Trip Report
Devil's Golf Ball (Happy Turk) (5.8, C1) (Photo TR)
Wednesday January 9, 2013 6:03pm
Dad beneath Devil's Golf Ball.
Dad beneath Devil's Golf Ball.
Credit: PellucidWombat

This has got to be the shortest route that I've written a trip report about, but what Happy Turk lacks in length, it makes up for in concentrated fun!

November 10, 2012

Today was the first day of my week-long trip to Moab to climb with my good friend Dirk. My dad came down for the first weekend. Unfortunately the weather was forecast to be bad Saturday, so we did a good 'bad weather' climb - the bolt ladder on Devil's Golf Ball. This was the first time my dad has seen any aid climbing. It also threw a few curve balls at us, but in the end we prevailed. Thanks, Dirk, for the patient belay while I struggled with the surprises!





Kane Valley cottonwoods in the fall.


DENIED. We had hoped to drive Dirk's truck up to the base of the formation to access the first bolt. Unfortunately the road has been closed for restoration!


Devil's Golf Ball aka. Happy Turk.

Supposedly there is a 5.8 route on this thing, but I think that must be some kind of sick joke. On MountainProject I had seen the route rated C1 5.8, so perhaps the 5.8 rating is for the unexpected free moves that I encountered . . .


Devil's Golf Ball aka. Happy Turk seen from the side. (by Dirk Summers)




Dad at the base of Devil's Golf Ball aka. Happy Turk.

We brought along tent poles and duct tape to fashion a long stick clip, but fortunately there was already a long metal pole left at the base. It provided a convenient mount for me to add my homemade cheater stick.


Looking up at the route. That first bolt is pretty high up there . . .


Preparing the ultimate pole-assisted stick clip. (by Dirk Summers)


The look says it all


WallNut getting ready for the stick clip (name courtesy of Rachel Farrand!). I found this little guy in a patch of snow at the base of Washington Column in March and took him up the South Face with me. He has remained my aid climbing mascot since then.


The ultimate stick clip ready to go.

The wind had picked up and it had started to snow, but no matter. However, the first clip took us a while to get right as the first bolt has no hanger, just a small link that kept clipping away from the stick clip.



Attempting to stick clip. The bolts had small chain links instead of hangers on them, so this was very difficult. (by Jay Thomas)



Dirk giving the dirty work a try. In the end we found the way to do it was I stood at this location where I could see the link and 'biner opening and I instructed Dirk as to the twist and height adjustments to make.


Success!



WallNut & the pole clip. (by Jay Thomas)


The pole clip awaiting an ascent.

We had planned for me to run up the route real fast, and then Dirk would take a turn at leading. Unfortunately the route proved to be a LOT harder than I had expected, so I took a long time to get to the top. Fortunately, Dirk had a warm jacket and was a very patient belayer despite the unpleasant conditions. Hopefully I put on an entertaining show!


Hanging off this bolt on the overhanging bulge caused some strange swinging. (by Jay Thomas)



Aider dance moves. The photo makes this look more awkward than it was :-)(by Jay Thomas)




Climbing up to the first bolt. (by Jay Thomas)


Battle of the bulge, Part I. I learned here how much more difficult it is to climb a bolt ladder on an overhanging bulge than a pure overhang. (by Jay Thomas)


Battle of the bulge, Part I. (by Jay Thomas)




Battle of the bulge, Part I, experimenting with 2 aiders. (by Jay Thomas)


Final awkward moves to tension up on the bolt. I removed the second ladder once I got high enough to use a quick clip because it was still attached to my daisy in a way that I couldn't remove for reaching up to clip the next bolt. I fixed this for later bolts. (by Jay Thomas)


The next 2 bolts were much easier. Then there was an unexpected free move on loose rock to reach the next bolt (a surprise on soft rock in my tennis shoes). At least it was only about class 4.


Battle of the Bulge Part II - On Bolt #4, thinking I am in the free & clear. (by Jay Thomas)



Battle of the Bulge Part II - Bolt 5 was tricky but worked out, but the last bolt had me stymied. (by Jay Thomas)


Battle of the Bulge Part II - Stymied trying to reach the last bolt, which you can see in this picture above the bulge and left of my head. My current high bolt was still slightly underneath the outermost part of the bulge. (by Jay Thomas)

I high stepped as best as I could, but the last bolt was still barely out of reach. In the end I had to tension up on my current bolt, snag a reachy & shallow pocket with two fingers, and hold that just long enough to grab a draw and clip it to the next bolt. After this, I had another unexpected free section that was hard enough to reach that I had to disconnect from an aid ladder to finish to the top. A small cam here could have been nice in a horizontal crack, but it is OK, just some sandy friction moves.


On the top at last! After an hour spent hanging, these were the hardest 6 bolts I have ever aid climbed. This route is much harder than the LeConte Boulder bolt ladder. (by Jay Thomas)


Summit Buddha. The first of many to be found on this trip.


Dad beneath Devil's Golf Ball. The snow had stopped, but the sun was setting, so it was time to grab beer & burgers at Eddie McStiffs!

Unfortunately it was getting dark and my Dad and Dirk had lost interest in any more climbing on the route, so we got out of there for the day. Although Dirk missed out on this bizarre adventure, I made it up to him during some long belays later in the trip :-)





So I was quite surprised to find out how difficult it is to climb over bulges on aid, and even that overhanging techniques don't really work. After getting pretty smooth at overhanging bolt ladders, and after playing around on Happy Turk, I think I have an idea of how one approaches these differently, and have put together some quick diagrams below showing my thoughts. I'm happy to get any feedback from the aid masters out there in terms of illustrating these techniques, or if there are better ways to overcome these obstacles!


