would gas soaked boulders cause a trundle fire at night?

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:01am PT
nice.
nopantsben

climber
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:17am PT
i think jason told me about that route. looks cool.. next time i gotta go up there. what about a photo of the route next to lower yos falls you and jason did?
WBraun

climber
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Cool klaus and Jason will be down to your house tomorrow as we just had dinner here ....

The red arrow is a thin crack that goes up the wall I tried years ago.

I couldn't do it, you'll see my lower off nut with biner if you ever go up there to try. (New Route)

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:36am PT
would this be considered friction climbing?

do i need a prospectors hammer to chip holds?

Yosemite Falls Campground open, right?

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:41am PT
What? No death blocks?

Great name.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Oct 4, 2013 - 03:40am PT
Sweet looking line!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Oct 4, 2013 - 04:46am PT
Looks nice and clean. I thought there might be some good potential up there. It's cool that you got back on it and also upgraded the bolts.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
  Oct 4, 2013 - 04:15am PT
you said sh#t was 5.9!

Glad you got it done.

Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
  Oct 4, 2013 - 04:20am PT
Slaaaaaabbbbbb!!

Love the name. : >


Thanks for sharing. ~_~
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Oct 4, 2013 - 10:33am PT
Thanks for the post dude . . . nice line.

Tell us more stories.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 4, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
I just walked under all that and, as usual, wondered what was up with all that primo slabbage. That rock is so good. Thanks klaus. And Clint.

KP Ariza

climber
SCC
  Oct 4, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
Great looking line Eric.
Thanks for the write up.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 4, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
<3 slab

Clint's overview pic makes it look massive. The shot from the base makes it look reasonable.

It's a Klaus route. Gotta go with Clint's pic. heh
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 4, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Is there a P. 3 in the cards? Cliff seems to keep going...
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 4, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Nice!

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Oct 7, 2013 - 03:44am PT
Took you 9 years to write this report? Gawd. :)
Heffey

Trad climber
Nashville, TN
  Jan 28, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
Friends don't let friends climb slabs.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jan 28, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
Friends don't let friends climb slabs.
Duh, Friends are for cracks. :-)
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