Trip Report
F.A. Plate Tectonics VI, 5.12 C1 East Face of the North Tower of Paine
Sunday January 27, 2013 10:13pm
http://www.roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/

15 days on the wall. 3000ft tall, 21 pitches. More to come. 6ft of C1... It will go free. The summit was more important. Portaledge destroyed. We planed for 12 days, those 3 extra days were rough. Thank god the bags didn't find a cravase! Ropes are dusted! We can't remember the date we started and finished. Two month left... Two Towers to go!

Here is the BLOG UPDATE.... It is a really nice read by Amy, make sure to check it out! Lots of pictures as I know you all like.

http://roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/2013/01/plate-tectonics-vi-512-c1-east-face-of.html?m=1

East Face of the North Tower of Paine
East Face of the North Tower of Paine
Credit: Myles Moser

The Giants
The Giants
Credit: Myles Moser

The Gateway Pitch... Stacked 5.11 and 5.12, four bolts 3 pitons
The Gateway Pitch... Stacked 5.11 and 5.12, four bolts 3 pitons
Credit: Myles Moser

Summit in a white-out
Summit in a white-out
Credit: Myles Moser



Credit: Myles Moser

DID YOU LOOK AT THE BLOG???

http://roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/2013/01/plate-tectonics-vi-512-c1-east-face-of.html?m=1


  Trip Report Views: 5,005
Myles Moser
About the Author
Myles Moser is a climber from Lone Pine, Ca.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
  Jan 27, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
Awesome name for a route....can't wait to read the TR
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Jan 27, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
Yeah ! and more pictures !
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jan 27, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!! It *always* takes longer than you think!

Nice send!

Six feet? Who cares!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Jan 27, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Wow looks rad. All that training round the portal paying off. Keep the psych an keep sendin!! Look forward to more,..
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Jan 29, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Bahhhhh! Daniel want more!

Congratulations on the success, and TFGMHU (thanks for getting my hopes up).

Looking forward to the rest of the story, great job!



Edit: Those pics on the blog are awesome!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
  Jan 27, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Congrats and thanks for the word. I knew that if you two got the right break in the weather we'd be hearing some wild news. Good one!!

Can we assume that after a send like that, all sorts of people are stepping up to help you re-equip?
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 27, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
Chris we are heading for the hardware store tomorrow for a couple tubes of bathroom caulking, lots of glue, enough duct tape to tape the ledge to the wall... If we have to. A rubber ducky suit for material, and replacement carbon tent poles, you know the Walmart ones... A buck a pole, not bad! Oh and a spool of thread, not just for the fly... we loss some weight up there!

We also found a place that sells boat rope! And they got lots of it!

Pete.... I can live with six feet.


Funny video comin'.

Chow!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 28, 2013 - 12:35am PT
Great stuff!

While you freeze, I shall enjoy your Lone Pine sunshine in your stead!

:)

Cheers,
M
crøtch

climber
  Jan 28, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Woooooooohhoooooo. You guys rock. I can't imagine how I'd feel with a hole like that sitting in my tent at Campamento Japones. Must have been nuts to be on the wall with that much "ventilation".
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Jan 28, 2013 - 12:43am PT
Go Myles and Amy!! So happy for you guys.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Nice! Congrats! I remember staring at that thing two years ago and
thinking, "Now there's some quality choss!"
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:19am PT
Lovin' that video. Glad it's just a hole in your ledge.

Hats off to a fine adventure.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
Awesome to hear about you guys killing it out there in S. America! Good luck on other towers and get home safe!
Regan

Big Wall climber
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:55am PT
Awesome climb. Congrats!!!
More photos, stories and more walls please...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Jan 28, 2013 - 02:08am PT
Holy SuperCrushin' Batman!
CalicoJack

climber
CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 02:25am PT
Damn!!!!!!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Jan 28, 2013 - 07:18am PT
YEAH BABY!!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 28, 2013 - 08:45am PT
Oh Yeah! Way to branch into the further range in adventure style!!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Jan 28, 2013 - 08:49am PT
We can't remember the date we started and finished. Two month left... Two Towers to go!

