Trip Report
Dolomites and Wilder Kaiser
Wednesday November 17, 2010 9:38pm
My first TR here, I suppose its best to do it in parts. Here is part 1 of my 2010 summer vacation

Credit: Hoser

Last winter my work asked me to work 18 hours a day for the duration of the Olympic games, I agreed under one condition; that I get all my overtime pay in time off.

At the end of the games, including my regular vacation time, I managed to accrue two entire months of paid leave. And even though I had no plans I quickly booked off the entire summer before my bosses had a chance to change their minds.

I knew I wanted to go back to the Dolomites, I have made two trips prior and I have fallen in love with the range. The rock, the length of the routes, no glaciers to deal with, no crowds, the history and the amazing food all make for me the ideal mountain playground.

Immediately after hearing of my vacation windfall one of my best friends who had climbed in the Dolo's with me before commited 10 days of his vaction time for an adventure to the Brenta range.

My girlfriend wanted in as well so I decided to take 10 days and with her go visit her Turkish parents at their home in Southern Turkey.

After that I couldnt believe my luck, my buddy Dom who recently had a baby magically managed to pilfer 10 days away from work and family for another grand motorcycle trip. Although not as grand as the [url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/blancato/sets/72157607739656647/detail/]Morrocan trip[/url], this time we rode from his house in Spain to the beginning of the Alps in France and camped our way across 3500 km of famous passes until their end in Slovenia.

I still wasnt done, over the last couple years I managed to keep in touch with a cascadeclimber and flickr user who had moved to Munich around 5 years ago. He had started to climb in the Dolomites and so his TR's and photos kept us connected. Unbelievably without ever meeting in person he agreed to invest 10 days of his vacation time with me. The final piece of the plan had finally come together and Mike and I made plans to meet first with a start in the Wilder Kaiser of Austria and then move to Italy.

Mike turned out to be an awesome dude, we clicked right away and it was a good thing because the warm up route Mike chose was the 600m Westwand of the Totenkirchl 25 pitches VI+



This route turned out to be everything you could ask for, loads of adventure excellent rock, spectacular views and pushed both Mike and I to our limits.




The route gave us both a healthy dose of kick ass but the fact that we were still laughing set my mind at ease and I looked forward to the rest of the trip. Mike introduced me to Spetzi at the hut and the next day we drove off to Italy.


Forecast for afternoon thunderstorms made us choose a smaller route but still an amazing line. We decided to try an run up the South arete of the Tofana Di Rozes V 14 pitches, the smaller arete on the right



Once again the setting and the line were spectacular!




We made the summit and as promised the afternoon thunderstorms set in and the next day we drove off towards the Pala region





The plan is to link the 15 pitch V NW ridge of Pala Del Rifugio to the 9 pitch VI- Sasso D'ortiga, the obvious ridge line from left to right in the photo.




The route turns out to be quite fun, some grass here and there takes away from the line but all in all a very nice route.



Unfortunately the weather doesnt hold and after climbing the Pala we turn down the Sass in favour of a dry walk off.



We both wanted something a lot bigger and more commiting, but it was also getting near the end for Mike and I didnt want him to leave me in some far away place. So we made plans to head over and try the Comici on the Cima Grande. I had already climbed the Cima Grande via the Dulfer but obviously the North face is THE line.



Knowing it was a popular route, belonging to the 6 great North faces, we made plans to get up early and get on this thing. The day started poorly when we were overtook on the approach trail by two parties racing each other to the start. Mike and I both hate crowds and if we were not already at the start I am sure we would have turned around, instead we found this at 5 am on the first pitches. 8 or more parties all strung out over the place.



So we packed up walked around the corner and set our eyes on the other Comici route, The Yellow Edge. The line is obvious, straight up the arete at VI 14 pitches. IF you have ever climbed limestone you know the yellow stuff can be much harder to climb. We did not find one other person on the route



As promised the route is steep and sustained! The hut below offered amazing polenta



I drew the crux pitch and it turned out to be pretty reasonable yellow rock. I would do this route again!

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The next day we decided to take it easy and just blast up the NW ridge of the Paternkofel, IV 7 pitches. You can just make out some climbers near the top.



A very famous mountain top during the war, it was a pretty neat place to visit. You can just make out some barb wire in front of me on the ridge. Some fierce fighting happened on this summit.



So Mike now had to decide what to do, extend the vacation so we can have a go at the Cassin on the Cima Ovest or head back to the fam. I didnt want him to go but when we woke up to rain and his kids were missing him Mike decided the trip was coming to an end. I was not too stoked to see him and my ride leave but I was getting pretty tired as well. So I wished Mike safe travels and I set my eyes on the Cadenspitzen range as a place I could go to solo and wait out 5 days till Toby showed up.

The range in the distance looked too good to not go check out so I packed my now massive amount of gear out of Mikes car including both ropes and the rack and got set to leave the next morning.



The trail over there was amazing, you can just make it out as it crosses the face about half way down the face. The Tre Cime in the distance



This place tunred out to be a very cozy place to spend a few nights, the hut lady made sure I was well taken care of

Rifugio Fondo Savio


Hiking around here was pretty awesome, they dont make trails like this back home.



I even tried my very first Via Feratta



After 3 days I decided it was probably a good idea to head into town and top up my supplies do some laundy and rest up for Toby. I knew he would come with guns blazin and I wanted to make sure I was rested. So I took off for Trento, at first I thought one night would be enough but after a shower in a air conditioned room I was more than happy to spend a second night.

Mike and I polished off 73 pitches and 5 peaks

Not sure if I can fit my whole trip in my TR here, so maybe its best to break this thing into parts.

