On the Lamb 5.9

 
  • Currently 4.0/5
Search
Go

Lamb Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Definitely were on it.
Wednesday August 10, 2011 6:10pm
We got on the trail and contoured right since we wanted to reverse the route. We started going up the slabs a little early and ended up climbing (and then rappelling) some pretty gnarly un-climbed stuff. We back tracked, went around a bit further and found the easy 2nd and 3rd class slabs that lead you to the end of the climb. It is easier to find the end of the route than the start (most forum discussions are climbers missing the start of the route); if you have not done this route before, you will have an easier time reversing the climb.
Pitch 1: Once we found the tree, it was easy to see the features and get on the horizontal crack. The climbing is very unique, fun, and exposed with spectacular views. We set up a belay past Sleeper (5.9R) but before (the poor stance) recommended belay.
Following on P1 (the last pitch in the topo (reversed))
Following on P1 (the last pitch in the topo (reversed))
Credit: anilk

Pitch 2: The crack looks pretty thin from the end of pitch-1 but it gets better once you’re on it. The 5.9 poor feet section is better if you run it out. Once you go past the crux and start seeing good feet, you can fire in a piece. This section is pumpy but you can shake out once you get to the 5.7 juggy section with really good feet. It is possible to set up a belay here instead of down climbing 10’ to use the bolts; the bolted belay has worse feet than than the 5.7 section with jugs.

Pitch 3: Fun to climb since we were past the pumpy crux pitch and it is also easy to protect with small cams and nuts.
Job following P2 (5.9 slabby traverse)
Job following P2 (5.9 slabby traverse)
Credit: anilk

After pitch-3 we down climbed the 5.5 R and got to the ledge where two trees and a bush are shown (at the start of the route). The two trees are gone. You can see the “cave”, but it is more similar to a large sloping flake than a cave; easy to miss if you are just starting the climb. Here, we again down climbed to get to the anchors for Five-Ten You Wuss and rapped from there with four rappels to the ground. There are multiple rap anchors, some of them look very new. Rappelling was definitely the slowest part of the day and least fun. We found the trail back to the car with no problem.
Half-Dome in very distant background.
Half-Dome in very distant background.
Credit: anilk

We could have down climbed the 4th class but we opted not to because it looked mungy and a bit loose. If you start from the end of the route and there are not too many parties on it, try to reverse it. The time to climb 3 pitches along with the descent down the 2nd and 3rd class is probably equal to the time it takes to down climb 4th class at the other end or rap the route. You can swap leads on the pitches that you followed, so that’s an added bonus.

Overall, a must-do climb.



  Trip Report Views: 1,153
anilk
About the Author
Anil and Job are trad. climbers who crawled out of the subcontinent living in the bay area.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
  Aug 10, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
Double Trip Report. Best lunch break reading material. Thanks for sharing this, too!

Way to get after it. On the Lamb is, by far, the most unique and exciting 5.8 in Tuolumne. Glad someone was able to identify the "cave". ;)

Looking forward to the next write up. You guys rock.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 10, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
We were just talking about this climb at the Boulder HH the other night. I still haven't got on it and can't wait! Thanks for sharing.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Aug 10, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
Whoo hoo!!!!! More pics, pleeeeeese!!!!!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
  Aug 10, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
Glad you guys had a good time, I see you took Dave Yerians advice and started from the right. We met you guys in the parking lot that morning. You looked cool from our view point over on N Wizz Dome and on our walk back to the car.
Peace
nouveau

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Aug 10, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Dave Yerian's beta was key. I think we would have had a lot of trouble finding the start of the route had we tried going about it from left to right. Thanks a lot.
anilk

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 10, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
Thanks Ron and Dave! we were lucky to run into you at the parking lot. Your beta helped us stay the course :)
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
  Aug 10, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
We were stoked for you guys, Dave is the cool man, always willing to help a climber out, actually always willing to help a person out!
Peace
Zander

climber
  Aug 10, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
Looks like fun!
Z
blackbird

Trad climber
the flat water trails...
  Aug 11, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
Sweet, and stoked you guys had fun!

TFPU!

BB
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 11, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
Awesome TFPU!
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Lamb Dome - On the Lamb 5.9 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The awesome traversing line of On the Lamb.
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Lamb Dome
Lamb Dome - Carpet Crawler 5.10a R/X - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Carpet Crawler, 5.10a R/X
Lamb Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Lamb Dome - Tectonomagmatic 5.10b - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Tectonomagmatic, 5.10b
Lamb Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Lamb Dome - Five Ten, You Wuss 5.10d - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Five Ten, You Wuss, 5.10d
Lamb Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Five Ten, You Wus is route C
Lamb Dome - Sleeper 5.9 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Sleeper, 5.9 R
Lamb Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Sleeper is route E
Lamb Dome - Jailbreak 5.9 R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click for details.
Jailbreak, 5.9 R
Lamb Dome
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Jailbreak is route G.
More routes on Lamb Dome