In the diagrams below, the red arrows indicate reactions against the climber (e.g. aid ladder on the feet, bolt on the pulling hand). The green arrow indicates the tendency of the body to move that the climber needs to overcome, blue arrow is roughly the center of mass of the climber. Red limbs are those pressing and yellow limbs are those pulling.

Aid Climbing an Overhang


1 - Unstable position, so the climber will swing.



2 - Stable position.



3 - Right leg is levering off the wall, or possibly pressing if there are features.



4 - Pulling up on bolt while standing in the aider, levering the right leg on the wall to help resist the tendency to overturn. Spreading the left leg out left takes some strain off of the arms and abdominals.



5 - Stemming between aiders (possibly assisted on the right leg by pressing off the wall), to gradually move weight over and beneath the next bolt while standing up towards it. Tendency is to swing towards either the last or next bolt depending on position, which needs to be controlled to unfasten from the last bolt while fastening in to the next bolt.




Aid Climbing a Bulge


1 - Unstable position, so the climber will swing.




2 - Stable position.



3 - Right leg is levering off the wall, or possibly pressing if there are features.



4 FAIL - Single ladder overhang technique does not work too well! If you bend in towards the current bolt to reach towards the next bolt, it is VERY strenuous on the abdominals and pulling arm. This might work for short reaches, but for long ones this might not work, or would be inefficient. Also, keep in mind in this picture how the lower leg would lever off the rock if I assumed it couldn't overlap the rock profile. This would be much more awkward and much harder to lever against.



4 - 2 ladders make a big difference. By stemming between them (and possibly levering off the wall with the knee or thigh), the climber need not pull nearly as hard on the bolt and can stand more straight up from a drop-knee position before reaching forward.



5 - Success!





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PellucidWombat
About the Author
PellucidWombat is a mountain climber from Berkeley, CA.

Comments
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crunch

Social climber
CO
  Jan 9, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
Yeah! Full conditions, for sure.

Woohoo!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Jan 9, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
Great writing, way to make the best of a crap day.

What's the next installment about?
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 9, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
I might do a couple more of some select favorites from that trip (3 Penguins, Dark Angel, Washerwoman) or some older ones I've had on the backburner (Curtis Ridge failure on Rainier was interesting).
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
  Jan 9, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
The reader (me) is led to believe you and walnut completed SFWC, how come no TR?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 9, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
Way to SHRED THE GNAR!!!!!

That has to be one of the highest photograph: vertical foot climbed ratio ever seen on the taco!!!

Thanks Mark, great as usual!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 9, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Gettin after it on a sh:t day way to go. That thing looks cool. Your dad and Jeremy's mom said so.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Jan 9, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
Your diagram man is holding his balls in half the images. Is he scared?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 9, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Diagram man also seems to like balls dangeling in front of his face.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 10, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Were some of those how to diagrams lifted from the boobs thread?

Nice work!
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:08am PT
The reader (me) is led to believe you and walnut completed SFWC, how come no TR?

Last spring, but there was no story too interesting to report there, and there are already so many nice reports out there on it, so it is low priority for TRs to do. Maybe once/if I get caught up with other reports of less well traveled routes that I think people would find more interesting. I still haven't even gotten around to Mithril Dihedral (car-to-car), Fishhook Arete, Sun Ribbon Arete (carryover to practice for Tetons), Cirque of the Towers (esp. War Bonnett NE Face), etc. :-)

Diagram man also seems to like balls dangeling in front of his face.

I was thinking those diagrammatic bolts looked more like Christmas tree ornaments. Maybe I should replace those with donuts to make the images more family friendly? ;-)
TruckeeTrustafari

Social climber
GLACIER WAY
  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:08am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#283129
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 11, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
Wasn't ever necessary, but it sure was funny. When Superman offers you a lift, who can say 'no'?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:40am PT
my kind of fun
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Dude, you've outdone yourself this time. Stuck inside for a while?

Edit: As one who has never dedicated time to flailing around on aid ladders to figure out what works and what doesn't, I learned something from your mini kinematics lesson while cracking up. I'm sure many here like me benefit from your OCD!

;)
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Studying for the PE sucks. So does gym cardio since I don't have enough daylight to get out on my bike for now. Must . . . fight . . . cabin fever! :-D
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Do you study while doing cardio? I worked for a company where the CEO used to do cardio at 3:30am while reading sales forecasts and account summaries.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Straight up bitchin' man!

Obscure little bumps are even better than the big prize sometimes.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
Author's Reply  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
I wish I could do cardio while working on other things, but I like to work continuously at an intensity where I can't do anything but focus on the exercise at hand (90% of my MHR, or about 180bpm). I see a knee surgery looming in my future for next winter, so then I'll probably be doing a lot of low intensity exercise on a stationary bike. Too bad I can't coordinate my PE with that!
Prod

Trad climber
  Jan 10, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Now I know how to climb a giants' boob. Thanks.

Also, fun TR.

Prod.
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
  Jan 10, 2013 - 03:00pm PT

Very entertaining, and somewhat educational... : D

Thanks for sharing... and spending the time to make those diagrams. haha
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jan 10, 2013 - 03:01pm PT
looks like it could teeter over any time!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 10, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
I love the "Face says it all" photo, Mark. What I see is a man feeling half-giddy with his solution, half-guilty at the contrivance of it :)

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jan 10, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Sweet!
diggler

Trad climber
Frisco, CA
  Jan 10, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
You could put that thing on the cover of some awesome coffee table book! Good job, & a notable demonstration of perserverence!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 11, 2013 - 12:50am PT
My brother always tells me to be ware of the short ones. Definately looks true in this case. Has it been free clibed? Definately needs to be sieged, possibly doing live feeds from wall er I mean ball for the attempt.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Jan 17, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Has it been free climbed?
It's (ffa) all yours!
eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
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