Trip Report
FA Sentinel Falls
Sunday April 1, 2007 12:05pm
I found these old photos from the FA of upper Sentinel Falls. The quality is marginal but they are of some interest. For those of you who don't know Sentinel Falls is a 2,000ft or so waterfall just west of Sentinel Rock. It has an interesting history as an ice climb. Kevin Worrall, Jim Orey and I did the FA of the upper falls in Dec. 1974. This was the first real ice climb done in the Valley. Later, the lower section was climbed... by who first I am not sure. The entire falls has only been climbed once in a stupendous effort by (I believe) the late great Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg. (Please chime in KF)Our ascent was a fun adventure for the three of us--ice novices all. Charlie Porter first pointed out the climb to me in the spring of 1974. The previous winter Charlie had climbed some ice flow in the meadows and was interested in other potential ice climbs in the Yosemite including the Widows Tears. I had always had a interest in alpine climbing (as many of my generation did) stemming from my introduction to climbing through reading the history of the classic ascents of the Alps and other great ranges. Some element of adventure always seemed to be missing from my Yosemite climbs on the Valley's perfect sunny granite. There was a renaissance under way in the sport of ice climbing. Chouinard, among others, was busy reinventing the tools of the trade. The concept of climbing water ice as a sport unto itself was becoming a reality. I believe Jello and Mike Weiss made their ascent of Bridalviel Falls at this time. I was eager to participate and in the summer of 74 bought a collection of ice gear from a climbing buddy of mine in the bay area. As it came to pass one sunny December day in the Valley Kevin, Jim and I were all sitting atop the large Yellow pine in Leidig meadow. We had a perfect view of the Falls and formed our plan there. We would hike up through the forest and talus below the Falls, traverse up a ledge system leading to a parallel gully to the west, ascend this until we could traverse back to the upper falls. It all went according to plan. We made our way up the appraoch, which took us a day, and bivied on the ridge seperating the two gullies. The next day we continued the approach and soon had our first glimpse of the climb. I was so excited. I had never seen anything like this. A frozen waterfall!! What could be cooler than that? We made our way to the base. There was this little minny bergschund at the base forming a perfect little mouth with icicle teeth. None of us had every climbed anything like this before and we didn't really know where to start. We pounded in a warthog, clipped in a rope and all gave it a tug. It didn't pull out, so figuring the pro was good, I started up the first pitch. My climbing attire was a bit lacking. I was clad in corduroy bell bottom jeans (hey, it was the seventies)with no gators. I gingerly made my way up the near vertical ice for about fifty ft taking my first chance to exit onto the rock and belay. Jim followed this pitch first and then led a short steep section to an obvious bowl. Kevin must have led the next pitch and then I was on the lead again. By the time I finished leading the last steep section it was dark. Kevin and Jim followed. I remember being so cold at the belay, tied to this pathetic scrawny pine sapling. I was shivering away in the shade of the bright winter moonlight beliving that as soon as the moonlight reached me I would warm up. We endured our second bivy here. It was one of the longest coldest bivies of my climbing life, right around the winter solstice. Finally, dawn arrived and we made our way up the last low angle pitch to the Valley rim. We postholed east under Sentinel Dome and then headed for the Four Mile trail which took us the Valley, sunshine, and food. Shortly there after Jim took leave of us and Kevin and I turned our sights to the obvious encore--the Widows Tears.




Kev and Jim on the approach


Kev at the base


Me starting up pitch one


Higher up pitch one


Jim on pitch two


Jim pitch two

  Trip Report Views: 1,207
chappy
About the Author
chappy is a social climber from ventura.

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Blowboarder

Boulder climber
Back in the mix
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
WOW!!!!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
Bravo Chappy!
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Author's Reply  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
I missed one photo. Kevin at the base of the route.

Mimi

climber
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:12pm PT
That's fat! Cool shots from when the piolet was king. Thanks Mark.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
Hi Mark,

How are you? Very cool to hear this story. Are you still in contact with Jim? The first time I met him was the same year at Lovers Leap. He walked up to the base of the Line in his tennis shoes and a six pack. Gene Drake and I dropped him a rope and he cruised the route with his six-pack dangling from a carabiner.

Thanks,
Ken
Zander

climber
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
Thanks Chappy,
I'm loving your stories from the way back machine.
Zander
426

climber
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
Super stuff...more than cool.

Hey Chicken, do you still have contact info for Gene? He really helped this n00b out a bunch; heard he's not doing great right now...
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
Now that is cool...good effort getting those posted.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Apr 1, 2007 - 12:47pm PT
I'm lucky I'm getting to see this stuff. Great shots of a really cool and historic adventure. Many thanks for posting Mark. Wow.
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Author's Reply  Apr 1, 2007 - 01:05pm PT
Ken,
I don't know where Jim ended up. We did a fair amount of climbing together back in the day. A great guy and a great climber. I first met him when I did the nose with Rieder in 72. He was on the Muir Wall with Jack Roberts and we exchanged hellos as he and Jack headed into the Muir dihedrals and Rick and I entered the Nose dihedrals. In the fall of 74 Jim and I did the 4th ascent of Tis Sa Ack. He did the entire route with only a swami belt using only the classic aider rest possition! We also did an ascent of the N face of Mt Assiniboine and the FA of Eagles Way together. He also the FA of pitch one of Hardth (Spelling??) at the Cookie. I'll post a photo of him.
Say high to Hayley!
Chappy
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 1, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
Mark,

Gene has been in contact with him and I can find out how to get a hold of him for you. I will say hi to Hayley. 426, I sent you an email.

