Triple Direct C2 5.8

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
El Capitan Double Bill: Virginia & Triple Direct
Thursday August 13, 2015 9:08am
http://www.ashtond6.blogspot.com

Hey Supertopo users, hope you don't mind me linking to my blog.... detailed report in there! I don't want to upload all those pics again!

We did Virginia, then The Triple Direct

Credit: ashtond6
Credit: ashtond6

  Trip Report Views: 4,051
ashtond6
About the Author
ashtond6 is a climber from Sheffield, UK.

Comments
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Aug 13, 2015 - 11:13am PT
Looks like a bit exposed. BBST
Erik Sloan

Big Wall climber
Yosemite Big Wall
  Aug 13, 2015 - 11:49am PT
What happened with that pulley?

Woot Woot!
Erik
Yosemitebigwall.com
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 13, 2015 - 11:58am PT
Nice write up. Congrats and way to stick it out!

Like Eric said....What about that pulley?! What happened?




Scott
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 13, 2015 - 12:10pm PT
Thanks guys!
(nice to meet you Erik!)

I knew this would be a talking point on here and debated not putting it in

Long story short, we rigged our chongo set up with some 2mm chord to keep it all together (so you could just clip it up at anchors)

I set up the chongo, double checked it all and shouted ready to haul.

I had not put the traxion through the masterpoint so when weight came on it snapped open.... Saved by the backup

Absolute amateur mistake but hope it may help someone else! we tried to make things safer and quicker, but in fact complicated it from our 'norm'. So on a brief check of the chongo rigging, everything was connected and looked like it normally would
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 13, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
Needless to say I sh#t myself...
Oh the joy when I realised I was backed up with the lower ascender :)
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 13, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
Whoah. Scary. It can happen to any of us at any time man, way to BACK UP! Thanks for the insight. Keep sending and posting!!

Scott
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Aug 13, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
TFPU
aco

Big Wall climber
zadar croatia
  Aug 16, 2015 - 10:32am PT
Hello I have a couple of question about Triple direct.I will be there in
30.08.2015 until 09.09.2015.
can enybody say to me is it there ancors and traverse have a
Secured with spits.Best to wear on rock climbing shoe or something alse

Every sugestion is welcome because I will come all the way from
Croatia
Cheers
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 16, 2015 - 03:34pm PT

We wore approach shoes for most, you'd need both shoe types
All belays have at least 2 bolts
The traverses are pins and bolts, I wore approach shoes but this made the 5.9 at the end quite scary
aco

Big Wall climber
zadar croatia
  Aug 17, 2015 - 08:09am PT
TENK YOU A LOT ON QUICK ANSWER
if I understand you every belay from down to end of rout are bolted with few bolts.Or only a difficult one ?
Did you recommend to me to take a portalage ?
Enething what you are sugestion is fine I need many information.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
  Aug 17, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
Very cool and thanks for sending the pics from above Jonny! We wondered what went wrong with your haul rig that day - sounded scary but we were glad to see you got it sorted out okay :-) Cheers!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 17, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
Good on ya both!

Y'all come back, now.
BryanE

climber
Minnesota
  Aug 17, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
Great report man, thanks for posting. So I have zero big wall experience, can anybody fill me in on what would have happened had the pulley not been backed-up?
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 18, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
I'd take a portaledge, was very busy once we hit camp IV (one party on every pitch to the top). Bolts on every pitch, happy to answer any more questions!

BryanE,
If the pulley wasn't backed up... it would PROBABLY be okay since the bags were around 40m below me and we had a dynamic 60m line... 100kg load falling 20m on a bouncy line.

If they were near me, and the pulley failed, on a static line. A 100kg bag falling 50m could be disastrous - possibly rip the belays.

A few were killed on the nose some years ago, but the bolts were apparently already cracked when the bags were dropped

Hope that makes sense!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Aug 19, 2015 - 06:43am PT
Did you ask the author of that El Cap photo (me) if you could use it for your blog?
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 19, 2015 - 09:18am PT
Which photo? The big first one I took last fall (I thought)
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 19, 2015 - 09:27am PT
See it now, my apologies- I'll take it down
aco

Big Wall climber
zadar croatia
  Aug 23, 2015 - 07:23am PT
Hello ashtond6,do you think that s necessary to have 2 sets of aliens for triple direct. Could we pass with 3 sets of BD camalots and a couple of aliens?? Are offset nuts crucial?? Which number is the largest cam we need?
Thank you
ashtond6

climber
Sheffield, UK
Author's Reply  Aug 25, 2015 - 04:14am PT
we took lots of cams, a mixture of C3s, C4s, Totems, offsets, mastercams

3 ea from 0.3" - 2.5"
2 ea 3.5"
2 ea 5" (no 5 BD)

with back cleaning you could probably take less

2 sets of micro cams (1 regular, 1 offset)
then offset normal wires
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El Capitan - Triple Direct C2 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Triple Direct is route number 9.
Photo: Tom Frost
Other Routes on El Capitan
El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Nose, 5.14a or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
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The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
El Capitan - Freerider 5.12D - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Freerider, 5.12D
El Capitan
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Salathe Wall, 5.13b or 5.9 C2
El Capitan
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Zodiac, A2 5.7
El Capitan
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Lurking Fear, C2F 5.7
El Capitan
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
More routes on El Capitan