Pretty incredible.

Great summit shot.

~peace
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jan 28, 2013 - 09:07am PT
SWEET SEND
Sorry about your ledge, glad no one was home when the axe fell.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Jan 28, 2013 - 09:45am PT
There's climbing outside of CA......?

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jan 28, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Damn!!!!

Wow!!!!!

That's all I can say.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jan 28, 2013 - 10:05am PT
YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:04am PT
holy radness!!!! So inspiring!!!

Wow, sucks about the dagger to the ledge but the lemonade of it all is thank goodness your belayer wasn't hangin' out there.
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Total radness you two!! That sounds like a crazy adventure!

Glad that you weren't actually in the Portaledge when that dagger-torpedo sliced your ledge... Good to hear you two realized and accomplished what you wen't down there to do.

Keep us all updated with pics and info etc - keep gettin after it!!
10b4me

climber
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:48am PT
Good job. Rationing food is always fun
ruppell

climber
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Proud.
Stay on your game down there bro. And stop dropping stuff on your haul bags and ledge.

Matt
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
What a couple of pussies, using a portaledge for a grade VI in patagonia. I'd a gone in my flip-flops and hawaiian short.

Spoken with extreme jealousy (:
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
So, so sweet.



What a team you two make. Respect!
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
  Jan 28, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
Huh???? crypee!!!

Credit: Myles Moser
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Credit: Myles Moser

The repair kit! Two rolls of duct tape, silicone to seam seal, two jars of contact cement, and a rubber ducky suit for material. And some replacement tent poles from the local hostel... Erratic Rock Hostel. A meter of rubber hose to protect the ropes and a meter of chain to cut every other link for rap-rings.

Now we need a hack-saw or bolt cutter!
krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
  Jan 28, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
Great route. The pictures, video, and write up were hoot. This caught my eye:

Quitting mid-route from frustration and then later choosing to continue means...

Seems like you two were tested up there. Way good job.
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:12pm PT


Great news you guys, Hope the weather stays on your side.

You look wise beyond your years in that photo, ok I meant tired!

Big Party when you get home! WOOT!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
way to frikkin go down there! livin the high life!enjoy!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
What a great looking adventure. This is why I check in with the taco. Still gettin too. Bad Ass
slayton

Trad climber
Here and There
  Jan 28, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
Sounds EPIC!! Way to persevere. Looking forward to perusing your future exploits from the comfort of my home.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
  Jan 29, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Can we assume that after a send like that, all sorts of people are stepping up to help you re-equip?

When I said this upthread I was thinking more along the lines of sponsors like BD, NF, MTN hardear, whoever. This is the kind of moment when companies like that should step up.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Jan 29, 2013 - 02:11am PT
way to go, you guys....par-tay!..........
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2013 - 08:21am PT
Two moth supply
Two moth supply
Credit: Myles Moser

Alright we got the repair kit squared away and two months of food takin' care of. Take note of the 10 sticks of salami in the corner... Oh yeahhhhh.

Well, this is our last day in Puerta Natales, printing topos and finally sitting on the playa will be taking place. Thanks guys for all the support.

Next is El Central... You know the big one! We are looking at two route, Magico de este and Regalo de Mwona... Both old aid lines. We will see how this plan works out, but those mofos are steep!

Chow
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Jan 29, 2013 - 08:26am PT


Good Morning Myles.


"chow" is what you do to the salami and

"ciao" bella means goodby in Italian


My best to Amy please!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2013 - 08:58am PT
Italian huh.... Magico Este is an Italian route. You wanna see what you could did up on that for me?

We have topos but they are all pretty spotty.

Amy is very happy to see you show up here with your words... Always making us smile buddy.

Alright gotta run and make photo copies!

Edit: hey also could you tell Russ we are going to need some double-ply giant ass bags when we get back.... And a parachute.

Ruppel.... Buddy what's groin' on? well be back home for the heckling!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jan 29, 2013 - 08:54am PT
"Chow", indeed. That's some sweet shots on a Grand Wall.
Nicely done, you two. Looks like you got lucky with "the Dagger".
TFPU, you Monkeys.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2013 - 09:01am PT
I have never understood TFPU.? I really gotta go make copies... Amy will be pissed!

