Trip Report
Excalibur, Less Talk, More Action
Saturday July 23, 2011 6:55pm
Here is our story, in pictures (very slightly annotated).
Special Thanks to Tom Kasper and his Valley Giants, Moses Theron and his Moses Tomahawks and Werner Braun, for piton sawing, rope lending and moral support.

Wookie helps rack.

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Pitch 5 HB C2

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Pitch 6 crux EE A4-

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A pirate

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Pitch 9 HB C1 wide with freeclimbing finish (vs A3 aid line)

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Pitch 10 HB C1 wide(three pics of this cool spot)

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Some of our cool stuff

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Pitch 11 EE A2

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Pitch 12 HB to Guinevere's Bed A3(Night 2)

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Pitch 13 EE C1

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The same pirate, again, look close

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After Pitch 14 HB A3 "grassy:

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Pitch 15 EE C1 (slept at top Night 3)

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Pitch 16 HB C2

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Pitch 17 HB 5.8 no pro and C1

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Chillin before second crux

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Pitch 18 Second Crux EE A3

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Morning at Belay 20

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Pitch 21 EE C1

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Pitch 22 HB A3

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Pitch 25 HB C1

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Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivy

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Pitch 26 EE A2+

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Almost done...

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Guidebook says "great bivy" at topout. Yeah-its the Salathe bivy! Surprise and a good nights sleep and then down. 5 nights on wall.

  Trip Report Views: 5,473
hollyclimber
About the Author
Excalibur was Holly Beck's 25th El Cap route and 34th ascent. For partner Erik Eriksson it was 53 and 55. Climb dates: Fix free first 4 on July 6, 2011, climb July 11-16 2011.

Comments
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
good TR, would like to get on that next season
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:11pm PT

Awesome, Holly, Thanks for sharin'!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
It was cool to have some neighbors on that side of the wall. GREAT JOB, Holly and Erik. Sorry about the loud screaming coming from the Great Slab... all hell was breaking loose. LOL
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
No Worries! Its a battlefield up there at time! Hugs,HB
freerider

climber
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
Nice! Thanks again for lending the gumbies gear - I would've liked to use it more than once, but it was not to be.
cheers!

ps.i gave it to dave t, just in case i would not see you before you leave.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Wyoming
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:23pm PT
Really strong imagery and what an insanely beautiful route, Holly. I love that you have really good shots of yourself and partner. So often we don't even get a clue what the climbers really look like. Nice Nice and thanks tons. Your partner is unnamed...and oh, a better shot of Wookie also.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:23pm PT
Some of the best photography I've seen in any trip report.
Really motivating to see your efforts.
Excellent TR!
Highlife

Trad climber
California
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
Holly, you definitly look like you mean buisness in you "after pitch 14" pic. Good job again!
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
Partner is Erik Eriksson.
This is Wookie! Right after fixing we headed to Ventura for the dog show (she won)
Chillin at Motel 6 - a dogs favorite out of town digs.
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
Nice! Always wanted to do that route.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
Really nice TR, thanks! Our dogs love motel 6 as well.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 23, 2011 - 07:48pm PT
Nice pics, love the Wyyyde!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Jul 23, 2011 - 10:44pm PT
I met Holly on my way down from my first ZM attempt this spring and was surprised at how tiny she is! I was expecting a burley big wall mama! I surmised that there must be a lot of power tucked into that little frame!

Good work, Holly! You too EE!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Jul 23, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
Nice job Holly!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jul 23, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
Bump!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 24, 2011 - 12:11am PT
25th and 53rd routes - nice job.

I loved Exacalibur, particularly the Round Table and Frosty's Claustrophobic Bivi.

There is a giant cave partway up that you could aid up into, and be dry in even the most savage storm.

Tom started making his Valley Giants for our ascent of Excalibur, and here they are again. Superb cams, those.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Jul 24, 2011 - 03:41am PT
love the picture's.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 24, 2011 - 08:59am PT
Right on, Holly! I can dig it.
TFPU!!!

That's a huge dog.
namascar

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
  Jul 24, 2011 - 11:07am PT
Do you have a photo of the Round Table?
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2011 - 11:43am PT
I don't have any Roundtable pics. Its on the Freerider so other users out there must have some that they could post up?
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 24, 2011 - 11:49am PT
You might consider a post to the Bigwall board, Holly.
The small fire folk love this stuff. It'll keep it from getting lost in the din, too.
Cheers!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 24, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
You guys look amazingly bundled for a July El Cap wall! Was it really that cold up there?

