Dark Star 5.10b

 
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Temple Crag


High Sierra, California USA


Trip Report
Dark Star June 2012

by KBG
Saturday September 1, 2012 5:56pm
We climbed Dark Star at the end of June 2012. The summer of 2012 had very little snow and so approaches and descents were not complicated by the addition of snow or ice. The route was really fun. The best climbing is in the first 8 pitches up the main headwall. There are 2 5.10 cruxes you face during these pitches and they are both really fun and not incredibly awkward or strenuous. In particular the 5.10a on pitch 3 includes some great finger locks.

We were nervous about route finding considering that most of the previous parties did not find the correct start to the route, but we were able to locate the correct dihedral.

Bobby checking out the topo the evening before our climb
Bobby checking out the topo the evening before our climb
Credit: KBG

Credit: KBG

Some info on how to find the first pitch
Some info on how to find the first pitch
Credit: KBG

There are a few fixed pins at the top of the first couple pitches then...
There are a few fixed pins at the top of the first couple pitches then they all disappear
Credit: KBG

You can see Bobby in the actual chimney hear. It's true that it looks ...
You can see Bobby in the actual chimney hear. It's true that it looks intimidating, but it opens way up inside and is quite easy.
Credit: KBG

Snack time for me at the top of the first headwall
Snack time for me at the top of the first headwall
Credit: KBG

Lots of simul-climbing on the ridge!!
Lots of simul-climbing on the ridge!!
Credit: KBG

We skipped the first set of rappels and just downclimbed the section w...
We skipped the first set of rappels and just downclimbed the section without any problem. However, we found it better to rappel the second set than downclimb. I tried to sketch out a topo for the rappels b/c it's a bit confusing.
Credit: KBG

Overall ~11 hours on the route. The simul-climbing the ridge really felt like it was taking forever, so bring a good mental game with you. A really fun climb overall, with nothing too burly or physical to deal with.

  Trip Report Views: 1,173
KBG
About the Author
KBG is a climber from CA.

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Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Sep 1, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
Cool, man! Good to hear some other feedback. We just did it ourselves. I thought pitch 3 was the better pitch of the entire outing. Also, we found the rap situation different than the available topos, so thanks for putting up the current status.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Sep 1, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
nice TR -- I will file this one away for future reference!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Jan 22, 2013 - 10:58am PT
A definate wanna do!
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Temple Crag - Dark Star 5.10b - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from Second Lake.
Photo: Ryan Crochiere
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The route as seen from Second Lake.
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The route as seen from Second Lake.