Chow! Or as I really like saying.... Laters!
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Jan 29, 2013 - 10:22am PT
TFPU


Thanks For Posting Up is an ekat-ism



3. Magico Este A3 6b, 1000 m, Mauricio Giarolli, Elio Orlandi, Ermano Salvaterra, October 1986, the team spent ten days on the climb with eight bivouacs

#3 Magico Estes
#3 Magico Estes
Credit: Fish Finder


Edit:Image and info from climbmore.com






http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,74,0,1,mountains.html

On the Central Tower of Paine part of a strong 8 man Spanish team began a new line between Magico Este and Belena de los Vientos, completeing 500m of this 1000m wall with only 3 of the 15 pitches being climbed free (VII / VII A3)

above from article ... alpine journal.org.uk
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Jan 29, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Way to go Myles !
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Jan 29, 2013 - 10:51am PT
After watching the video I cant help but think how fortunate you are to be surrounded by that smile and laughter .




And .... Oh Oh Oh sh#t gotta go we have a problem.

When you hold up that dagger it looks Like a sport fan #1 sponge glove.

Begs the question....Kevlar flys?


Way to go Myles and Amy!
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
  Jan 29, 2013 - 11:17am PT
What a great trip so far. Great teamwork going on there.

Thanks for sharing your adventure with us. Have fun on your next route.
nopantsben

climber
europe
  Jan 29, 2013 - 11:51am PT
wow, congrats!! nice style..
good luck with what's next.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Jan 29, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
Really Fine Job.

Thanks For Posting Up....

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jan 29, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
Awesome!

Get some!!!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Well, we just got two horses for the two hundred pounds of food we are bringing for the next two months. The bag on the back is full of repair supplies and the 5 hr hike is about to begin. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the support and psyched. The Central Tower is the objective for the next month and the prayer flags are flyin'... Lets hope the weather holds out again.

We will talk to guys in a month....keep it real!

Ciao( that's for you Greg and thanks for the help buddy)




Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jan 30, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
Credit: Myles Moser
Before I forget.... The topo!

It is a little rough, but we'll clean it up later.
ruppell

climber
  Jan 30, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Nice Myles. That thing looks sick.
Tell Amy Emma and I say.
Now start that hike and send.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
  Feb 1, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
A message from Phil!

"Banditos -

You make Fillepe Proud
Chris O

Trad climber
Lone Pine, CA
  Feb 24, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
this is so awesome you guys are badass!! super inspiring!
Neil Chelton

climber
Bouldering your girlfriend
  Feb 28, 2013 - 05:20am PT
Congrats on the ascent, i'm glad to hear you escaped unscathed from the mighty Paine. I look forward to hearing about the next climb.

I saw a full pitch of rock fall off the north tower last year, pretty close to your line of ascent. Dangerous place. Be safe.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Jun 20, 2013 - 12:00am PT
Well gotta go with a shamless Bump.
Celtics1217

climber
Newfoundland
  Jun 20, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
Wicked! Thanks for the great read and the wonderful photos :)

Keep Crushin!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jun 20, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
most excellent photographs, i enjoyed thoroughly.
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
  Jun 20, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Myles! It was great to read Amy's TR after hearing about the trip in-person at the portal. Have a great summer.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jun 20, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Cool!
saa

Social climber
sadly, sitting on a chair with a beer
  Jun 20, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Oh gosh. A june posting for an F A on Paine.
Scary. Who would climb there in June?!?!
But, mmmmmm. It feels better. It was a january post.

GDavis:
Paine IS in California. It s just a little more south than San Diego.
Bridwell has his summer tent around there. ;-). You haveńt
Heard the sheep story yet?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jun 21, 2013 - 04:07pm PT
Adventure at it's grandest!!
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 16, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
BBST!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
Always silly when you gotta move crap with your own trip report.....

Bump!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Dec 1, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Awesome
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Dec 26, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
I want to bump this because it is awesome
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