Man, I climbed the whole A.O. Wall in a pair of shorts last month, it was so warm. Lucky you guys for cool summer weather!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jul 24, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
Infrickingcredible!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Jul 24, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
Thanks Holly, and Erik - a fine report!
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
  Jul 24, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
Great trip report! As a second note I notice that Erik is attached only by what looks like a Yates adjustable daisy? I have a friend here in town who has spent some time working with Yosar and noted that while there they recorded some fatalaties due to failures in the Yates adjustables. Maybe there is some documenation on this or extra information?
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 24, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
Nice job.
ec

climber
ca
  Jul 24, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Nice! Good to see ya out there still Erik!

 ec
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 24, 2011 - 08:05pm PT
Prez - Yates adjustable daisies are the bomb for climbing, but they are really nothing more than a strap and a buckle. They are no substitute for being tied into a rope or full-strength sling, because if you take a hard fall onto them - or any other adjustable daisy like Metolius or Fish - they will break.

Be very very careful when crawling around on the belay attached by nothing else. If you factor 2 onto one, it will break.

That being said, I do it all the time. However I have taken to climbing with a "third arm" - a third adjustable daisy so that I can always be attached with two. This is good if you're not tied in, or while climbing hard aid and testing from tenuous gear.

I would like to hear of the YOSAR stories, as it is certainly pilot error. And I have never heard of such failures.

Also, which photo do you mean?
Zander

climber
  Jul 24, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
Great pics Holly!
Thanks for posting.
Zander
D.Eubanks

Big Wall climber
  Jul 24, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
It's nice to see pics of a route that doesn't get done much.

Thanks Holly.
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 25, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
Erik and I were always tied in, never just on one daisy. Are you talking about "morning at belay 20"? Our lead line is green. You can see his tie in at his belay loop. Green mammut supersafe. I am not aware of any fatalities related to a Yates Daisy. Only one whipper from the Sheep Ranch due to a failure of a Metolius Daisy, no YOSAR rescue involved (but a broken ankle to Pete yes).

Perhaps you are thinking of the Daisy Chain strength information presented by Rigging for Rescue in their classes, which we in YOSAR often participate in and which they often hold in Yosemite. Their testing shows a very low breaking strength for all daisy chains.

http://www.riggingforrescue.com/files/Download/Rigging%20for%20Rescue%20-%20Daisy%20Chains%20-%202005.pdf

That is why you are most likely to see YOSAR folks using a purcell prussik as a personal anchor when free climbing, not a daisy chain. Aid climbing requires the use of daisy chains and we try not to shock load them!

HB
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
  Jul 25, 2011 - 11:50am PT
Incredible work by a pair of incredible climbers! Wow. I wish your TR had more narration. Us aspiring big wall climbers drool over the backstory of hard routes we can only dream of. Thanks for sharing the photos. Amazing!

dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
  Jul 24, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
Nice work Holly! Pretty Dog, How old is she? She looks the real proud type in the pic.


Cheers DT.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Jul 24, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
Awesome TR Holly, and great shots. Always wanted to do that route ..... too many routes to do, too little time.

Hi to Erik!!!!

Paul
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Jul 25, 2011 - 01:33am PT
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing.
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 25, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Hi Dogtown- My doggy is 10 months in that picture exactly. Still growing. So she alternates between regal and silly puppy.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jul 25, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Nice job Holly and EE!

Looks Thuglike in those big corners.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jul 26, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
Very cool. You are an inspiration Holly.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
  Nov 23, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
Bump for beta begging.

Can you share thought on how accurate the ST recommened rack for pins, heads, and such? Any other rack beta beyond heaps of big cams?
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Nov 23, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
Great photos !!

McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
  Nov 23, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
Beautiful
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Nov 23, 2015 - 10:02pm PT
Bump for beta begging.

Take the dawg. He can rope gun all the pitches.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Nov 24, 2015 - 03:37am PT
Nice TR, the rock up there is very interesting. What happened to get the skint nose?
7SacredPools

Trad climber
Ontario, Canada
  Nov 24, 2015 - 04:52am PT
Terrific pics. thanks for sharing!
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Nov 24, 2015 - 06:33am PT
Agree with everyone, great pictures. Pretty funny gaffing Erik Eriksson on his tie-in.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Nov 24, 2015 - 08:27am PT
You know what I like, besides the cool route photos? I like seeing all of that grass and plant life still there after many ascents. I always look for that on pics of routes that I have done or have seen older photos of.

Climbers do a lot of damage to the cliff ecosystem, but wall climbers seem to keep it to a minimum. Probably because they don't need to clean every inch, like free and sport climbers do.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 24, 2015 - 10:24am PT
Thanks for the bumps. What a superb set of pictures and TR in general.

John
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 24, 2015 - 01:49pm PT
WOOT!

Throw that Dodgers hat in a trash bin! Aside from that a great report! :)
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