Here is my slide show of all my photos for this part of the trip

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blancato/sets/72157624820105852/show

Here they are individually

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blancato/sets/72157624820105852/detail

  Trip Report Views: 3,381
Hoser
About the Author
Hoser is a climber from Canada

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
Awesome Jesse, I've always wanted to climb in the Dolomites, did a little hiking in them 15 years ago when I was but a young man!
all in jim

climber
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
Amazing. Thanks for posting that!
TRo

climber
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Hi Hoser,

Just got back from my second 1 month stint in Arco. Going back next year. Plenty of everything there and I envy your mt. adventures. If you need a partner there next year...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Nov 17, 2010 - 10:41pm PT
Awesome Hose. Great photos; some of them are so archetypal.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
Fantastico!
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
Really cool!
max factor

Trad climber
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:30pm PT
AWESOME! Thanks so much for posting this TR.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Nov 17, 2010 - 11:55pm PT
Beautiful!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 18, 2010 - 12:25am PT
Very nice TR
go-B

climber
Cling to what is good!
  Nov 18, 2010 - 12:56am PT
Dynamite!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 18, 2010 - 01:43am PT
Molto dolce! Great pics! Mille grazie ya hoser!
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Nov 18, 2010 - 09:17am PT
Nice shots !
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 18, 2010 - 09:45am PT
Wow Hoser,

What a great TR!

Excellent descriptions and beautiful photos too. You guys were busy! Makes me feel weak......

I have wanted to climb there since I was a kid, still haven't made it...*sigh*
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Nov 18, 2010 - 10:12am PT
WOW, spectacular!!! Next year for me!!! thanks for sharing.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 18, 2010 - 10:26am PT
Really good TR. Would love to get to the Dolomites when weather was reasonable- 0 for 2 so far.
Jeremy

climber
  Nov 18, 2010 - 10:37am PT
WICKED!!!!!!!!!!!!

MUST GO!!!

When we going Donini? Bruce?

I have 45 Peckers, a semi decent rope, and a 12 pack!

LET'S ROLL!!!

Thanks for the TR man! That is some SWEET SHIZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jeremy
Denise Umstot

climber
Princess of the El Cap Bridge!
  Nov 18, 2010 - 11:05am PT
Amazing photos to go along with an amazing trip! Thanks for the share.
couchmaster

climber
  Nov 18, 2010 - 11:17am PT
Love this stuff! Thanks for sharing it !
Dolomite

climber
Anchorage
  Nov 18, 2010 - 12:22pm PT
Awesome tr, thanks so much. If I had only one climbing trip left in me, the Dolomites are THE place.

Hoser

climber
vancouver
Author's Reply  Nov 18, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
Thanks,

I have now made three big trips to the dolo's, I think I have it reasonably figured out. This part of the trip with Mike was the first time I have ever had a car, the next part of the trip with Toby was also all on transit as were my previous two trips.

The dolos by bus are very easy,economical and allows one to enter and exit ranges where ever you may end up, staying in huts along the way.

IF anyone gets excited to go I would be happy to share some of my knowledge. Part 2 in the Brenta range turned out to be as succesful, I will post that up shortly.

Thanks for the kind words

Cheers
Bad Climber

climber
  Nov 18, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
So awesome. Has a mountain range ever been more inspiring for climbers? I may never go, but the lust is there.

Keep posting, please!

BAd
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Nov 18, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
Absolutely GREAT trip report; this is why I keep coming back to this website.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Nov 18, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
Thanks for posting this cool TR and great pics. Looks like another wonderful place where I would like to climb someday.
telemon01

Trad climber
Montana
  Nov 19, 2010 - 12:00am PT

wow..good one!
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
  Nov 19, 2010 - 12:23am PT
Really magical...thanks!

-JelloLovesGoodLimestone
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Nov 19, 2010 - 12:40am PT
hey there hoser.... say, wow! love the dolomites... (course, i never been there) ;)

but sure do love hearing and seeing about it...
thanks for the share...


*wow, and a hey there to jello--we are seeing more of you now! ...
this is YEAR to run into more jello, for sure!
:))
freerider

climber
  Nov 19, 2010 - 07:15am PT
amazing tr... good to see you had good fun!
now waiting for the next round!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Nov 30, 2010 - 07:36pm PT

Killer TR, really great pics. Steeeeeeeeep stone!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 30, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
Dolomites is now on the list.
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
  Nov 30, 2010 - 08:01pm PT
GORGEOUS!
Sologuy

climber
  Dec 2, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
What a great trip & photo's!!!
drunkfox

Trad climber
Cortina d'Ampezzo - Dolomites - Italy
  Dec 3, 2010 - 01:17am PT
Great photos, this is the place where i live!
Bad Acronym

climber
Little Death Hollow
  Dec 3, 2010 - 01:30am PT
Christ, that's spectacular!
Borut

Mountain climber
Ljubljana, Slovenia
  Nov 12, 2012 - 12:30am PT
TFPU
Great report!

I met Mike as he visited Slovenia. We climbed a line together. Great dude!

Borut
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Nov 11, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
Thanks for posting/bumping. Great TR.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
  Nov 13, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
I sooo want to go there!
Manny

Social climber
tempe
  Aug 12, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Excellent TR and great climbing. I'm heading there this September.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Aug 12, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Bellissimo! Molto grazie!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Aug 12, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
Nice one Hoser, never saw this one before.

What a place, wow!

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 12, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
XXX mountain porn.

Way to handle yourself out on your own, too. It musta been a bitch hauling all your gear when your ride left.
DanaB

climber
CT
  Aug 12, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
We had a very differen experience. We did the Comici Route on the Cima Grande and the Cassin Route on on the Cima Ovest by ourselves, but there were about six parties on the Yellow Edge. That ceratinly didn't detract from the climb - great route.
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