Ken
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 1, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
thanks for the TR Mark,
I loved the images. I think that it's important to distinguish the two, photographs and images. We can criticize photographs in terms of technique, focus, exposure, composition, contrast, color saturation, etc. But as images, the ones you have posted have a great deal of authenticity and power. Especially when there is a narrative associated with them, as in this case, and an importance — such as a break through First Ascent.

I loved the images...
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 1, 2007 - 02:25pm PT
Mark
A historic and superior effort. Thanks for the post. I'll try to get Kevin F to post up about the ascent with Walt. We've talked at length about it and it's worth hearing. Congrats on the little gold man also.
WJF
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Author's Reply  Apr 1, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
Thanks Ed. I agree. I love historical images. Recently I purchased Glen Denny's book which works on both levels--great photographs and timeless imagery. Over the years my equipment and technique as a photographer improved a great deal but what I wouldn't do for a second chance to relive so many great moments I missed recording with any old camera at my side. I am thankful for what scant images I do have. I have a photo essay on Kev's and my ascent of the Tears as well. I'll post it soon. I remember at that time barely having the money for a single roll of Kodachrome.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Apr 1, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
Walleye and Chappy,

looking forward to it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Apr 1, 2007 - 06:56pm PT
I had forgotten that miserable bivi til I read Mark's post. I'm thinking it was the solstice, if I remember right. I know it was the longest night of the winter, regardless.

In a rare moment of sleep that night I dreamt I was in my girlfriend's dorm room on the Valley floor, sleeping all warm and safe. But as if I had pushed the (-) button on google earth, I suddenly flew out of the building and watched it grow smaller and smaller as my consciousness returned to our slippery little snow ledge high above the Valley and L Dorm.

What a cool route! The deep blue ice flowing down through dark lichen covered stone, and the bird's eye view of Leidig Meadow and Camp Four. The approach we did was an adventure in itself.

Thanks for stirrin up the memories Mark.

Kevin
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Apr 1, 2007 - 08:17pm PT
wow! is right! rad Mark!



anyone (not just Chappy) that digs up old pics and scans and posts them is right on!
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Apr 1, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
Wow...thanks for taking the time to share that!
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Apr 1, 2007 - 10:35pm PT
Very nice :)
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Apr 1, 2007 - 11:12pm PT
Nice TR Chappy! I'm not a big fan of ice climbing, but your post made me want to give it a try!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
  Apr 1, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Mark thanks for the awesome story. I look forward to reading about the tears. You guys are true adventures.

Paging Kevin Fosburg, bring on the trip report from your ascent.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Apr 2, 2007 - 02:59pm PT
Nice post, Mark.

You guys were nuts. Likeable, very skilled, and brave, but f*#king nuts.

You have all that warm, sunlit granite to climb and, as Kevin points out, warm beds with pretty girls to get a good nights rest and have some real fun, and you choose adventure--bivvying on some frozen ledge on the dark side of the Valley, with bell bottom corduroys (at least you were stylish).

Now you have sensible ST Campers plucking up the courage to say, "I want to try vertical ice. The closer to warm, sunlit granite the better to measure my suffering."

Otherwise, very nice. Great that you had a camera. I don't think that I even knew you, Kevin and Jim were doing that. The dorm room I was staying in was very comfortable and I barely looked out the window--I was having too much fun, so to speak.

Best, Roger

PS: Anyone want to see my old images of sunlit granite and well appointed dorm rooms?

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Jan 8, 2008 - 01:35am PT
It would be seasonal to have this appear briefly. Steve might call it bardbait, I suppose. Bump.

Edit: Bumped because it's so interesting, and is seasonal. Embryonic indexes have their uses. Not bumped so as to pester Roger - though if he has old pictures, it would be nice to see them, and hear some stories.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jan 8, 2008 - 01:40am PT
hey Roger, the answer is YES, we want to see your pictures!
(haven't you got them scanned yet?!)

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jan 8, 2008 - 01:56pm PT
Post away Roger!!! Please...
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Jan 8, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
Hey guys, that post was from Apirl of 07. It is a new year. No fair. Anyway, I was just jerking Mark's chain and pointing out my totally different (and misguided, it turns out) approach to the purpose of climbing: I thought it was to have fun and Mark thought it was to be hard--really, really hard.

OK, OK. Sometimes we fun loving guys were really, really hard too, but I ain't showing you any pictures taken in some cozy dorm room.

And, no, Ed, I have not scanned in my pictures. Not even the sunlite granite ones.

Happy New Year.
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
  Jan 8, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
Cool pics. Thanks for sharing.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
  Jan 8, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
A brief anecdote to tap onto this thread.

The climb of Sentinel Falls was reported in Mountain magazine #42 (March/April 1975.) In the same column is a brief report on Chapman's and Worral's ascent of The Widow's Tear. The headline was, 'Frozen Yosemite waterfalls climbed by Chapman and Worral."

Sometime after the issue came out I was hanging around C4 when I saw Mark walk into the site where Bridwell an Worral were hanging out. Bridwell announced loudly, "Chapman climbs frozen Worral!" To a young, impressionable mind this was the funniest and coolest thing I had ever heard.

Aside: Mark... I used to work at Mountain Life in Campbell with Dan McHale, Mark Rodell, Bob Todd, Bill Burns, Jack Forsythe, etc. I climbed mostly with Blanchard, Glen Garland, etc. I remember the day you came in and we all checked out the new Ascent magazine with your Owl Roof shots. Cool stuff!

Simon
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
  Jan 8, 2008 - 05:02pm PT
Awe struck!! A wonderful gem to post up Mark!!

Thanks,
Dave
fourmiletrail

climber
  Apr 30, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
Yeah .
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
Ice bump
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 17, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
Awesome!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Feb 26, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
Awesome trip report, thank you for sharing!
10b4me

climber
  Mar 12, 2014 - 10:36am PT
Bump
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