Trip Report
F.A. Plate Tectonics VI, 5.12 C1 East Face of the North Tower of Paine
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Sunday January 27, 2013 7:13pm
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Myles Moser
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About the Author
Myles Moser is a climber from Lone Pine, Ca. |
Comments
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Jan 27, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
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Awesome name for a route....can't wait to read the TR
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Jan 27, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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Yeah ! and more pictures !
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 27, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!! It *always* takes longer than you think!
Nice send!
Six feet? Who cares!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 27, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
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Wow looks rad. All that training round the portal paying off. Keep the psych an keep sendin!! Look forward to more,..
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 08:58am PT
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Bahhhhh! Daniel want more!
Congratulations on the success, and TFGMHU (thanks for getting my hopes up).
Looking forward to the rest of the story, great job!
Edit: Those pics on the blog are awesome!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 27, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Congrats and thanks for the word. I knew that if you two got the right break in the weather we'd be hearing some wild news. Good one!!
Can we assume that after a send like that, all sorts of people are stepping up to help you re-equip?
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 27, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Chris we are heading for the hardware store tomorrow for a couple tubes of bathroom caulking, lots of glue, enough duct tape to tape the ledge to the wall... If we have to. A rubber ducky suit for material, and replacement carbon tent poles, you know the Walmart ones... A buck a pole, not bad! Oh and a spool of thread, not just for the fly... we loss some weight up there!
We also found a place that sells boat rope! And they got lots of it!
Pete.... I can live with six feet.
Funny video comin'.
Chow!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Great stuff!
While you freeze, I shall enjoy your Lone Pine sunshine in your stead!
:)
Cheers,
M
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crøtch
climber
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Woooooooohhoooooo. You guys rock. I can't imagine how I'd feel with a hole like that sitting in my tent at Campamento Japones. Must have been nuts to be on the wall with that much "ventilation".
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WML
climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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FVCKING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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Go Myles and Amy!! So happy for you guys.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Nice! Congrats! I remember staring at that thing two years ago and
thinking, "Now there's some quality choss!"
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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Lovin' that video. Glad it's just a hole in your ledge.
Hats off to a fine adventure.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Awesome to hear about you guys killing it out there in S. America! Good luck on other towers and get home safe!
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Regan
Big Wall climber
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
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Awesome climb. Congrats!!!
More photos, stories and more walls please...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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Holy SuperCrushin' Batman!
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CalicoJack
climber
CA
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Damn!!!!!!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jan 28, 2013 - 04:18am PT
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YEAH BABY!!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 28, 2013 - 05:45am PT
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Oh Yeah! Way to branch into the further range in adventure style!!
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Leggs
Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
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Jan 28, 2013 - 05:49am PT
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We can't remember the date we started and finished. Two month left... Two Towers to go!
Pretty incredible.
Great summit shot.
~peace
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:07am PT
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SWEET SEND
Sorry about your ledge, glad no one was home when the axe fell.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:45am PT
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There's climbing outside of CA......?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jan 28, 2013 - 07:01am PT
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Damn!!!!
Wow!!!!!
That's all I can say.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 28, 2013 - 07:05am PT
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YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!
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coz
Gym climber
Belmont
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:00am PT
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Great Job, we never saw anything like that kind of weather. Probably why I never went back.
Oh, BTW, Torres del Paine, is located in a long country known as Chile, not Argentina.
Oh yea the Mexican foods not so bad either, LOL....
Great job and living the dream!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:04am PT
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holy radness!!!! So inspiring!!!
Wow, sucks about the dagger to the ledge but the lemonade of it all is thank goodness your belayer wasn't hangin' out there.
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:48am PT
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Total radness you two!! That sounds like a crazy adventure!
Glad that you weren't actually in the Portaledge when that dagger-torpedo sliced your ledge... Good to hear you two realized and accomplished what you wen't down there to do.
Keep us all updated with pics and info etc - keep gettin after it!!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:48am PT
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Good job. Rationing food is always fun
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ruppell
climber
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Jan 28, 2013 - 10:46am PT
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Proud.
Stay on your game down there bro. And stop dropping stuff on your haul bags and ledge.
Matt
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 28, 2013 - 10:37am PT
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What a couple of pussies, using a portaledge for a grade VI in patagonia. I'd a gone in my flip-flops and hawaiian short.
Spoken with extreme jealousy (:
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jan 28, 2013 - 10:51am PT
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Huh???? crypee!!!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
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The repair kit! Two rolls of duct tape, silicone to seam seal, two jars of contact cement, and a rubber ducky suit for material. And some replacement tent poles from the local hostel... Erratic Rock Hostel. A meter of rubber hose to protect the ropes and a meter of chain to cut every other link for rap-rings.
Now we need a hack-saw or bolt cutter!
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krahmes
Social climber
Stumptown
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Jan 28, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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Great route. The pictures, video, and write up were hoot. This caught my eye:
Quitting mid-route from frustration and then later choosing to continue means...
Seems like you two were tested up there. Way good job.
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Great news you guys, Hope the weather stays on your side.
You look wise beyond your years in that photo, ok I meant tired!
Big Party when you get home! WOOT!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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way to frikkin go down there! livin the high life!enjoy!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
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What a great looking adventure. This is why I check in with the taco. Still gettin too. Bad Ass
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slayton
Trad climber
Here and There
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Jan 28, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
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Sounds EPIC!! Way to persevere. Looking forward to perusing your future exploits from the comfort of my home.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 28, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
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Can we assume that after a send like that, all sorts of people are stepping up to help you re-equip?
When I said this upthread I was thinking more along the lines of sponsors like BD, NF, MTN hardear, whoever. This is the kind of moment when companies like that should step up.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 28, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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way to go, you guys....par-tay!..........
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:21am PT
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Alright we got the repair kit squared away and two months of food takin' care of. Take note of the 10 sticks of salami in the corner... Oh yeahhhhh.
Well, this is our last day in Puerta Natales, printing topos and finally sitting on the playa will be taking place. Thanks guys for all the support.
Next is El Central... You know the big one! We are looking at two route, Magico de este and Regalo de Mwona... Both old aid lines. We will see how this plan works out, but those mofos are steep!
Chow
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:26am PT
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Good Morning Myles.
"chow" is what you do to the salami and
"ciao" bella means goodby in Italian
My best to Amy please!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:58am PT
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Italian huh.... Magico Este is an Italian route. You wanna see what you could did up on that for me?
We have topos but they are all pretty spotty.
Amy is very happy to see you show up here with your words... Always making us smile buddy.
Alright gotta run and make photo copies!
Edit: hey also could you tell Russ we are going to need some double-ply giant ass bags when we get back.... And a parachute.
Ruppel.... Buddy what's groin' on? well be back home for the heckling!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Jan 29, 2013 - 05:54am PT
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"Chow", indeed. That's some sweet shots on a Grand Wall.
Nicely done, you two. Looks like you got lucky with "the Dagger".
TFPU, you Monkeys.
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 29, 2013 - 06:01am PT
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I have never understood TFPU.? I really gotta go make copies... Amy will be pissed!
Chow! Or as I really like saying.... Laters!
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:22am PT
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TFPU
Thanks For Posting Up is an ekat-ism
3. Magico Este A3 6b, 1000 m, Mauricio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi, Ermano Salvaterra, October 1986, the team spent ten days on the climb with eight bivouacs
Edit:Image and info from climbmore.com
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,74,0,1,mountains.html
On the Central Tower of Paine part of a strong 8 man Spanish team began a new line between Magico Este and Belena de los Vientos, completeing 500m of this 1000m wall with only 3 of the 15 pitches being climbed free (VII / VII A3)
above from article ... alpine journal.org.uk
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:08am PT
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Way to go Myles !
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:51am PT
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After watching the video I cant help but think how fortunate you are to be surrounded by that smile and laughter .
And .... Oh Oh Oh sh#t gotta go we have a problem.
When you hold up that dagger it looks Like a sport fan #1 sponge glove.
Begs the question....Kevlar flys?
Way to go Myles and Amy!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 29, 2013 - 08:17am PT
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What a great trip so far. Great teamwork going on there.
Thanks for sharing your adventure with us. Have fun on your next route.
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nopantsben
climber
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Jan 29, 2013 - 08:51am PT
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wow, congrats!! nice style..
good luck with what's next.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:31am PT
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Really Fine Job.
Thanks For Posting Up....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:40am PT
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Awesome!
Get some!!!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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Well, we just got two horses for the two hundred pounds of food we are bringing for the next two months. The bag on the back is full of repair supplies and the 5 hr hike is about to begin. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the support and psyched. The Central Tower is the objective for the next month and the prayer flags are flyin'... Lets hope the weather holds out again.
We will talk to guys in a month....keep it real!
Ciao( that's for you Greg and thanks for the help buddy)
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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Before I forget.... The topo!
It is a little rough, but we'll clean it up later.
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ruppell
climber
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Jan 30, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Nice Myles. That thing looks sick.
Tell Amy Emma and I say.
Now start that hike and send.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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A message from Phil!
"Banditos -
You make Fillepe Proud
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Chris O
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 24, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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this is so awesome you guys are badass!! super inspiring!
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Neil Chelton
climber
Bouldering your girlfriend
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Feb 28, 2013 - 02:20am PT
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Congrats on the ascent, i'm glad to hear you escaped unscathed from the mighty Paine. I look forward to hearing about the next climb.
I saw a full pitch of rock fall off the north tower last year, pretty close to your line of ascent. Dangerous place. Be safe.
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